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Topic: Water in the main hull  (Read 7714 times)

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bluekayak

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Clever

Especially the magnet part

I was thinking about attaching the existing cables to longer ones and pull them through, then push housings over those and thread some kind of reinforced ends like at the ends of bike cable housings, then epoxy those in place

If someone explains how to upload video here I can put up one of the leak from inside the rudder well


oldfart

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I think most people upload the video to YouTube and pozt a link to it.
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wizz

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Blue kayak,

I wonder if you could abandon the cable housings, and run new ones. I needed to add steering cables to my eddyline and it was pretty easy considering the area inside the hull has inaccessible areas.

That’s the problem, the space the cables run through is inaccessible unless I do what Brett suggested and cut an access hole in the hull, which then has to be patched somehow

Be interested to know what you did w yours, if it was a similar situation

I thought maybe use the existing cables to string new housing and glass it with some kind of reinforcements at both ends

I believe on the newer ones they did a better design, reinforced where cables exit the hull

Mine took water in the outer hull from the start, and then the rudder cables sawed through the glass and the cable housing in a few short years
I dropped my dirtbike on my 525 while moving the bike in the storage, put a massive crack and hole in it. Sean Morley fixed it and it’s been spot on and you’d never know looking at it. He can fix your problem. I got his info from the Kayak shop in Oakland, I might have his number still if you need it.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2020, 11:30:19 PM by wizz »
"The howling tide of unreason beats against pure fact with incredible fury"-Terrence Mckenna


Mark L

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Blue kayak,

I wonder if you could abandon the cable housings, and run new ones. I needed to add steering cables to my eddyline and it was pretty easy considering the area inside the hull has inaccessible areas.



That’s the problem, the space the cables run through is inaccessible unless I do what Brett suggested and cut an access hole in the hull, which then has to be patched somehow

Be interested to know what you did w yours, if it was a similar situation

I thought maybe use the existing cables to string new housing and glass it with some kind of reinforcements at both ends

I believe on the newer ones they did a better design, reinforced where cables exit the hull

Mine took water in the outer hull from the start, and then the rudder cables sawed through the glass and the cable housing in a few short years
I dropped my dirtbike on my 525 while moving the bike in the storage, put a massive crack and hole in it. Sean Morley fixed it and it’s been spot on and you’d never know looking at it. He can fix your problem. I got his info from the Kayak shop in Oakland, I might have his number still if you need it.

I took a surf zone, and rolling class with Sean. He is located in Fairfax, and here is his website:

https://www.riverandocean.com/
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wizz

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Blue kayak,

I wonder if you could abandon the cable housings, and run new ones. I needed to add steering cables to my eddyline and it was pretty easy considering the area inside the hull has inaccessible areas.



That’s the problem, the space the cables run through is inaccessible unless I do what Brett suggested and cut an access hole in the hull, which then has to be patched somehow

Be interested to know what you did w yours, if it was a similar situation

I thought maybe use the existing cables to string new housing and glass it with some kind of reinforcements at both ends

I believe on the newer ones they did a better design, reinforced where cables exit the hull

Mine took water in the outer hull from the start, and then the rudder cables sawed through the glass and the cable housing in a few short years
I dropped my dirtbike on my 525 while moving the bike in the storage, put a massive crack and hole in it. Sean Morley fixed it and it’s been spot on and you’d never know looking at it. He can fix your problem. I got his info from the Kayak shop in Oakland, I might have his number still if you need it.

I took a surf zone, and rolling class with Sean. He is located in Fairfax, and here is his website:

https://www.riverandocean.com/
Super Talented paddler, nice guy. 
"The howling tide of unreason beats against pure fact with incredible fury"-Terrence Mckenna


tedski

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Blue kayak,

I wonder if you could abandon the cable housings, and run new ones. I needed to add steering cables to my eddyline and it was pretty easy considering the area inside the hull has inaccessible areas.



That’s the problem, the space the cables run through is inaccessible unless I do what Brett suggested and cut an access hole in the hull, which then has to be patched somehow

Be interested to know what you did w yours, if it was a similar situation

I thought maybe use the existing cables to string new housing and glass it with some kind of reinforcements at both ends

I believe on the newer ones they did a better design, reinforced where cables exit the hull

Mine took water in the outer hull from the start, and then the rudder cables sawed through the glass and the cable housing in a few short years
I dropped my dirtbike on my 525 while moving the bike in the storage, put a massive crack and hole in it. Sean Morley fixed it and it’s been spot on and you’d never know looking at it. He can fix your problem. I got his info from the Kayak shop in Oakland, I might have his number still if you need it.

I took a surf zone, and rolling class with Sean. He is located in Fairfax, and here is his website:

https://www.riverandocean.com/

Looks like he retired from paddlesports consulting and retail.  Not sure if that also includes repairs and what not.  Seems like a loss for the paddlesports community either way.
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Chockersetter

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As far as access goes I installed a small hatch with threaded hatch cover, six inch. If you have enough flat area where it needs to be you might think about an eight inch as it is easier to work in, your arm or hand.


bluekayak

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Wizz

I believe Sean is the guy I talked to a few years back about this and memory is he retired from doing repairs, but if you PM his contact info I’ll call and beg him to fix the thing

If it was a straight repair I might try it myself but is a little more complicated than that

Our surfboards take hits and we have good glass repair guys but nobody wants to mess with a yak

Anyone knows someone doing this kind of work post their contact info I have a job for them


SuperFly

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101 Surf Sports offers a repair service. I can't vouch for the repairs, but it's a great shop.
https://101surfsports.com/index.php/kayaking-san-francisco/kayak-services/kayak-repair


FLYAKER65

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Heyo All- Happy New Year!
Thanks for all the feedback/info sharing. I wanted to follow up after doing the water fill test: Good and bad news for me.

Good news is my Rudder shaft and Live well inlet/outlet remained bone dry :)

Bad news BOTH of my Venturi Scuppers in the footwells are where the main problem is happening.

Another problem was revealed by doing the water fill: Water filled into the main hull was leaching thru the lining of my fish hold. Luckily directly under hatch opening and not up toward the bow.

Dont get me wrong here: Im not very happy to have these problems but
I’ll discuss them with Brett and will reach out to 101 Surf Sports for a
So Cal referral. Otherwise I’m on my own. Not exactly the type of repairs I’d elect to attempt as a newbie to fiberglass. 
Honestly I expected so issues but these are pretty major things. I just need to do a solid repair and hopefully avoid a high cost shop if possible but if necessary so be it....I just want to fix the troubles and paddle without worry.

Thanks again for all the input  :)
If anyone cares I’ll update how the repairs go.
Cheers!


SuperFly

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Didn't realize you're in Socal. I'd check with www.oceanpaddlesports.com. They should be able to refer you to someone who specializes in fixing fiberglass/carbon paddlecraft closer to you.

You'll likely need to get replacement footwell pads and venturi covers for the scupper holes from Stealth or seasherpa.com.au. They'll probably need to be removed for repair access.

Is there a hairline crack in the bottom of the fish hatch? Don't see how else water could leak in that way, unless there was a bubble or larger void in the epoxy during molding. Either way it should be a simple repair if you marked the location of the trouble spot.


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Uncle Pat has a ding repair shop at Princeton Harbor.

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Sin Coast

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I thought maybe I wanted another Stealth after selling mine in 2019. This thread and a few other stories kinda changed my mind.
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wizz

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I thought maybe I wanted another Stealth after selling mine in 2019. This thread and a few other stories kinda changed my mind.
That’s a bit silly honestly. The internet magnifies, these are the only problems like this I’ve heard about and stealth groups have kayakers from Australia, Europe, texas, florida, Panama, etc. things that are manufactured will always have a few that are fuck ups, it’s inevitable   the internet can make it seem like these inevitable few are way more than it is, and amplified anecdotes.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2021, 12:58:31 PM by wizz »
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FLYAKER65

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Thanks Superfy-

I appreciate the input. I’m comfortable overall to deal with it but before I do anything I’ll get a pro repair shop to have a look so to do a proper fix. I’m not too concerned in whats involved and chalking it up to stuff happens. It doesnt change my lovin’ this kayak one bit. I’ll share it with Brett and see what he makes of it. Meantime I can still get out and enjoy the ride. I’m not trying raise big concerns to others because I think my issues are rare and can be repaired and forgotten about. I just want and need to sort it out asap and start posting the everything else that is awesome about the boat.
It may be a minute to get it done so I’ll get back as it makes sense.
Hope all else is good.