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Messages - pmmpete

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 29
1
Last friday I flipped my kayak about 200ft from the alameda ramp. Stupid rookie mistake.. does anybody know anybody who can help me get my retrieve my two fishing poles ? id pay a handsome reward if somebody is able to snag my fishing poles please PM if you can help.
This might be an appropriate time to do a search of this forum and the NWKA forum for posts which use the term "Leash."

2
In the "Recent Topics" window on the left side of this page, this thread appears as "Help retrieving lost fish . . . ," and I thought, well yes, I certainly wish there was a way to retrieve all of the fish that I've lost over the years.

3
General Talk / Re: Kayak SF to Hawaii
« on: May 28, 2021, 03:22:47 PM »
Thanks for posting this, Bdon, I'm going to follow the trip as well.

Ed GIllet kayaked to Hawaii in 1987 in a much less fancy kayak. See https://explorersweb.com/2020/12/28/top-expeditions-1970-2020-5-ed-gillet-kayaks-to-hawaii/.  He almost died, but he made it.  I always wondered, how did Ed perform bowel movements during his trip? I suspect that Cyril has some kind of nifty arrangements for that in the cabin behind the cockpit of his kayak.

4
I hope he was able to catch some fish to eat while he was lost. But it appears that he's a lousy hiker, so he may also be a lousy angler.

5
I have a Hobie Revolution.  For long line and downrigger trolling, I mount my rod on the left gunwale of my kayak with the tip pointing to the right, so the rod crosses the centerline of my kayak, and I position it so the rod is a couple of inches behind my left toe when my left pedal is all of the way back.  With the rod in this position, I can easily monitor the tip of the rod for strikes, I can quickly grab the rod out of its holder when I get a strike, I don't have to reach out to the side of my kayak when taking the rod out of it's holder, which unbalances the kayak, and because the reel's handle is facing me I can crank in line when the rod is in the rod holder. In addition, the butt of the rod hangs over the left side of my kayak, and isn't in the way of anything.  I don't like to use extenders which raise the rod holder up above the gunwale, and mount my rod holder as low as possible on the gunwale.

Scotty Gearhead rod holder bases are fine for mounting gear on a gear track which isn't under any stress, such as a fish finder, but Gearheads are a poor choice for mounting a trolling rod holder, because they constantly twist under the tension of the rod, so you have to keep correcting the orientation of your rod holder.  The problem is bad enough when the rod is pointing to the right, and thus is tightening the Gearhead, but the problem is severe if the rod is pointing to the left, because the tension on the rod will loosen the Gearhead.  For a description of a DIY rod holder base which holds the rod holder in a fixed orientation, see https://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=13167.msg144750#msg144750.

6
General Fishing Tips / Re: Anchor wizard to downrigger conversion??
« on: May 04, 2021, 12:00:24 AM »
The best thing to use as a downrigger is a downrigger.  Forget about trying to use an Anchor Wizard as a downrigger.  For some general thoughts about how to set up your kayak for downrigger trolling, and an explanation of how to downrigger troll from a kayak, see my post at https://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12575.0.

7
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Re: Reel recommendations needed
« on: May 03, 2021, 09:39:08 PM »
Pmmpete,
How did you DYI the counter balance?  Im interested in the Trax 300.  Also do you have a rod of preference with the reel?
If you want to buy a baitcaster reel for jigging, I wouldn't buy a Tranx, because Shimano doesn't make a counterbalanced power handle for that reel.  I'd buy a Daiwa Lexa, a Penn Squall, or some other baitcaster reel which comes with a counterbalanced power handle.

But if you have decided you want the Tranx 300, it's easy to add a counterbalance to the power handle without making any modifications to the reel, using a piece of aluminum stock and hardware which is available at any hardware store.  The counterbalance is held in place with a stainless flathead bolt which goes through one of the holes in the power handle and a nylock nut, with a nylon spacer.  A hole in the counterbalance arm fits over the nut on the end of the reel's shaft.  I used a big stainless hex bolt and some stainless washers for the counterbalance.  Take the power handle and counterbalance off the reel, stick a screwdriver through the hole, and add and subtract washers until the counterbalance weight balances the power handle.  It looks a bit rednecky, but works very well and is rock solid.

I prefer fairly stiff jigging rods. My favorite jigging rods for lake trout, lings, and other potentially large fish are a pair of 6'6" Ugly Stik Tiger Elite Medium Heavy jigging-casting rods, one rated for 3/4 oz.-4 oz. lures, and the other rated for 4 oz.-7 oz. lures.  I like to jig with the butt of the rod in my armpit, and prefer a long butt so my rod hand is comfortably out in front of my chest when my thumb is on the baitcaster reel's spool release, rather than tucked back by my armpit, so I have lengthened the butts of both rods to 17" to 18" behind the reel.

8
General Fishing Tips / Re: keeping fishing rods ON the kayak?
« on: April 30, 2021, 03:07:48 PM »
I leash my rods to their rod holder with the smallest size of retractable dog leash, and leash my net in the same way.  If you attach the leash near any kind of reel, it'll tend to get hooked by and wound around the handle of the reel, but if you attach the leash in an appropriate place away from the reel, you won't even notice that it's there.  For jigging rods, I clip the leash to a small loop of Dyneema cord which I duct tape to the shaft of the rod about 6 inches in front of the reel.  For spinning reels, I clip the leash to a small loop of Dyneema cord installed on the end of the butt of the rod.  I attach the body of the leash to my rod holder, and leave it there permanently.  Retractable leashes are a lot cheaper at Walmart and other big box stores than they are at pet stores.

I recognize that any kind of leash creates an entanglement risk if you tip over your kayak, and carry a safety knife on my PFD so I can cut the leash if I get tangled in it.  When going in and out through surf, I bungie my rod horizontally in a paddle holder to the gunwale of my kayak, which should keep the rod strapped down to the kayak if I get dumped over.

I leash my various fishing tools to my rod holder and the base of my fish finder with small retractable fishing leashes, and then tuck the tools in the pockets on the gunwale of my Revolution.  Those retractable leashes are short enough that I don't think I could get tangled in them, even if a tool fell out of the pocket.  I keep half of the tools permanently leashed to my rod holder, and the other half attached to a loop of cord which I hang over the base of my fish finder.


9
General Talk / Re: Sleepy while driving
« on: April 29, 2021, 06:01:32 PM »
I tend to fall asleep really fast, which is not a safe tendency to have when you're driving.  Some years ago, I got up real early to go fishing, and when I was driving home at the end of the day I dozed off while driving, and woke up abruptly to find myself driving in the interstate median.  Fortunately it was a low angle median, and I was able to stop without crashing, and then drive back onto the road and continue.  But I was really lucky, because if I had fallen asleep in most places along that stretch of interstate, I would have had a serious crash.  That incident made me get really religious about monitoring my sleepiness when driving.  If I feel at all sleepy, I take a 15 minute power nap, which perks me right up.  I also carry soda with caffeine and caffeine pills, and chug some down as a preventative measure if I'm driving and think I might start getting sleepy.

10
Craftsmen's Corner / Re: Dropper loop tying jig
« on: April 27, 2021, 05:26:24 PM »
Based on your images, it looks like you have a jig tied at one end, a loop tied at the other and a dropper loop at some point in between.  Am I correct in seeing that you cut the dropper loop to have a single tag end for tying a hook?
No, you don't cut the loop in a twisted dropper loop. The two sides of the loop are twisted together, and look like a single line in my photo.  There are a number of Youtube videos which show how to tie a twisted dropper loop, such as

.

looks awesome, but also looks like it would be prone to fouling up no?
No, the twisted dropper is stiff enough to stand out very nicely from the rest of the leader, and with 20 pound leader I don't have any problem with getting the hook on the twisted dropper tangled up with the rest of the leader.  Another way of doing a lead jig/fly combo rig is to have the fly (or in my case the treble hook with a glow bead) on a separate shorter leader clipped into the same clip as the main leader.  I find that in that kind of rig, the fly leader does tend to get all tangled up with the main leader.


11
Craftsmen's Corner / Re: Dropper loop tying jig
« on: April 27, 2021, 09:29:10 AM »
Nice! I need to figure out how to adapt this idea for tying the twisted dropper loop rigs I use for lake trout fishing.

12
To maximize the quality of my fish, as soon as I catch a fish which I'm going to keep, I put it onto a stringer, bleed it for a couple of minutes, and put it on ice in a cooler.  If you leave fish in your rear cargo area, its quality will degrade quickly.  I've tried various softsided coolers, but prefer to strap a hardsided cooler in the rear cargo area of my Revolution.  A hardsided cooler holds a lot of fish and ice, it's easy to load fish into, and it's easy to clean out at the end of the trip.

When you put fish and ice into a cooler, the ice will quickly migrate to the bottom of the cooler, leaving the fish exposed to warmer conditions.  I put at least half of my ice in a mesh bag.  After I drop a fish into my cooler, I pick up the mesh bag and plop it down on top of the fish.

13
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Re: Reel recommendations needed
« on: April 08, 2021, 10:24:32 AM »
https://www.piscifun.com/collections/baitcasting-reel/products/piscifun-alijos-size-300-low-profile-baitcasting-reel-aluminum-frame-casting-reels

They are having an Easter sale (code EST16) so it was only $84. The YouTube reviews were really good and it has a full aluminum frame that other brands don't have at this price. It has a few gear ratio and handle options.

Gear ratios: There are two options with this reel: 5.9:1 and 8.1:1. For jigging for ling which would be most appropriate?

Either will work. They retrieve 26 and 36 inches of line per turn, respectively. I have spinning reels with those same rates and they both work fine. I suppose if you are fishing deep or reeling in a salmon that is swimming toward you the 8:1 would be better since you can bring in line faster. I went with the 5.9:1 since it might be a bit easier to reel in a big fish. I would be interested to her other folks opinions.
I do a lot of jigging on the bottom in depths between about 170 and 240 feet.  I find a fast retrieve rate to be desirable to get lures and fish up from that depth fast.  With a power handle, the faster retrieve rate isn't a disadvantage when winching up big fish.

The Piscifun reel has a power handle, which will make it easier to reel in big fish, but the handle isn't counterbalanced, which could be bad for jigging.  I bought a Shimano Tranx 300 reel with a non-counterbalanced power handle, and discovered that the lack of a counterbalance was very annoying and inconvenient.  The reel is a right hand crank reel, so you turn the handle clockwise to bring in line.  The lack of a counterbalance wasn't a problem when the handle was between 6:00 o'clock and 12:00 o'clock, but as soon as the handle went past 12:00 o'clock, it was heavy enough so it would flop down to 6:00 o'clock, reeling in a bunch of line.  Then I would need to drop my lure to get back into contact with the bottom.  It was a constant hassle.  Shimano doesn't make a counterbalanced handle for the Tranx, and I couldn't find a counterbalanced handle made by another manufacturer which would fit the Tranx, so I ended up making a DIY counterbalance.  Now the reel works great. The Daiwa Lexa and the Penn Squall come with counterbalanced power handles.

14
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Re: Reel recommendations needed
« on: April 07, 2021, 09:13:55 PM »
When jigging for big fish, I prefer a 300 or 400 sized baitcaster reel with a counterbalanced power handle.  I find the two-paddle handle found on most baitcaster reels to be inadequate for winching up big fish.

Ftbraggyakfish, if you'll be using the reel in the ocean, you need a reel which can handle the salt.  That may require you to pay more than the $135 you currently have budgeted.

15
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Leash your cell phone
« on: April 02, 2021, 05:10:51 PM »
I carry my cell phone in a pocket on my PFD.  The cell phone is water resistant, but I worried about dropping it into the water and losing it.  Then a friend lost his cell phone down an ice fishing hole, and I decided to get smart and put a leash on my phone.  I bought a couple of devices which you put between your phone and a cell phone case which have a little loop of webbing and a ring which stick out of the charging cord hole in the case, to provide a place to attach a leash.  And I bought a retractable lanyard.  I clip the retractable lanyard to a loop of cord tied around a shoulder strap of my PFD, and I attach the phone to the lanyard with a loop of spectra cord.  Now I feel a lot safer when I use my phone on the water.

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