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Topic: Need Some advice on Down Rigger  (Read 923 times)

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  • Location: Monterey CA
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I have a Pro Angler 14 and need some advice on which down rigger i should purchase
I will be fishing for salmon and lake trout.
Thanks :smt001


NowhereMan

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I have a Scotty Depthmaster and like it, but it takes some effort to mount it on a kayak.

I’ve never piloted a PA, but just wondering whether trolling for salmon from one is feasible...
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AngleDangle

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I installed the Scotty mini lake with the line swapped out for 80lb braid and running a 2lb cannon ball and it went smoothly when i tried it out.


DRT Yakbah

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I have the scotty lake troller on my Outback. It took a little bending on my part but I got it in pretty fine in the recessed gear tray. I use mine all the time in freshwater and love it. I do want to switch out the cable for heavy braid like Dangle mentioned because the cable hums and it can get annoying.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2018, 05:37:17 AM by DRT Yakbah »


NowhereMan

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... I do want to switch out the cable for heavy braid ...

For safety, I’d strongly recommend braid over cable. And, carry a knife that you can access instantly to cut the ball loose if need be.
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DRT Yakbah

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... I do want to switch out the cable for heavy braid ...

For safety, I’d strongly recommend braid over cable. And, carry a knife that you can access instantly to cut the ball loose if need be.

Absolutely correct. Another reason I'm switching to braid on it.  I'm slightly worried about losing the "one rotation = one foot" method but I can still see my dr ball on my ff at at least 60 ft deep (the deepest I've went with it) but am wondering how deep I can go and still register on the ff? Maybe go for rainbow braid with the color changes every few ft? I dunno yet.


SteveS doesn't kayak anymore

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Big old sharpie and hash marks ever 10 feet.


NowhereMan

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... I do want to switch out the cable for heavy braid ...

For safety, I’d strongly recommend braid over cable. And, carry a knife that you can access instantly to cut the ball loose if need be.

Absolutely correct. Another reason I'm switching to braid on it.  I'm slightly worried about losing the "one rotation = one foot" method but I can still see my dr ball on my ff at at least 60 ft deep (the deepest I've went with it) but am wondering how deep I can go and still register on the ff? Maybe go for rainbow braid with the color changes every few ft? I dunno yet.

I find that the depthmaster line counter is still pretty accurate---maybe 2' off at about 80' deep. And you can always just slow down until you see the ball on you FF to get the precise offset for any depth. So, not a big deal, IMHO.
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G-Force

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Not sure of the mounting options on the PA, however, he's a link and video for how I set mine up on a Revolution:

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=71837.msg816193
Greg
2015 Hobie Revolution


NowhereMan

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My setup is very similar to G-Force. Here's a very short video from last week...

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E Kayaker

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... I do want to switch out the cable for heavy braid ...

For safety, I’d strongly recommend braid over cable. And, carry a knife that you can access instantly to cut the ball loose if need be.

Absolutely correct. Another reason I'm switching to braid on it.  I'm slightly worried about losing the "one rotation = one foot" method but I can still see my dr ball on my ff at at least 60 ft deep (the deepest I've went with it) but am wondering how deep I can go and still register on the ff? Maybe go for rainbow braid with the color changes every few ft? I dunno yet.

If you're not moving when you set the depth you should be able to see it all the way down. Once you start moving, the deeper you are, the more likely it will move out the view of the FF.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

The charm of fishing is that it is the pursuit of what is elusive but attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope.  ~John Buchan


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The Scotty lake troller is the cheapest easiest option, and if getting the weight up while you fight the fish is not a priority, it may be the best choice.     I don't like it because it takes both hands to for parts of the operation of winding it up.  If the seas are bumpy, a horizontal DR spool has a bigger chance of jumping the spool and jamming on the base than an upright spool.  However if the seas get bumpy, I usually bring in the DR due to the added risk of flipping.   I picked up a used Cannon lake troller off Craigs list, shortened the boom, cut off the rod holder and mounted it just behind the seat on my PA14.   Used a piece of polyethylene cutting board inside the hull to reinforce the mount area.  I liked it so much that when it finally wore out, I replaced it a uni-troll 5 modified similarly.  I use mine offshore with up to 6lbs of weight.  For my most recent kayak upgrade, built a PVC rod holder mount for the DR and attached it in one of the PA14's rod holder without drilling any holes in the kayak's hull.  Many other anglers get by attaching break away weights to their lines, but to me the DR is an essential tool for increasing catches.


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I'd also reccomend mounting it behind your seat (on your strong side) and reinforce the base with hdpe or cutting board. I have the Scotty lake troller, but only use it for trout/kokes in lakes. And only use it on my pedal yaks...because it's kind of a hassle to deploy your rig & troll while paddling.
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 :smt006

  Plus 1 more here for the Scotty Lake troller. Yes my steel cable HUM's up a symphony while moving! :smt012 its pitch does change as I vary my trolling speed too.  Most annoying.  I plan to change the cable out, but have not done so yet.  Glad to hear my install is not the only one to "Sing"   
  I have mine on my OB's left side just behind the seat, I have a steel plate as a backing plate for the Scotty quick mount.  I also attached a leash to the DR and always clip the leash to DR prior to installing it on hull. (I lost one down rigger in Lexington by not leashing it to hull.)



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