Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
February 05, 2023, 02:26:03 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Topics

[February 04, 2023, 11:55:14 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 10:13:32 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 09:23:35 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 09:07:36 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 07:45:20 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 07:41:26 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 07:37:38 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 04:45:59 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 02:45:19 PM]

[February 04, 2023, 10:16:25 AM]

[February 03, 2023, 11:59:53 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 10:52:46 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 06:15:17 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 04:30:14 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 01:24:09 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 12:40:28 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 12:34:18 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 12:13:20 PM]

[February 03, 2023, 10:54:03 AM]

[February 03, 2023, 09:00:44 AM]

[February 03, 2023, 08:56:45 AM]

[February 02, 2023, 05:18:38 PM]

[February 02, 2023, 03:13:31 PM]

[February 02, 2023, 02:42:37 PM]

[February 02, 2023, 08:52:55 AM]

[February 01, 2023, 09:19:48 PM]

[February 01, 2023, 09:01:49 AM]

[January 31, 2023, 11:14:36 PM]

[January 31, 2023, 10:11:12 PM]

Support NCKA

Support the site by making a donation.

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Jewli0n

Pages: [1] 2
For Sale / [SALE PENDING] FS - 2020 Hobie Passport 12 - $1k
« on: February 02, 2023, 07:39:41 PM »

Listed on CL and FB Marketplace for $1200, offering up to NCKAers for $1000.

Located in Santa Rosa but willing to meet halfway for delivery.

Feel free to message me or post with questions.



This is a great entry level fishing pedal kayak that has served me well. Its been miles offshore, and has had much blood on the deck. Its extraordinarily stableenough to stand on and cast from easily.

I am the original owner of this pedal kayak. Normal wear and tear after 3 years of use. Includes Mirage drive GT with turbo fins (plus a set of regular fins as spares), paddle, and seat. Depending on what other accessories you want I may have extras (rod holders, Scotty mounts, etc.) lying around that I can throw in. Just let me know. Has two Scotty mounts thru bolted with backing plates to the front deck, as well as a couple pad eyes, and aftermarket handles on the stern. Has the upgraded XL rudder (will throw in the old rudder system as a spare). Has thru hull wiring kit installed, and ready for your fish finder. Has two Hobie pockets installed as well, which are an add-on with this platform.

It has always been stored properly on cradles/straps indoors, and thoroughly cleaned of saltwater after each use.

Recipes / Save your crab for later!
« on: November 14, 2022, 06:53:49 PM »
Thought I would share a couple of ways I've found to save (freeze) your surplus cooked crab. I've been experimenting quite a bit over the last three seasons, and after packing some extra crab from last weekend with some new supplies, I'm convinced I've got it dialed in. I vacuum sealed over a dozen crab without puncturing a single bag. Here are two ways:

The best way I've found to vacuum pack and freeze:

Supplies needed:
vacuum sealer
butcher paper - https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Kraft-Butcher-Paper-Roll/dp/B0776JH663?th=1
11 x 16 vacuum bags - https://www.amazon.com/Gamesaver-Weston-Commercial-Puncture-Prevention/dp/B07TV4KRCL

I already had the butcher paper from smoking various meats, and the larger gamesaver bags I bought in advance to give this a go.

TL;DR - The process is probably self-explanatory from the supplies list, but the idea is to wrap and then seal.

1. Cut a 24-36" sheet of butcher paper and place whole crab, or crab halves, about 8-10" from the corner of the sheet at a 45 degree angle.
2. Fold the closest corner over, followed by the adjacent corner. (If you've ever worked at a deli, this is the same way that a sandwich-maker would wrap a sandwich).
3. Now take the crab, and fold it forward.
4. Proceed by folding the left side in, creating a straight edge on the left that is perpendicular to the crab itself, and then fold the crab forward again (am I over-explaining this?  :smt044). Repeat this rhythm until the sheet is completely folded around the crab. This layering by successive folds is what keeps all of the pokeys on the crab from puncturing the vacuum bag.
5. Slip your crab sandwich into a vac bag, and seal. No need to run on "gentle" mode with this method--at least with my cheap sealer.

I should also note it's important to set the crab up in its most "defensive" position. All of the legs should be tucked in with the pointy bits on the tips of the legs aligned inward. Pics below for reference.

Experiment for freezing lump meat:

This one I had never done until last weekend, but feel pretty good about it. I have been interested in freezing lump meat, but only ever see it at the store in some kind of liquid. After some reading online, every source on the internet says to use milk?? No. I refuse. Even though it seems like people have resoundingly positive results.

I decided to make a light brine, and used 1/8c kosher salt in 1 qt of water. This was enough to prepare the 2.5 lbs of lump meat we picked to save for later.

I filled up a 1 qt beaker with about 3 cups (3/4 qt) of water and added 1/8c kosher sold. Stir to dissolve. Once dissolved, added enough Ice to make the beaker read 1 qt. I wanted to make sure the brine was ice-cold when pouring over the lump meat to not spoil the meat, and also make it freeze quicker. Pour enough brine to just cover the crab meat.

I used some 3-cup plastic containers and froze in 1 lb incriments, and lined the top with plastic wrap to prevent freezer burn on the small amount of exposed meat.

Date and freeze. I will post results when we decide to use it. Until then, take this one with a bit of caution, as I'm not sure how it will turn out.

How do you save your lump meat for later?

General Fishing Tips / Bleed 'em better?
« on: August 23, 2022, 10:00:45 AM »
Curious if other folks have any tricks to bleeding bigger fish more successfully, beyond just cutting the gills and hanging the fish into the water to bleed out.

I've been super fortunate over the last few weeks to land some big fish--some of the biggest of my life. And it turns out, they're a lot harder to bleed completely. Both of my big salmon had a decent amount of blood in the veins of the belly meat, and toward the tail, when processing them. I like to scrape the carcass meat too, and a lot of it was bloody, making me less inclined to want to use it for sushi stuff, as the blood definitely has that distinct undesirable taste.

I know people cut tails, but I've never been able to make it work (i.e. get it to bleed) when when I've tried on big halibut. Do you have to cut all the way through the spine to make it work? Is there a noticeable difference with this method? Bummer is you can't get AOTY points for tail-bled fish!  :smt010

Another thing that I'm super curious about is "pressure bleeding." I saw a commercial guy explaining it on Instagram, and basically it involves cutting through the ribcage on the last few bones at the back of the belly cavity (above the fish butt basically), then taking a hose nozzle, presumably with seawater (he was underway on the boat), and basically irrigating the vascular system through the incision. It was amazing how much blood came out on an already-bled fish! I imagine it would not be good to do with freshwater though. Anybody have any insight or experience with this method? I really want to try to make an attachment for my manual bilge pump and try to do it OTW. It just looked like it worked so well.

Thanks for your insight and tips!

Wind seem to have kept most away, but there were still 8-10 kayaks out today. Ran into a few familiar faces, and launched into a breezy morning. Launched just before the low into 56 degree water. Once the tide picked up, so did the wind. The conditions were snotty, and the drift with the wind + tide was about 2mph. We were quickly several miles west of the launch with no bites. We decided to tack into the wind and current so we didn't end up at Oyster Point by accident.

The Lovely Martha and Happy Hooker, along with the rest of the power boat fleet were out there too working the area a bit further.

5 minutes after we switched directions, boom, takedown in 10 FOW. No flasher, straight herring. Stuck a nice 27" in the belly and on the clip. We continued our way back, grinding it out at 0.8 mph into the wind. But the herring was presenting well regardless. Had another missed bite 10 minutes later in the same area. Another hour or two went by and the chop started to die down around 11, contrary to the forecast, and by noon the conditions were almost glassed out. It was quite pleasant, and we weren't too far from the launch. As we decided to turn in about noon, Brie finally got the buzzer beater bite in 12 FOW. She's been wanting to try gaffing a fish for the first time, and this was the chance! I got a glimpse of the fish and confirmed it was a keeper--about 25". Talked her through it, and she waited patiently for the right moment, and she nailed it. Poked in the belly, and onto the game clip. She's thrilled about the 10 point upgrade for AOTY.

CA Regulations / West Bodega Jetty without Fishing License?
« on: November 10, 2021, 08:25:50 PM »
Looking to take some friends out to do some crab snaring who don't have fishing licenses. My interpretation of the below definition of a "public pier" makes me think that the west (north?) jetty in Bodega Bay qualifies. What do you think? Has anybody heard from a Warden otherwise? TIA.


Anyone 16 years and older must have a fishing license to take any kind of fish, mollusk, invertebrate or
crustacean in California, except for persons angling from a public pier for non-commercial purposes in ocean or bay waters. A public pier is defined in the sport fishing regulations as a publicly owned man-made structure that has the following characteristics: is connected, above the mean high tide, to the main coastline or to the land mass of a named and charted natural island; has unrestricted free access for the general public; and has been built or currently functions for the primary purpose of allowing angling access to ocean waters.

Additionally, publicly owned jetties or breakwaters that are connected to land, as described above, that have free unrestricted access for the general public and whose purpose it is to form the most seaward protective boundary of an ocean harbor are public piers. Jetties, breakwaters, promenades, sea walls, moles, docks, linings, barriers and other structures that are not the most seaward protective boundary of an ocean harbor, are not public piers.

For Sale / Hobie Standard Kayak Cart - Trade or $
« on: October 01, 2021, 04:47:05 PM »
Looking to get rid of these wheels taking up space in my garage. I think theyre $170 new, Ill take just about anything for them. Rod, reel, tackle, other cool shit, tools, etc. or money. Mostly just want them gone.  Elastic is detached from the little pin but should be easy to fix or just cut it off. This isnt the heavy duty cart with the tough wheels these are the lighter foam-ish wheels. Not good for sand but fine for any other durable surfaces. Im in Santa Rosa but can potentially meet depending on location. Make me an offer and Ill probably say yes (within reason  :smt005)

Craftsmen's Corner / Super-Crate
« on: September 02, 2021, 09:08:01 PM »
I'm far better at design and fabrication than I am at fishing, so any time I can build or modify something for the kayak it's a really enjoyable rabbit hole to fall into for me. Here's the latest rabbit hole.

-incorporate two modular rear rod holders for multi-rod drifting--without adding any holes to the kayak.
-Reinforced mounting system for crate to support additional load from rod holders
-3-rod holder
-use no parts or materials prone to corrosion
-incorporate easy-access dry storage
-Don't lose livewell functionality

-1.5" x 1/8" x 4' piece of aluminum stock
-Assorted stainless steel nuts and bolts
-2 Scotty Rocket Launchers
-1 3-rod mounted rod holder
-4 nickel rings
-4 plastic pad-eyes
-bonus fly-fishing dry-bag/fanny pack (for reel storage on surf launches/landing) and Yeti Sidekick.

I'll let the pictures do the talking but I'm pretty psyched to take it out and give it a whirl. There is some flex in the crate when I load the rod holders, but I think it's still sturdy enough and my drag will never be locked out when the line is the water so it should be all good. The mounting system works well too--once the straps are synched the crate has virtually no slop. Pretty stoked  :smt026

Craftsmen's Corner / I made a sweet rod rack after work
« on: July 21, 2021, 07:59:33 PM »
If I can do a cost analysis on building something I need vs. buying it, and the build version comes out cheaper, you can bet your ass I'm going to build it. Similar racks go for $80 on Amazon, and I build this for the cost of two pine boards @ $6 each. Super stoked on how it came out, and I built it to the dimensions of the space that it's going to live in.

horizontal pieces are 42", and the verticals are 32". Hole saw used was 1.5". Used a Kreg jig for the pocket screws. Maybe someday I'll put a coat of polyurethane on it for protection and aesthetic. For now, it's all about functionality! First pic is of the "Before" situation...

Bodega and Tomales are my closest ocean destinations. Ive been tossing up a lengthy pro/con list in my head all week. I know the halibut bite in tomales has been slow but the tides are perfect tomorrow. I also have salmon fever, and bodega is close for me. But there are lots of jellys, the fish are relatively far out and deep, but the wind looks excellent for the morning. Added benefit of rockfishing to avoid the skunk.

TL;DR please tell me where to go fishing tomorrow. I cant make up my freakin mind.

General Talk / Smoked Brisket Advice...
« on: April 09, 2021, 07:33:33 PM »
So I'm smoking a 15 lb brisket tomorrow morning, probably starting at 4am so we can eat late afternoon. This will be my 3rd smoked brisket, and I have so much to learn. This will be my first time doing it in an offset smoker. I got hickory, apple and mesquite chunks as a blend that I'm going to use. Planning on keeping it between 200 and 230 in the smoker as much as possible.

Are there any brisket gurus out there? Any advice? to mop or not to mop? Here's what I'm doing so far:

-salt and pepper rub, nothing else
-low and slow, keeping the inside of the smoker humid with a tin of water, pre-boiled
-monitoring temp with instant read.
-shooting for 10+ hours...

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Revo 13 - cooler ideas inside front hatch?
« on: March 01, 2021, 05:23:54 PM »
As of Friday I am the ultra super duper stoked owner of a 2021 Revo 13. After a lot of research over the last couple months I finally pulled the trigger on her and I couldn't be more thrilled, especially after the first maiden voyage on Sunday at ARW (I skunked). I am transitioning from a Passport 12, upon which I use a Wilderness Systems Catch cooler on the bow that works great for most of the gamefish I catch. I decided to secure this cooler to the front deck of the Revo, which basically renders the front hatch useless. After a day out, I realized that I am not the biggest fan of it up there, considering how sleek that kayak is, and how gracious the internal storage in the front hatch is. It's gotta be 150 liters?? Anyway, after poking around a bit, I couldn't find much in terms of coolers that work well inside of the Revo front hatch. The rear of my kayak is where I keep my livewell and safety kit (extra layers, pump) and I feel like I really need to utilize that front hatch for my catch. But I definitely don't want to rawdog it in there.

TLDR: Does anyone have a cooler/Fish storage soultion for inside of the front Revo compartment? Something easy to slip in and out, and slip some (big) fish into with minimal inconvenience?

Craftsmen's Corner / Jewli0n's (micro) Livewell Build
« on: January 12, 2021, 04:43:24 PM »
So I've been fantasizing about a livewell on the kayak for a while now, but didn't want to drop the money or have something as gargantuan as the Hobie livewells. I pretty much am only going to be storing live anchovies so I don't need a ton of space. So after combing the internet for months and shopping around for the right sized container, I finally have amassed all the components, and will be starting the build as soon as I post this.

For the container/well, I went with a 2 gallon drink cooler from Rubbermaid. Since the volume on the container is pretty small, most bilge pumps available would have been too powerful, exceeding 500+ GPM. So I went with a submersible 200GPM fountain pump that should do the trick, and only draws 1 amp. I think it was about $30. The pump will be mounted to the side, so to prime it, I got a gas siphon ball.

The battery is 12V 8amp-hours deep cycle battery, also about $30 on Amazon, and should keep the well going during a full day on the water. To house the power system, I got a Pelican 1050 case that fits the battery with no room to spare. I will attach a waterproof switch to the outside, and use various sprinkler fittings and 1/2" ID braided vinyl tubing to tie it all together.

My total investment so far is about $160. I will update here with my progress and test runs. Eventually if anyone is interested (assuming it works) I can update with links to the components used.

Here goes nothing!

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Dry suit neck/throat pain?
« on: November 29, 2020, 01:45:19 PM »
I recently bought a Stohlquist Shift drysuit--sort of an impulse buy, found one online for almost 80% off retail, new. I'm 5,8", 145lbs, which puts me smack dab into a medium according to their size chart, which is what I bought.

Before going out, I tried it on. It was snug on the neck, and bordered just below uncomfortable. But I assumed this was normal to keep water out. I wore the suit for a 5 hour trip out in Bodega last week, and truthfully it was super uncomfortable. I did get used to it after a while. A day later, my thyroid area was super tender and sore, on the front/lower part of my neck. Its feeling better now, but I am almost certain this is from the suit.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm certain a large would be too big for me, and I don't have an abnormally large neck or anything. Any tips/insight/advice on drysuit fit would be awesome.

Thanks all.

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Getting back to basics with reel maintenance
« on: October 06, 2020, 04:05:01 PM »
Preface: I did search the forum for answers to my query, but didn't quite find what I'm looking for, so here I am.

For years and years, I've been under the impression that all I had to do after a day of fishing in salt, assuming my reels didn't get dunked, was rinse them off good, towel dry, and they're good to go for next time. I got my first Daiwa Lexa 300 in January of this year and used it extensively (once or twice per week for the entire year). Never dunked it. But after a while, the bearings started screaming, and my casting distance dropped. I took it apart and found major corrosion in the spool bearings and the crank bearing deep inside the reel. The latter was so seized and corroded I couldn't get it out of the housing, so I sent it in to Daiwa. It was effectively totaled, and they sold me a new one at a discount. That reel had never been underwater, but clearly had been affected by saltwater corrosion. It is very apparent that something needed to change with my maintenance routine, and that simply hosing off the reels after use was not enough.

While that reel was in the shop, I purchased another Lexa 300 so I had another one to fish with (it was on the list anyway, I wanted a second one). That was about 4 months ago.

I swore to be better to my gear, and now I use warm water in the sink to really make sure my reels are clean. Towel dry, and store inside. Now, the reel I bought while the original Lexa was in the shop is starting to make bearing noise (after only about 3 months of moderate use, never dunked) and I'm bummed out. I've never taken this one apart before just because it's still so new. Clearly I'm missing something with reel care and maintenance.

TL;DR- My questions for you all are:

1) What is your day-to-day (i.e. just got home from fishing) reel maintenance routine for your baitcasting reels?

2) Assuming 1 saltwater fishing day per week and no immersion, how often are you opening up the reel and cleaning, greasing/lubricating bearings?

3) Does anyone have any experience with a ceramic bearing upgrade on a Lexa? Is it worth it? Does it increase the lifespan of the bearings and/or make corrosion and saltwater damage less common?

Thank you all for your wisdom and insight!

Pages: [1] 2