My Revo Project

So here's what I have planned for this build up/upgrade:

- Hobie Rod Holder Extention (2) (done)
- Hobie ST Turbo Fin Kit (done)
- Hobie Sailing Fin (done)
- Hobie Plug-In Seat Connector (done)
- Hobie Sailing Rudder (done)
- Hobie Gear Bucket (done)
- Hobie Pedal Pad Kit (done)
- Install Pedal Weights
- Hobie Drive Well Seal (done)
- Hobie V2 Sprocket
- Mirage Drive Leash Kit (done)
- Ritchie Panel Compass (done)


- Install QRS Anchor Sytem
- Garmin 50/200 In-hull Puck Transducer (done)
- Garmin Low-profile GPS Antenna (done)
- Battery Box (done FINALLY)
- Scotty Flush Mount (3) (done)
- Scotty Deck Mount (2)

- Rear Cross bar w/
  > Downrigger Mount (2) (done)
  > Outrigger Attachment (partially)

Well that's the immediate upgrade plan; hopefully to be completed before GS5.

The first picture below is where I plan to install mounts for use with rod holders, fishfinder and vanity camera.

The second picture is how I plan to fasten the crossbar to the kayak; will use 1" Stainless Steel tubing, which I will mount the Scotty Lake Troller Downrigger. And later, add one outrigger to the starboard side.

I'll add more images of the install as it progresses...

looks like you have quite a list going, what is the Hobie sailing fin if you don't mine me asking. When your done its going to be a fishing Machine   .

Pat R   

looks like you have quite a list going, what is the Hobie sailing fin if you don't mine me asking. When your done its going to be a fishing Machine   .

Pat R

The sailing fin is a large "rudder" (did I called it a "fin" , must have been thinking back to my old windsurfing days), which is supposed to aid in turning better. It's intension is to be a fishing machine; but also hope its a catching machine too... 

Sailing Rudder Installation:
Installation procedure was simple; removed 6 screws, swap out rudder and re-install screws/nuts. I do recommend you replace the nylon locking nuts when re-installing the fasteners; once you back out (remove) a nylon nut, it diminishes its ability to grip the bolt and may possibly come loose. (Difficulty Level:Novice / Installation Time: 10min)

I thought you may have come across a daggerboard for the Revo. I meant  to say catching machine .

Pat R

Hobie Mirage Plug-In Seat Peg Installation:

Instructions included in package and installation were was fairly straight forward. Removed the old seat pegs by unscrewing the screws. However, enlarging the existing holes on the seat, to insert the wider post on the new peg, might require a little bit more time and effort.

Using a soldering iron to melt the velcro & webbing worked really well. Do each seat sections separately when enlarging the holes with the soldering iron, just work slowly in a circular motion so you maintain the center postion of the hole. If your try and to them together to keep the holes aligned, you might melt and fuse the two sections together.

Be sure to remove the melted build up prior to installing the seat peg and washer, the clearance needed to insert the key ring.

Installed the new pegs into the seat, install in kayak, turn the key ring to tighten and I was done.

Cost: $9.95
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Installation Time: 20 minutes

I put my scotty flushmounts in the same place on my Adventure.  If doesn't look like you have the up/down rudder lines at that location to interfere with the install at all.  I had to push the lines out of the way with some foam while drilling.  The plastic was amazingly thick along the rails, and the mount fits perfectly.

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,28168.0.html

I just ordered and received a set of the new scotty rocket launchers.  They look like they will be fantastic for the flushmounts.  I tried the regular rod holders and extension tubes, but it made the cockpit a little cluttered for my taste.  The rocket launchers will have the simplicity of the ram style, but the strength of the scotty mount.  I will post a review soon.

The sailing rudder makes a huge difference, I can almost flip the Adventure if I get too overzealous in my turns!

Good idea on the forward rod mounts.  I would do that, but like the clean rails for loading on my truck.  I need to figure out a forward camera mount.  I have a front "deck" before the hatch where I could install some more flush mounts.

I read on the hobie sight a recommendation to strengthen the seat peg holes to prevent cracking if the pegs are tightened too much.  I filled a 3/4" PVC cap with goop and stuck them over the posts on the inside of the kayak.  It adds a little security.  I sanded and cleaned the posts with alcohol to give the goop better adhesion.

Looks like you are well into the install.  I can't wait to see it at GMS 5!

Matt

Here are more general Hobie upgrades:

ST Turbo Fin Replacement:

Pretty straight forward upgrade, no real issues changing out the fin; except making sure that you get the right ones, if your Mirage Drive is pre-2009, you will need the kit with the set screw and cotter pin.

Cost: $89.95
Difficulty Level: Novice
Installation Time: 15 minutes


Hobie Pedel Paddle Kit:

Piece of cake! Just make sure you clean the pedal surface with alcohol (not the Grey Goose or Hennessy type) and let dry before applying.

To properly center the pad on the peddle, peel off only the lower 1/4th of the backing and position the upper portion of the pad with the backing onto the pedal surface before pressing down the exposed tacky surface to the pedal.

Repeat on the other peddle and your done!!

Cost: $9.95
Difficulty Level: Novice
Installation Time: 20 minutes (mostly to allow the alcohol to fully evaporate)

Image #2 is the 'Before' / Image #3 is the 'After'

This completes the easy upgrades for the project; now on to putting holes in the hull!

I wanted to build a cross-bar similiar to the one in the AMA stabilizer kit; but I wanted it to be alittle more beefy. I plan use it to support a downrigger, install additional Scotty mounts and use it as the main bar for the custom outrigger.

I found a bracket at West Marine that is used to mount BBQ grills to 1" railings on boats {I'll put the part number here when I find it) and it looked fit perfect rail of the boat.

I got used a 36" x 1" stainless steel tubing for the cross bar; with it offset to the port side of the boat, to accommodate the downrigger. Nice thing about these mounts, you can unscrew the top screw and the bar can easily be removed or repositioned. I also saw some telescoping 40" to 70" poles that also fit nicely, which can be used to extend or retract an outrigging system. But this is what it looks like so far.

Cost: Mount Brackets: $22.95
          36" x 1" .o42 SS tubing: $16.00
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Installation Time: 45 minutes

One thing you may want to do is add a 1 oz weight to the back side of the peddle. If its positioned properly it will keep the peddle in the "ready" position. I haven't done it yet to mine and regret it everytime I go out. There was a post on this a while back. Not sure who did it or posted it but a GREAT idea!!!

Good idea on the forward rod mounts.  I would do that, but like the clean rails for loading on my truck.  I need to figure out a forward camera mount.

I read on the hobie sight a recommendation to strengthen the seat peg holes to prevent cracking if the pegs are tightened too much. 

Looks like you are well into the install.  I can't wait to see it at GMS 5!

Hey Matt,

I wish I to could have gone with the flush mounts on the front of the rail, but the mounts are slightly wider than the deck mounts and would have had a little over hang. I have yet to 'permanently' install the mounts, that was a mock up in the images. I still am reviewing all options.

And, thanks for the heads up on the seat peg holes; first thing I did when I got home was back them puppies off.

Install during the week is limited because of work; but this weekend, I plan to jump full bore into it. Need to complete as much of it as I can because the next few weekends that lead up to GS5 are booked.

also, post up your rocket launchers once you get them mounted, that might be another option I would want to incorporate.

Thanks!!

One thing you may want to do is add a 1 oz weight to the back side of the peddle. If its positioned properly it will keep the peddle in the "ready" position. I haven't done it yet to mine and regret it everytime I go out. There was a post on this a while back. Not sure who did it or posted it but a GREAT idea!!!

Thanks Bill,
I read it too, did a search on anything Revo to see how folks mod'd their kayaks. Checked for local and online suppliers but didn't find them; i'll manufacturer my own.

btw: need to cut the s/s rack bars shorter, can I just use a chop saw to do it? Also, just make the nut and bolt5/16", should be close enough.... thanks buddie.

I

Later Bro!should be home all weekend if you wanna swing by; we could do a "Mod Day" for our Revos!

Congrats on getting the deal of the year!  It ain't easy, but you are fast when it comes to pimping.

Another to do item if you get bored is to upgrade to the V2 sprockets.  It's looking great so far!  Have you had a chance to test drive her?

I just remembered that I have a set (or 2?) of the hobie sidekick mount brackets. I doubt that I'm going to use them so PM me if interested.  It would be nice if they were actually used instead of just sitting in the garage.

Congrats on getting the deal of the year!  It ain't easy, but you are fast when it comes to pimping.

Another to do item if you get bored is to upgrade to the V2 sprockets.  It's looking great so far!  Have you had a chance to test drive her?

Thanks! I think I bought it just to have something to tinker on...

Thanks for the heads up on the V2 sprockets; found a good link on it: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10710

I will add it to my list of things to do....

One thing you may want to do is add a 1 oz weight to the back side of the peddle. If its positioned properly it will keep the peddle in the "ready" position. I haven't done it yet to mine and regret it everytime I go out. There was a post on this a while back. Not sure who did it or posted it but a GREAT idea!!!

it was Tote's mod (i think) i did it on mine. I just used some pencil lead and goop. they don't sit perfectly upright but they are close. Also I removed the foot strap. I bet with those still on you will need to use more weight (to offset the strap weight)

I was planning on using tire weights with goop.

But was also looking it doing it the 'bungie method' like on the new drives....