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2018 AOTY/DOTY Entry

Topic: DIY Stainless Steel Mirage Drive Pedal Shafts  (Read 7513 times)

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SteveS

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Back when I used to ride my bike, I used to crack a bottom bracket every 3 months or so :smt009.

how'd you crack a bottom bracket?
i've fried bearings, but only seen bunged BBs from people crashing


charles

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Filling the shaft tube is possible but acquiring the right size of aluminum stock to tap in the shaft tube to make a snug fit would be difficult. The interior of the shaft is unlikely to be a standard size. Also, if one did the infill the material should be aluminum. I think SS in close contact with AL would lead to electrolysis. All in all, it is probably cheaper, and certainly less time consuming for most of us to just order the V1 solid shaft arms from Hobie. I really don't understand why they went from solid to tube aluminum drive shafts given their pin hole adjustment design.
Charles


polepole

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Filling the shaft tube is possible but acquiring the right size of aluminum stock to tap in the shaft tube to make a snug fit would be difficult. The interior of the shaft is unlikely to be a standard size. Also, if one did the infill the material should be aluminum. I think SS in close contact with AL would lead to electrolysis. All in all, it is probably cheaper, and certainly less time consuming for most of us to just order the V1 solid shaft arms from Hobie. I really don't understand why they went from solid to tube aluminum drive shafts given their pin hole adjustment design.

Since you bring up electrolysis, what is the metal to which the shaft join?  Would there possibly be an electrolysis issue here?

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Joel

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Since you bring up electrolysis, what is the metal to which the shaft join?  Would there possibly be an electrolysis issue here?

-Allen

I'd definitely use some anti-seize on the stainless even if the other parts are stainless.  I have had stainless seize up way too many times over the years.

On another note, I have been looking my pedals over after seeing all the other failures and so far, so good.  Maybe I don't have the leg strength that the rest of you have! :smt003

Anyways, I plan to just weld a solid aluminum insert into mine at some point PRIOR to failure...
See image:
Red = drill out
Blue = new insert with ID of existing

This should keep the hole from "ovaling" out which is the likely reason for failure.



charles

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Allen

I think the current contact points of SS to aluminum, the drive pin and the attachment of drive shaft to mirage unit, can just be rinsed with fresh water after a salt water outing to prevent electrolysis. An infill metal in the shaft would be harder to purge. You raised the idea of possibly using a clamp instead of a drive pin hole in the shaft. Good concept to fit Hobie's decision to use tube aluminum for a drive arm. I've come to realize that Hobie doesn't think in terms of how they can better meet the needs of maybe less than five percent of their customers, the hardcore ocean fishermen. Their designs are meant to meet the vast recreational market who are occasional users of product.
Charles


Bird

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Just cracked my first pedal shaft this weekend - V2 right at the drive pin after 2 years of use.  Probably will try a V1 shaft for now.
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Great Bass 2

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Got some V1 shafts and a pair of BMX pedals from Sport Chalet for $7.00. Packed the corrosion prone areas with Yamaha marine grease. Added some bungees to keep the pedals oriented. Couldn't get the nut off the end of the pedal so couldn't pack the bearings in grease. Will have to go with periodic corrosion X. I am going to have my custom SS shafts as backup and use the V1 shafts as my primary. The V1 shafts are the way to go, IMHO.
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charles

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Pedals and V1 drive shaft arms look good. At $7.50 a pair for BMX pedals they can be replaced yearly as a small expense. There will be more and more guys on this forum choosing  to go to the old style solid shaft drive arms to replace the hollow V 2 shafts that are prone to breakage after extended usage. Hobie should offer a cost free replacement of shaft arms for those who have busted theirs at the pin hole drive arm adjustment area.
Charles


Great Bass 2

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Just a another thought about why the V2 shafts fail. The V2 shafts appear to be painted and the paint comes off with friction pretty easily leaving bare aluminum exposed to salt water. The V1 shafts appear to be anodized.

« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 06:46:23 PM by Great Bass 2 »
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I can't put the real heavy pressure you younger guys can. But has anyone looked into some of the poly plastics that are out there. I would hate to have a failure as well. But I got towed off a lake because i was out after it closed . It was really a nice ride. I think we were doing about 20. The salt to be towed in would be a different ball game. Can't wait to get on it soon. There is an extensive thread on this subject, in the hobie forum.
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NowhereMan

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I've been wanting to experiment with slightly longer cranks on my Adventure, so a couple weeks ago, I bought a pair of 15" pieces of 3/4 square (solid) 6061-T6 aluminum from Gorilla Metals for about $11:
http://www.gorillametals.com/
The standard Hobie cranks are about 13".

I'd planned to borrow a drill press and have at it. But, I've got too many other projects, so I asked my gunsmith neighbor if he could do it. After taking some careful measurements, he insists that to get an exact fit, he'd need metric sizes for all of the holes, and he doesn't have any metric cutters. And I definitely want a tight fit, especially for the pedal axle.

So, any of you who have drilled holes, what size bits did you use, and did you get a factory-like snug fit?

Thanks.



I got blisters on my fingers!


charles

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I think that standard bits will do fine. I used them on my attempt to make crank arms out of tube aluminum stock. The holes were tight. Forgot the size but just place bits in the stock Hobie shaft holes till you find one that is snug and then use that bit for the solid stock aluminum. I think your biggest difficulty will be threading 9/16 left and right hand threads for pedals. You can drill a hole to be able to use Hobie's press fit stock pedals but if you are going to this much effort making standard bike pedal screw ins gives you the option of many different two sided pedal faces including clip ins.
Charles


charles

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This may be a good alternative for those making their own drive shafts. It bypasses having to thread solid stock for pedals or deal with press fitting Hobie's pedal axle to the drive arm. Used crank sets for bikes are around and usually cheap. Only the crank arms are needed. Aluminum crank arms cut easy with a hacksaw and can be rounded with a grinder of some sorts. All that is needed to attach the cutoff bike crank arms are two bolts per arm and nuts. Many options there. The only other holes to drill are the drive pin adjustment hole and bottom bolt hole. 5/16 for drive pin and 5/8 for bottom bolt. A plus of using bike crank arms is getting 3/4 inch more room between drive arm and foot while pedaling. Good luck on this.

Charles
Charles


charles

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Sorry. 3/8 not 5/8 on bottom bolt hole
Charles


dilbeck

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Had a mirage drive failure slightly different from Scott's.  The bolt for the pedal pulled through the shaft.  Will have to post pictures and see if anybody else has had the same thing happen.



 

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