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2018 AOTY/DOTY Entry

Topic: DIY Stainless Steel Mirage Drive Pedal Shafts  (Read 7521 times)

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Great Bass 2

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Had a mirage drive failure slightly different from Scott's.  The bolt for the pedal pulled through the shaft.  Will have to post pictures and see if anybody else has had the same thing happen.

Someone just posted that on the hobie site. https://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48377&sid=6a74f171efd011289882858159145cd8&start=60

I used these bits

15/32”, 3/8”, 5/16”, ¼”

Only the pedal spindle hole has to be precise as far as diameter (15/32").
« Last Edit: March 27, 2014, 01:31:18 PM by Great Bass 2 »
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Sledge

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Yeah, I would hold off doing what I did until I stress test the shafts.
looks sweet Scott...busted a peddle last yr...well someone else did...same thing...lol... love this thread good info...guys!!!

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Great Bass 2

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For you guys who get the V1 solid aluminum pedal shafts, which I highly recommend, you have to choose a pair of pedals. I would recommend using inexpensive, plastic pedals for 2 reasons:
1. The bearings in any pedal arent going to last long on the ocean and the plastic pedals are dirt cheap.
2. The plastic pedals can be easily modified and less likely to cut fishing line.

I removed the inner curved part of the pedal with a dremel because it was a potential line entrapment issue which I noticed on my test run. I know you bike guys will be tempted to get some expensive titanium pedals but... :smt005 :smt005 :smt005, you don't want to go "Armstrong" IMO.
1st Place 2007 Kayak Connection Father's Day Derby
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1st Place 2011 Albion Open
1st Place 2012 & 2013 Central Coast Custom Lure Contest
1st Place 2013 The Simply Fishing Tournament


charles

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Great Bass made a good pedal decision. Either go cheap and replaceable or more permanent and expensive. If one chooses to use clip in pedals then very cheap is not an option. My used mid price clip in pedals went through last seasons salt outings and did fine. Bearings spin free and pedals have only minor rust stain.
Charles


Elkhornsun

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Wellgo BMX pedals with sealed bearings sell for $22.

Anodizing is only microns thick so no better than paint for any area subject to wear. Going with ANSI 5083-H32 aluminum would make for some very strong cranks. Maybe time to get some manufactured for the fishing market. This is the kind of item that is quick and inexpensive to have made in China and Hobie has a patent on the drive mechanism but not on the crank arms and pedals.

I have to wonder how much of the failure is with the use of the turbo fins. It is going to take more force to move them through the water and the result is going to be more stress on every part of the Mirage drive. It may be easiest to replace the V2 shafts every 12-18 months as the breakage is from metal fatigue with excessive flexing of the hollow shaft.

Surprising in an era of CAD software that provides stress simulation that this flaw got into manufacture at Hobie. Someone was not doing their job. My company makes tools for which we provide a 5-year warranty and the tools are engineered to hold up with daily use by contractors who use and abuse tools. This is not rocket science.


fungunnin

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When I decided on what metal to use for the drive arms I'm starting to manufacture I was torn between going with tubular stainless or solid bar aluminum. After looking at the specs of high grade aluminum I decided that the additional baring surface and the added strength of 7075 aluminum. I have been running my prototype pair since last year and they have oxidized some but nothing I am worried about. For my production pedals arms I will Anodize them to mil spec so they should be pretty tough.
I am pretty excited about the adapter I am incorporating into my pedal design that will allow both stock Hobie pedals and 9/16 bike pedals.


charles

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I think solid stock 7075 aluminum is stronger than tubed SS. Solid SS would be harder to thread for bike pedals and probably overkill for the purpose of pedal shafts. I have not heard of any breakage of the original solid drive shaft arms Hobie used in the V1 drives. Having pedal options and possibly different length drive arms sets your product apart from Hobie's old style arms and will be superior by far to Hobie's current tubed aluminum drive arms.
Charles


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Hey Scott,
I bought a set of Melidium drill bits a couple years ago. They are designed to drill SS. With good cutting oil, they go through like butter. Truly amazing drills. One of the best investments I ever made. I got mine from the local welding supply. So far only one of the smaller bits broke. I've drilled SS several times with them. Steady pressure and oil are the key.


Tote

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Hey Scott,
I bought a set of Melidium drill bits a couple years ago. They are designed to drill SS. With good cutting oil, they go through like butter. Truly amazing drills. One of the best investments I ever made. I got mine from the local welding supply. So far only one of the smaller bits broke. I've drilled SS several times with them. Steady pressure and oil are the key.

Glynn,
I did a search of Melidium Drill Bits and could not find anything on the internet.
What brand are they?
<=>


elusive

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Try using cobalt drill bits for your stainless steel or titanium . The key is slow speed and hard pressure and use bees wax or cutting oil . I've been using this bit for over 35 years on Aircraft ...
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mickfish

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Hey Scott,
I bought a set of Melidium drill bits a couple years ago. They are designed to drill SS. With good cutting oil, they go through like butter. Truly amazing drills. One of the best investments I ever made. I got mine from the local welding supply. So far only one of the smaller bits broke. I've drilled SS several times with them. Steady pressure and oil are the key.

Glynn,
I did a search of Melidium Drill Bits and could not find anything on the internet.
What brand are they?
???  :smt043 :smt043  http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Concrete-Tools/Diamond-Core-Bits/Millenium-5300-Bits-Professional-Core-Bits
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Tote

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Hey Scott,
I bought a set of Melidium drill bits a couple years ago. They are designed to drill SS. With good cutting oil, they go through like butter. Truly amazing drills. One of the best investments I ever made. I got mine from the local welding supply. So far only one of the smaller bits broke. I've drilled SS several times with them. Steady pressure and oil are the key.

Glynn,
I did a search of Melidium Drill Bits and could not find anything on the internet.
What brand are they?
???  :smt043 :smt043  http://www.contractorsdirect.com/Concrete-Tools/Diamond-Core-Bits/Millenium-5300-Bits-Professional-Core-Bits


Ahhh...............millenium
<=>


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batt

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      Just for an FYI:   I broke a pedal shaft on my 2012 AI at the crab opener.  25 to 30 knot winds made getting back to Doran Beach interesting.  I could not bring the bow around with the single paddle,  even with the sail completely reefed.  I figured out to turn downwind a complete circle to tack.
  Thanks to Hobie Dave for carrying extra mirage parts so I was able to return to my pots Sun.


Califbill

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The drill bits you want are Split Point style for stainless steel.  Keeps from work hardening the entry point.


 

anything