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2018 AOTY/DOTY Entry

Topic: Tide current drift control  (Read 830 times)

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Eddie

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


traildad

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope.  ~John Buchan


Eddie

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
I prefer the chain idea, thanks.   I could put a change out connection on the end of my anchor and switch from the anchor to the chain and keep my trolley system, thanks again :smt006
« Last Edit: February 07, 2018, 09:41:02 AM by Eddie »
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


bmb

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
I prefer the chain idea, thanks.   I could put a change out connection on the end of my anchor and switch from the anchor to the chain and keep my trolley system, thanks again :smt006
Lots of guys use those in rivers. Those guys also try to put the chain in bicycle tubing or other sort of shrink wrap to prevent it from snagging.  I know the bays are fairly snag free, but thats what I would be most concerned about.


Eddie

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
I prefer the chain idea, thanks.   I could put a change out connection on the end of my anchor and switch from the anchor to the chain and keep my trolley system, thanks again :smt006
Lots of guys use those in rivers. Those guys also try to put the chain in bicycle tubing or other sort of shrink wrap to prevent it from snagging.  I know the bays are fairly snag free, but thats what I would be most concerned about.
Even better with the shrink wrap or tubing.
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


traildad

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
I prefer the chain idea, thanks.   I could put a change out connection on the end of my anchor and switch from the anchor to the chain and keep my trolley system, thanks again :smt006
Lots of guys use those in rivers. Those guys also try to put the chain in bicycle tubing or other sort of shrink wrap to prevent it from snagging.  I know the bays are fairly snag free, but thats what I would be most concerned about.
Even better with the shrink wrap or tubing.

+1. Also that will keep the mud and muck from filling up the links and making a muddy mess in your kayak. I got the heaviest chain Home Depot sells for an anchor but found it slips in heavy current. It should work for what you have in mind.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope.  ~John Buchan


Eddie

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When I was in Tomales recently, with the wind and current, we flew through the drift.  Yes, drift sock application would have helped because there was wind,but the wind was going the same direction as the current(tide), so no help at all, if I had one.  I was thinking about dragging a 2-3lb ball on paracord to slow the drift, in SF bay also, so I can work an area better. The drift can be so fast in the tide, no wind, that I have to reset so soon that I wear myself out getting back to original drift beginning.  Thoughts?
I wonder what would happen if it snagged on something. I get nervous when my downrigger drags bottom. If it was attached to the back at least you wouldn't turn sideways into the current. Use of a QRAS would help. Maybe a length of heavy chain instead of a ball would be less likely to snag.
I prefer the chain idea, thanks.   I could put a change out connection on the end of my anchor and switch from the anchor to the chain and keep my trolley system, thanks again :smt006
Lots of guys use those in rivers. Those guys also try to put the chain in bicycle tubing or other sort of shrink wrap to prevent it from snagging.  I know the bays are fairly snag free, but thats what I would be most concerned about.
Even better with the shrink wrap or tubing.

+1. Also that will keep the mud and muck from filling up the links and making a muddy mess in your kayak. I got the heaviest chain Home Depot sells for an anchor but found it slips in heavy current. It should work for what you have in mind.
Do you know how many pounds your chain is, and I'm sure, galvanized, I'm thinking start with 3 lbs and add chain if I have to
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


traildad

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Looking at my previous posts I wrote it is 5ft long and 3lbs. Yes galvanized and it is the heaviest size Home Depot sells.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope.  ~John Buchan


Eddie

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Looking at my previous posts I wrote it is 5ft long and 3lbs. Yes galvanized and it is the heaviest size Home Depot sells.
Thank you and tight lines!
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


Eddie

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Looking at my previous posts I wrote it is 5ft long and 3lbs. Yes galvanized and it is the heaviest size Home Depot sells.
Thank you and tight lines!
i went to buy some chain and realized I had 3 lbs on my anchor so I put a carabiner on the bottom of my anchor and I can just unclip it and use the chain for drag without a whole new rope and chain.  We'll see how it does tomorrow in tiburon, hope there's an early herring Hali in there for me. :smt006
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


BG90

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Hope your drift anchor setup works out for you and good luck on your fishing. Their was a report this Saturday from Lawson landing that a 14 lbs Hali was caught by Hog Island.
http://fishlawsons.blogspot.com/2018/02/goligowski-caught-this-14-pound-halibut.html?m=1


Eddie

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Hope your drift anchor setup works out for you and good luck on your fishing. Their was a report this Saturday from Lawson landing that a 14 lbs Hali was caught by Hog Island.
http://fishlawsons.blogspot.com/2018/02/goligowski-caught-this-14-pound-halibut.html?m=1
Yeah that report messed me up and I tried to find another at tomales on Monday. It's a good sign
« Last Edit: February 07, 2018, 06:31:40 PM by Eddie »
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


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I've been thinking about using a D-ring to secure some chain to my anchor but is there any reason why a heavier (5.5-7lb) anchor wouldn't work as wel?


Eddie

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I've been thinking about using a D-ring to secure some chain to my anchor but is there any reason why a heavier (5.5-7lb) anchor wouldn't work as wel?
I found 3 lbs if chain to give the speed I want in a certain tide but I've been mulling having attachable one lb sections in faster tides, the shape of an anchor does not seem drift shaped
Word to the wise if your mama aint' taught ya' "Don't stand in front of a man and a fish he aint' caught yet.  Brock Zeman song "I'm goin' fishin"

Jackson Kraken 15.7


Scurvy

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I've been thinking about using a D-ring to secure some chain to my anchor but is there any reason why a heavier (5.5-7lb) anchor wouldn't work as wel?
I found 3 lbs if chain to give the speed I want in a certain tide but I've been mulling having attachable one lb sections in faster tides, the shape of an anchor does not seem drift shaped

Eddie, after following this thread, I'm thinking there is a way you might get good results with minimal effort/modifications to your existing setup and will give you more weight:

  • Assumption:  You are rigged with a typical fold-up grapnel style anchor
  • Leave the anchor attached to the rode chain (chain for anchor attachment)
  • Use a suitable length of either mountain bike or dirt bike inner tube that will completely cover the FOLDED UP anchor and extend over the rode chain
  • Zip-tie the inner tube in place, no need to close off the end that covers the anchor

As I think about it, if the anchor end of the inner tube is left open, it will allow rinsing and the water to drain out, there's no reason you couldn't just leave the inner tube in place and simply slide up the open end to free up the anchor if you want to use the deployed anchor.

NOTE:  For those looking to buy rode chain, be aware that not all galvanized chains are equivalent:  The galvanizing of standard HD chain is not particularly heavy duty and will quickly rust away in saltwater.  The best bet is to buy rode chain from a marine supply, like Svendson's in Alameda, or your local West Marine.