NorCal Kayak Anglers
Kayak Fishing Zone => General Fishing Tips => Topic started by: mako1 on February 01, 2008, 03:09:50 PM
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With all the rains blowing out the rivers, it's making me crazy not going after something, so I'm thinking of sturgeon out of China Camp. My question is, can my river anchor do the job? I've gone after sturgeon in a pb plenty, and am aware of the flows. In the yak, I'm not planning on fishing very deep, 10/15 feet at the most, and staying out of the raging flows. Will a 10 or 15 lb pyramid do the job? I don't see why not. The tides after this weekend look good!
I appreciate any input.
Fish-on!
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It's more than you need I use a 6 pounder my self with a 3 pound ball
zip tied to the top of the anchor this will hold in the fastest of tides :smt002
hay man I am off all week till monday after next make shure you post when you go
because I can go :smt007
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I am by no means an authority on the subject - I haven't even pimped for an anchor yet - but I think the most important element is having the ability to quick release should you need to ditch your anchor, whether it's for safety reasons or should you be lucky enough to enjoy a sleigh ride.
We'll see how much I've learned based upon what the experts chime in with. :smt004
Michael
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Hey Juan, I think 15 lbs is enough for your hobie, but I think you really need the quick release...
I made mine in like 30 mins at the boat ramp parking lot.... It cost me probably 30 bucks (but 10lb mushroom weight probably cost me the most).
I lost mine on the last trip because the anchor got stuck while I was picking up the sturgeon on the yak, and the yak started taking some water, so I had to let it go. If I would have stayed there like that in the rip current, I probably would have taken in more water in the boat because of the sturgeon's drag, so the quick release is very helpful!
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Naoaki, I made some of the pyramid weights. They are about 5 to 7 pounds. Do you need one? I have about a dozen of them. Got the mold from Fishim (Mark) and made a bunch of them. If you have some lead you want to get rid of, we could trade. If not and you need one, let me know and we can call it even.
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Juan~
Would it work? Yea it would. Would I advise against it? Yea I would.
I am a firm believer in a quick release anchor out there.
Number one reason is for safety. Number two reason is that if you hook that hog dino the last thing you want to be doing is fumbling around with an anchor and rope.
Just my .02
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Juan-
That's how I lost a big'un... it got tangled up in my anchor line. I was using my drift anchor set up instead of a sturgeon quick release set up. Oh well... live and learn. But, a quick release is easy to rig up. Instead of a bow line... use a stern line, a couple of carbines and a little float and whalla... your set. Your pyramid weight should hold you no problemo. Good luck out there...
Freddie
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http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6401.0.html
check out my setup it is kinda $$ but it works perfect and you can
run a drift chute on it to :smt006
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Naoaki, I made some of the pyramid weights. They are about 5 to 7 pounds. Do you need one? I have about a dozen of them. Got the mold from Fishim (Mark) and made a bunch of them. If you have some lead you want to get rid of, we could trade. If not and you need one, let me know and we can call it even.
That would be awesome!!! :smt007
I need it especially for the river.
I have some salmon balls that I can trade...
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,6401.0.html
check out my setup it is kinda $$ but it works perfect and you can
run a drift chute on it to :smt006
& Duane, as always insanely nice! :salut:
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Tried my bay anchor setup for the first time today in a big tide and lots of wind. Worked like a champ and I never moved. 3 LB grappling anchor, 3 Ft of chain and 75 Ft of rope. Used Mooch's (thanks) quick release system that is cheap and easy to use. The whole setup worked great.
Matt
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Naoaki, PM me so that sometime we can meet up and I can get you an anchor :smt006
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Heres my Sturgeon anchor rig, its similar to Totes.
Overall view, a length of line tied to the rear pad eye. The other end passes through a quick release wedge style cleat with a fairlead(eye) on it. Everything clips together with carabiners, there are no knots except on the anchor and rear pad eye. You lift up on the line in the cleat and it slides free from the carabiner. The carabiner on the line winder lets me adjust the length of anchor line(up to 120ft) for 50ft of water.
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=39846&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=2e31eaec472a6a076c2e1d782f673c9f)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=39848&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=2e31eaec472a6a076c2e1d782f673c9f)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=39850&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=2e31eaec472a6a076c2e1d782f673c9f)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=39852&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=2e31eaec472a6a076c2e1d782f673c9f)
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The simplicity of this setup is awesome! Great work to the inventor!! I'm really considering this system for the Caddyak.
Only question I have to all those who use them is how easy is it to reset? Do you need to shimmy all the way to the back of the yak to get that rope that's attached to the stern or is there a better technique?
Z
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Hey Mark,
That's a real nice looking anchor system. I hope you don't mind if I give you "the sincerest form of flattery" and copy that right down to the last carabiner. I have sturgeon about 2 miles away from my house in the Willamette River and I'm tired of reading posts about all of you NorCal guys catching them this winter.
Z, I may be wrong, but I think if you paddle backwards a few strokes the end of the line will come along side enough to grab it.
Brian
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I use the same set-up as Fishim but my rope is a bungee instead of static line. It will absorb impact better and has a weaker breaking strength. Carabiners are a weak link in the salt unless you spring for the big buck powder coated ones and maintain them vigorously with corossion lock. Brass is the better maritime alternative. The jam cleat is a good way to go but a cam cleat is smaller and can be reversed. It's holding power is twice as good but it cost three times as much at the sailing parts store. I've said many times before and will concur again that a bombproof quick release system is essential when anchoring a fishing kayak in any water.
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Mine is basically like Shimmys but I don't use a clip, I just pass the line through the float loop. I also have an open top cleat so there is no way a tangle can prevent ditching the anchor. It has been my experience that with a 5-pound anchor, there is no need for an additional weight, salmon balls are needed on 3 and 1.5 pound folding anchors. This set-up is super basic and very effective.
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[/quote]I use the same set-up as Fishim but my rope is a bungee instead of static line. It will absorb impact better and has a weaker breaking strength. Carabiners are a weak link in the salt unless you spring for the big buck powder coated ones and maintain them vigorously with corossion lock. Brass is the better maritime alternative. The jam cleat is a good way to go but a cam cleat is smaller and can be reversed. It's holding power is twice as good but it cost three times as much at the sailing parts store. I've said many times before and will concur again that a bombproof quick release system is essential when anchoring a fishing kayak in any water.
Hawk is right about carabiners and the need to break away easy(for safety). The clips below water are marine stainless that I oil once a year whether they need it or not. The alum. one on the float is above water most of the time and really doesn't need to open to work. I was going to add bungie but the skinny nylon is so stretchy it works fine. The jam cleat works great one handed and is also used for my drift anchor rig. I can lower,raise, or dump the anchor with one hand. I looked at other set-ups trolleys,etc. but this seemed to be the best K.I.S.S. system for my infrequent anchoring.
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The simplicity of this setup is awesome! Great work to the inventor!! I'm really considering this system for the Caddyak.
Only question I have to all those who use them is how easy is it to reset? Do you need to shimmy all the way to the back of the yak to get that rope that's attached to the stern or is there a better technique?
Z
Hey Z~
Brian is right. Just a few strokes backwards and the float comes right to ya. Just make sure you paddle so the float comes along the same side as your quick release rope.
if it gets REALLy rippi' out there you can always break loose and paddle back to get it. Or come back another day when it isn't so bad. :smt044
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Last nite I came up with a pretty simple foolproof release. I was using a borrowed Kayak I didn't want to make any changes to.
I used a quick release strap sorta like the old style safety belts, it can be attached anywhere. I attached it to a little strap loop that was all ready on the handle that the release won't fit thru works great won't rust can be use to attach other things and it doesn't bang against the side of the yak in choppy water like a metal clip does. Sorry for the blurry photo I guess my cam doesn't like Mango. If there is any intrest I can take some more tomorrow.
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Mike That's a good choice for a quick release. All of my waist worn tow systems use this buckle but they have added this little ball so in hectic situations you can release it easier. This innovation came out of whitewater kayaking where river guides saw a need for an addition to such buckles. It might be overkill for a fishing kayak but I bet by next year we'll all be charging class IV standing up, it could come in handy.
I've used this Biner in the salt for the last five years and it's held up well but is now pretty tight at the hinge. It cost more but has outlasted all of my aluminum biners. The plastic piece can hold the gate open and the lip is toothless so line can't catch.
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Ok, I've been thinking about this "quick release system" subject for a while, and I've looked at all these pulley and beaner systems. Looks like a lot more complicated than it needs to be. I'm thinking KIS here. How about an upright fork at the rear of your yak that you can place the line in to direct it out the back after dropping the anchor, and then secure the line in your jam cleat next to your seat. Tie a float on the end of the line. Then when you have to release for a sleigh ride, just pull it up out of the cleat, raise your arm to clear the fork and throw it overboard. this could be performed with one hand very quickly. Too simple...? Thoughts?
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Jonesz as long as you could put the line in the hook that should work fine, keep in mind swinging with the wind and tide.
If you know the depth you are anchoring all you need is a quick release, enough line wrapped around a buoy tied to an anchor, no winder.
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Hey Z~
Brian is right. Just a few strokes backwards and the float comes right to ya. Just make sure you paddle so the float comes along the same side as your quick release rope.
if it gets REALLy rippi' out there you can always break loose and paddle back to get it. Or come back another day when it isn't so bad. :smt044
Done! Rigging it up! Thanks Tote/Bsteves
Z
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I've looked at all these pulley and beaner systems.
Hey!!!...mine works great! and it IS simple! :smt044
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Ok, I've been thinking about this "quick release system" subject for a while, and I've looked at all these pulley and beaner systems. Looks like a lot more complicated than it needs to be. I'm thinking KIS here. How about an upright fork at the rear of your yak that you can place the line in to direct it out the back after dropping the anchor, and then secure the line in your jam cleat next to your seat. Tie a float on the end of the line. Then when you have to release for a sleigh ride, just pull it up out of the cleat, raise your arm to clear the fork and throw it overboard. this could be performed with one hand very quickly. Too simple...? Thoughts?
That was exactly my first design. I tested it out at Sailor Bar on the American and it seemed to work fine. I used it during the sturgeon derby and it SUCKED @SS big time!!! DO NOT DO THIS.
I even removed the photos I posted of this.
When the current is ripping it is a BEOTCH to get the rope in the fork. You have to turn around way too much to even make an attempt. The rope WILL get tangled around the fork. Not too much fun sliding all the way to the very rear of the kayak in ripping current to get it untangled.
It is a horrible design and will cause you nothing but grief. I try a lot of different ideas and have NO problem admitting when one sucks. This one sucks. Learn from my mistake.
The release system I use now is far superior to that. It is much easier to use, much easier to install and a lot safer all around.
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Thanks for posting that Tote, we've all tried things that seem good on paper but don't work so well when the rubber meets the road. Trial and error is all we have in this still young sport.