Rigging pics

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Mesh pocket in the hatch is great. Attaches with velcro so you can easily remove it. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Webs-Tackle-Black-Large/dp/B00JURUDQ0/

Bungee to hold hatch lid closed is also really useful. Some people use a round button instead of a hook, but I think the hook is a bit more secure. https://www.amazon.com/YYST-Paddle-Keeper-Bungee-Holder/dp/B01H2XB18W/

The bungy is a good mod, I did the same with Velcro which isnt holding up w saltwater exposure

The stock straps/clips are fine when you’re sitting in fine weather but when things get challenging you can’t be fumbling with feeding a strap through a clip etc

Especially if you are stowing gear in rough conditions you need a quick way to open and secure, Ive had a few experiences along those lines and it ain’t fun depending on your taste in fun

If I keep my 575 I’ll do another mod just for that kind of situation

How I rigged my 555

How the hatch screws lined up worked perfectly with the ram ball that I had.  I tweaked the eye to fit on some other existing screws.  The little access hatch inside the hull has a plastic bung.  I found it to be useless for inserting the FF cables.  the next best thing I came up with was a Prosecco wine bottle cork.  I drilled a hole through the center slightly larger than the cable, then I cut an access slot in the side of the cork. I then worked the cable through it. I zip tied it tight, and trimmed excess cork to make it fit. 

I converted the non retractable rudder to a rear retractable one.

Hey Gents- I was going to start a new topic but saw Spiffy had started a perfect place to offer up this idea: nearly 100% of my outings involve a beach launch and landing. For me its been a bit sketchy to control at launch and also drag out of the surf zone especially when weighted down and with warn out noodle arms at the end of a long day using the drag handle. Ive even lost contact with the kayak several times not being able to capture the handle in rough surf. Ive used a bow line in the past but never loved a free wheeling rope dangling off the bow in times when best efforts to land smoothly end up…upside down and Im sloshing around like a turtle in the surf. Ive even witnessed others get tangled up in rope and it aint pretty at best. I decided to give this a try and it really made a huge difference both during launch and land. Its also way safer having it run snug along the deck keeping it secure and well away from any arms or legs. It really helps to get out of the surf zone quickly and while waiting for the lull at launch better than the drag handle alone. Hope all is well with everyone and you’re off to a great season. 

Cool Im happy you find it a useful idea to consider or do your own take on it. Most important for me was efficiency, strength and safety. So far so good. Congrats and great luck with your 460.

One other mentionable…Deck line of any kind can be a invitation to snag a hook. There may come the occasion that I curse having a rope slug across the deck. Whatever you come up with just try to keep aware of the potential hassle. For the most part I think its avoidable yet inevitable Cheers

I converted the non retractable rudder to a rear retractable one.

Very cool. Is that a DIY job?

On the Hobie AI, there is a thin plastic rudder pin that takes a ton of abuse and can fail, even when inspected regularly. It's a major PITA to replace it on the water--impossible under rough conditions. It's sort of a sacrificial part that is supposed to prevent damage to the rear of the boat, but I always think there has got to be a better way. The mounting system that you've set up just might be it...

Thanks for posting this thread, love em ideas...

Most important for me was efficiency, strength and safety.

This +1

thinking some type of Wx resistant tubing over the rope , might not stop a bad hook set but at least slow it down

Spot on I was considering the same thing…I set mine up with spare supplies…at the time if I the tubing I would have added it. You’ve inspired me thanks for the sharing the idea.

I converted the non retractable rudder to a rear retractable one.

Very cool. Is that a DIY job?

On the Hobie AI, there is a thin plastic rudder pin that takes a ton of abuse and can fail, even when inspected regularly. It's a major PITA to replace it on the water--impossible under rough conditions. It's sort of a sacrificial part that is supposed to prevent damage to the rear of the boat, but I always think there has got to be a better way. The mounting system that you've set up just might be it...

A combo of DIY and bought parts.  I got them from a Port Gamble Kayak shop: Olympic Outdoor Center. I can't to their website right now, but the rudder is the larger of the two they carry.    You will need the correct gudgeon (end piece) for your yak's stern.  The SS cable guides I used were switch over rubber gromits which were not going to work.  The SS guides are really for making a corner in a wire fence in a  4" x 4".  They come in a pack of 20 and are not expensive. About $.50 each  The line is currently left over line I had for replacing on my Hobie Quest's rudder, so I used that, but I see switching to SS cable is in the future.  I aimed for SS where ever possible.  The plug in the original rudder hole is a furniture plastic plug made by Hillman sold at Lowes. About $2.00. I hope that helps.

How I rigged my 555

SkidderK: where/how do your FF cable exit the hull to get to the FF unit?