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2017 AOTY/DOTY Entry

Topic: Advice Sought for My Dead Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp  (Read 375 times)

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HamachiJohn

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So, my FF won't power up, and it's not a battery issue.  Since I don't know jack about electronics, I thought I'd get y'all's advice before going out and buying a replacement.

I went diving at Albion last week, and rolled my yak. FF wiring was securely connected to the FF, and don't think it hit any rocks in the rollover.  My battery was stored in the center hatch of my Revo 13, in a dry bag (dry bag was NOT clipped on to make it watertight).  Also, the wiring didn't have a fuse.  After the rollover, I don't remember anything about the FF.

A week later, I went crabbing and wasn't able to power on my FF, with a full battery charge.
I'm guessing I need a new FF, but would like to hear your thoughts, advice, or any "told you so" stuff.  Thanks.
Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


Tsuri

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Dont know jack about electrics either but I thought the installation instructions said to use the inline fuse that is included with the FF so that if there was a short circuit it wouldn't fubb up the head unit?

Or...

I recall something about these units inadvertently having the brightness adjusted all the way down so you can't even see that they are on. Supposed to be some trick when you turn it on so you can increase how it is lit up and then everything is fine..... I remember reading something about this presumably on NCKA.

Hope it's the second option in your case and someone who knows more will chime in with the fix.
« Last Edit: November 09, 2017, 10:52:45 PM by Tsuri »
Bite should pick up with the change in the tide!


HamachiJohn

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Dont know jack about electrics either but I thought the installation instructions said to use the inline fuse that is included with the FF so that if there was a short circuit it wouldn't fubb up the head unit?

Or...

I recall something about these units inadvertently having the brightness adjusted all the way down so you can't even see that they are on. Supposed to be some trick when you turn it on so you can increase how it is lit up and then everything is fine..... I remember reading something about this presumably on NCKA.

Hope it's the second option in your case and someone who knows more will chime in with the fix.
Thx Tsuri. After seeing your response, I did an online search, and found some troubleshooting suggestions. I tried the backlight adjustment, which didn't resolve it. I then reset the unit by pressing +/- and power button. I heard a barely audible fizzing sound, then my unit started to smoke. I guess water had gotten into it when my yak rolled while diving. So I guess it is water-resistent (meaning surf launches are ok), but not getting dunked. I would have thought these units would have sufficient sealing to withstand some dunking/ yak rolling.

While this was my first time rolling a yak, if it happens again, I may be SOL again. Maybe I should buy an extended warranty...

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


Tinker

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John, sorry to hear you killed an innocent fish finder.  For what it's worth, the most probable point for water to get into the head unit is through the SD card slot.  Those covers have to be the worst possible design for a "waterproof" component, ever.  I think they're more "rain resistant" than waterproof.

Search the forums, here and on NWKA, for tips about how to seal that cover for your next unit.
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Tsuri

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Oh $#!+ Sorry about that John, just goes to show a little knowledge might be more dangerous than none at all.

Gooped the rubber card flap door thing closed on mine but starting to wonder if I should be rolling the yak with the FF mounted or just save the rolling for when it's stored below deck.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2017, 08:03:30 AM by Tsuri »
Bite should pick up with the change in the tide!


HamachiJohn

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John, sorry to hear you killed an innocent fish finder.  For what it's worth, the most probable point for water to get into the head unit is through the SD card slot.  Those covers have to be the worst possible design for a "waterproof" component, ever.  I think they're more "rain resistant" than waterproof.

Search the forums, here and on NWKA, for tips about how to seal that cover for your next unit.

Will do, thx Kevin.

Oh $#!+ Sorry about that John, just goes to show a little knowledge might be more dangerous than none at all.

Gooped the rubber card flap door thing closed on mine but starting to wonder if I should be rolling the yak with the FF mounted or just save the rolling for when it's stored below deck.


Some lessons are more expensive than others, but valuable nonetheless... I guess I am wiser now.  Now I need to search the forum on sealing the SD card slot...
Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


yakhopper

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Sorry for the expensive lesson John,
For the future unit, this may help
To seal the slot, just completely fill the slot with dielectric grease, than close tightly.
this will keep water out, but still allow future users (if sold) to use it.
Also,
Remember, these units were designed for a "Boat" not a kayak.
Water resistance is tested under pressurized water stream, not water depth.
http:/www.sheltercovetidesinn.com
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HamachiJohn

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Sorry for the expensive lesson John,
For the future unit, this may help
To seal the slot, just completely fill the slot with dielectric grease, than close tightly.
this will keep water out, but still allow future users (if sold) to use it.
Also,
Remember, these units were designed for a "Boat" not a kayak.
Water resistance is tested under pressurized water stream, not water depth.

Thanks bro.  If I use the SD card slot to log sonar, should I put the SD card in, and THEN put some dielectric grease on top of it, and maybe even gorilla tape it after I grease it?  I wouldn't need to access the SD card, unless I am transferring it to a new unit, or unless someone asks me to copy the card to plot an area I've logged.  Or would it be overkill to put in the SD card, grease it, then goop it, then cover it with gorilla tape?

Thanks.
Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


yakhopper

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Either way (with or without card),
Pack with grease, than close tightly.
The grease will help keep water out.
http:/www.sheltercovetidesinn.com
http:/www.facebook.com/yakhopperadventures
Proud paddler - Pay it Forward Paddle 2010 / 2011 / 2012 / 2013 / 2014


HamachiJohn

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Either way (with or without card),
Pack with grease, than close tightly.
The grease will help keep water out.
Thank you! Happy Vets Day!
Down to 1 Hobie Revo...


JamesM

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John, sorry to hear that. I couldn't be more helpful on the electronic, but have you check all the cables and connections? I had a way worse experience, and I was 99% sure both my battery kit and FF were fried. But it turned out just a power line got disconnected. Good luck!


Tote

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No help here for this unit but maybe for a future unit.
If you dunk your FF bury it in a bag of rice to dry out.
You can also put a very thin bead of Goop over the rubber plug on the SD card. Enough
so water won't penetrate but make it easy to peel off if necessary.
<=>


Tinker

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John, if you're going to use a map card, put a small amount of grease in the slot, seat the card, and ad grease until the slot is full.  It's easier to make sure the card is in position that way.

I see your negotiating for an Elite-4.  I thought the rubber slot cover thingy on my Elite-4 was tricky to close properly - I had to be careful to ensure it was fully seated.  If you get an Elite-4 (or a Hook-4 for that matter) I think grease plus a bit of Gorilla tape or GOOP, as Tote suggest, might be the way to go.

Of course, you could learn to keep the kayak upright.  That always worked best for me.

And a pleasant and peaceful Veteran's Day wish to you, too.  :beer2
« Last Edit: November 10, 2017, 11:08:18 AM by Tinker »
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hightide

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Might want to hold on to the unit for a while John.  Dunked my hummingbird FF while back.  It wouldn't go on for a couple of days. Then after months in the gear bin I tried it on and the thing worked again.  I guess water inside it finally dried out.Dunked it at TC.
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Tez

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Might want to hold on to the unit for a while John.  Dunked my hummingbird FF while back.  It wouldn't go on for a couple of days. Then after months in the gear bin I tried it on and the thing worked again.  I guess water inside it finally dried out.

What about trying the sealed container and rice trick, like you would with a wet cellphone or ipod? 


 

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