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Topic: Oil can fix...  (Read 2749 times)

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Eddie

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I've car topped the Kraken for 5 years and I'm not a huge cincherdowner with the webbing straps but certainly tight.  I regret not cinching about 1 ft back all these years under the scupper posts.  There is a slight caving that I'm sure does not effect glide but I could be wrong.  I am tempted to make it right and have looked on the tube to get a gist.  Heat gun?  Dang...sounds melty, blow dryer(got plenty), I believe it's a little late in the game to expose to sun and allow it to reshape itself.  Anyone mess with reshaping the can? :smt006

It's hard to tell how subtle because there is a transition from bow to mid shape so the pics may look worse than it is...
« Last Edit: June 08, 2021, 08:48:03 AM by Eddie »
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
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Sailfish

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I would try to put some heavy weight  on top and pour hot water on the oil can area.
"Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass...it's about learning how to dance in the rain."


fishemotion

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Tinker

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The Hobie system works, but it's a butt-pain if you're doing it alone.  I'd try the hot - very hot - water and some weight first.


jkjhung

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Ive done both hot water and light heat gun while applying gentle pressure on the inside of the hull.  Both work.  Hot water is fool proof whereas heat gun takes a little more attention.  If I had to do it again I'd probably just go straight for the heat gun and turn it on low.


Eddie

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Thank you all, I’m building up the courage... :smt005 :smt006
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
John 21:3

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Fisherman X

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Thank you all, I’m building up the courage... :smt005 :smt006

Are you going to start transporting it deck side down after the repair?
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Eddie

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Thank you all, I’m building up the courage... :smt005 :smt006

Are you going to start transporting it deck side down after the repair?
Not sure, the Malone cradle rack system might not support that way of transport...other options I will have to consider...it has worked for a few years straight so I may not cinch so tightly.
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
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Fuzzy Tom

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     I had a large and wide, but fairly shallow (1-2") oil can dent in the bottom of mine and just put it on the ground, top up, and filled it with cold water, and the dent came out.  I had to put towels and noodles under the sides so it wouldn't roll to the side.   I figured that if it didn't work, it wouldn't harm anything to have tried, and the inside would be nice and clean once I got the water out.   
     I got the dent by cinching too hard on a  hot day, and since then, especially at the rear rack, I position the scuppers on top of the rollers before strapping it down. 


Otter

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Thank you all, I’m building up the courage... :smt005 :smt006

Are you going to start transporting it deck side down after the repair?

Good question! I’ve never understood the desire to mount kayaks right side up on top of whatever rack system you’re using. I guess one could argue they look cool like that but structurally it is always better to mount them upside down and strap accordingly. But not too tight…..

-Eliot





Eddie

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     I had a large and wide, but fairly shallow (1-2") oil can dent in the bottom of mine and just put it on the ground, top up, and filled it with cold water, and the dent came out.  I had to put towels and noodles under the sides so it wouldn't roll to the side.   I figured that if it didn't work, it wouldn't harm anything to have tried, and the inside would be nice and clean once I got the water out.   
     I got the dent by cinching too hard on a  hot day, and since then, especially at the rear rack, I position the scuppers on top of the rollers before strapping it down.
Just the weight and time would reshape?  Interesting.  I’m guessing the slightly canned keel section I have is of thicker plastic and may take some heat.  Thanks for confirming the scupper region for securing.  I might chicken out and start with a blow dryer vs. a heat gun, for the keel, and use hot water for the main body.  Still stoked for your hali slay... :smt006
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
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Chet

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Flip it upside down. Drive to Fresno. Problem solved.  :smt044

Really, hot water work. If you pick a 3 digit day to do it, that would be a cake.
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Eddie

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Flip it upside down. Drive to Fresno. Problem solved.  :smt044

Really, hot water work. If you pick a 3 digit day to do it, that would be a cake.
Copy, heat wave central, was just down up there in da Sequoia National Forest, East of Visalia...see ya' on da wattah June 26th!
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
John 21:3

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Dale L

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As to glide, Years ago in another lifetime I looked into ways to make my jet boat faster, I could go into a long explanation about hull manufacture or engine torque affecting hull shape. But short story cupping does affect glide, how much on a yak vs a powerboat is a question, but first thing recommended to me was to bondo any imperfections in the hull.

Good Hunting.


SlackedTide

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I’m lazy....seal the kayak air tight... pressurize it constantly with air /air compressor... could even rig an automotive leak down tester to make sure ur not losing psi, and apply  hot water... that’s the genius method

Or just do what the bodymans do... apply heat add pressure... and blow cold air.. that’s how they get metal to shrink when it tin cans.
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