NorCal Kayak Anglers

Kayak Zone => Gearing Up and Rigging Up => Topic started by: Tote on January 29, 2009, 02:47:46 PM

Title: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Tote on January 29, 2009, 02:47:46 PM
This topic is going to cover the Quick Release Anchor System (QRAS).
There are plenty of ways to anchor a kayak. So why would anyone want or need a QRAS?
Most use it so they can soak bait, hook into that monster fish and go for a sleigh ride but it also acts as a safety feature when anchored in heavy current.
The idea of a QRAS for your kayak is three fold.
First, it allows you to be in current and remain stationary.
Second, it allows you to be able to break free from the stationary position INSTANTLY, when YOU choose to do so, with almost zero effort involved. Not only is this important when playing a huge fish but it is just as important from a safety aspect. One of the worst mistakes a kayaker can make is to have their kayak tethered to the anchor line in heavy current without a QRAS. If something big snags the anchor line, such as a submerged drifting log, and starts pulling the kayak under water there is little or no time to mess around with knots or break out a knife to cut the anchor line.  Bad things happen in an instant and usually without warning. The kayaker needs to be able to break free and break free NOW without hesitation.
Third, after you have broken free from your anchor line you want to be able to retrieve your anchor.
This design is simple to install, easy to use, and most important VERY effective.
There are two basic components. The quick release is one component and the anchor float is the other.
For the quick release you will need the following:
1) A ten foot length of 3/8’’ hollow braid poly rope. This is the yellow rope that you buy in a bag at Home Depot. You want this kind of rope because it floats.
2) An eye pad, preferably stainless steel, and the hardware to secure it to your kayak. If you have inside access to the rear of the kayak I would recommend using nuts, bolts and washers. If not then you will have to go with rivets. Use the aircraft grade black anodized rivets, not the ones you get from the hardware store. Check online for these. Many kayak outfitters carry them.
3) Either a 5/16’’ clamcleat or a cam cleat that is large enough to accommodate the 3/8’’ poly rope and the hardware to install it. Both have their own merits.
The clamcleat is less expensive, about 75% less than the cam cleat, has no moving parts and is easier to install using either rivets or nuts and bolts.
The cam cleat gives you a quicker more solid grip and puts less wear on the rope. However, this has moving parts and cannot be riveted into place.
Whichever cleat you decide on be sure you do not have to the thread the rope THROUGH any part of it. You should be able to lay the rope over it and have it lock into place. If you do decide on the clamcleat get the 5/16’’ clamcleat even though the poly braid is 3/8’’. The poly braid is hollow so the 5/16’’ clamcleat is the right size for this kind of rope.
4) Goop; marine or plumbers works fine.
5) BIC lighter.
6) Roll of electrical tape.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44290&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

For the anchor component you will need the following.
1) A 3/8’’ thick 12’’ to 16’’ long bungee cord .
2) A four foot and a three foot piece of nylon braid rope. Choose this over the hollow poly braid because it holds a knot better.
3) A big high visibility float which you can secure a rope to both ends. A white boat fender bumper works great but the choice is yours.
Keep in mind you will need an anchor, line, and something to keep the line together. Everyone seems to have their own system. My suggestion here is to see what others have and figure out what will work best for you. I will give what I think is the easiest set up to put together but I recommend you look around and see not only what you think will work best for you but also what you are capable of making.
4) Stainless steel carabineer.
5) 100 feet of 5/16’’ nylon braid rope.
6) Plastic extension cord winder. They are usually about a dollar at hardware stores.
7) A 5lb. Navy anchor.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44292&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44343&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Let’s get started.
The eye pad will be installed as far back on the kayak as possible. You are going to install it above the water line on either the right or left side of the kayak and parallel to the kayak. Make sure the location does not interfere with anything such as handles or rudders.
Take your 10’ poly braid rope and electrical tape and tape one end of the rope to the kayak where you plan on installing the eye pad.
Run the rope along the same side of the kayak to the desired location of your cam or clamcleat and tape the rope there.
The location of the cleat should be within easy grasp and should not interfere with your paddle stroke.
Take a look at the rope and make sure it does not go into the tank well or interfere with any other part of the kayak or any gear that will be on the kayak. If it does, adjust it accordingly.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44294&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44296&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)
(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44298&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Once you are comfortable with the location of the rope you are ready to install the eye pad.

Find a drill bit the same size as the hardware you are using to secure
the eye pad. A 3/16’’ drill bit works perfect.
Mark the location of the eye pad and drill only one hole.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44300&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Place the eye pad over the drilled hole. Insert, but do not secure, one screw or rivet to keep the eye pad from moving. Drill the other hole.


(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44302&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Remove eye pad and fill both holes with GOOP.


(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44304&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

You can now finish installing the eye pad.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44306&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


You will repeat the same process when installing the clamcleat or cam cleat.
PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION  to the direction you install the cleat.
You want the rope to release when you pull forward and you want the rope to lock in place when it is being pulled from the back. Check twice, install once!!!!!!

Tie a knot in one end of the poly rope. Use a little GOOP in the knot to keep it from ever coming undone and use the lighter to melt the tag end of the rope just above the knot. Thread the rope through the eye pad until it stops at the knot.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44308&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Lay the rope in the cleat and pull from the back until it locks into place. Cut the rope about 10’’ to 14’’ from the cleat. I know you started with ten feet of poly braid. This was to allow room for error and to accommodate all lengths of kayaks.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44310&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Take your electrical tape and wrap it as tight as you can twice around the end of the poly braid you just cut leaving about 1/4” of rope exposed. Melt this end with the lighter all the way down to the tape. Leave the tape on. The tightly melted end combined with the tape makes it much easier to thread through the eye pad.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44312&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

It should look something like this.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44314&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


CONGRATULATIONS!!!
The quick release component is done.

Let’s move on to the anchor float.
The goal is to have the float 1 to 2 feet behind the kayak.
Take the bungee cord and fold it in half and loosely tie a knot at the end. This will make a loop out of the bungee cord.  Press the sides of the loop together. The length of the loop should be 4 to 6 inches long.
Tie the 4’ nylon braid to the bungee loop. Try to incorporate this knot into the knot in the bungee cord. Once the knots are tied pull the bungee knot tight and trim the excess tag ends of the bungee cord.
Tie the other end of the nylon braid to your float.
It should look like this when you are done.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44316&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Tie the three foot piece of nylon braid to the opposite end of the float then tie the carabineer to that. The distance between the float and carabineer should be about 8-10 inches.
It should look like this when you are done.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44318&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


Using the extension cord winder and the 100’ nylon braid rope tie the rope to the middle of the winder then tie a loop in the rope a few inches from that.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44320&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Leaving the loop exposed, wind the remaining 100’ of rope. Once the rope has been wound clip any excess length of plastic from the winder and tie on the anchor.
Clip the carabineer to the loop and you are done.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44341&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


*The little red float on the winder is optional and is not necessary for the QRAS. I did this because I use this rope for other applications as well.
Definitely do not attach the carabineer directly to the winder. If you do that and the winder breaks you will loose your anchor. By attaching it to the loop in the rope you avoid this risk.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!  Your QRAS is now complete.

Here’s how to use it.
Hold onto the winder and drop anchor. Let out at least 2 feet of rope for every 1 foot in depth.
Once you let out the desired amount of rope make a half hitch around the hook on the winder to keep the rope from going out any further.
Thread the poly braid through the bungee loop.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44325&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

DO NOT LET GO OF THE POLY BRAID ROPE!!!
Toss the float and winder into the water. As the kayak drifts down current you will notice the bungee loop sliding down the poly rope.
Once the bungee loop gets to the end of the rope, at the eye pad, you will stop drifting. Lock the rope into the cleat.
It will look like this in the water, with more anchor rope out of course.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44327&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


If you want to pick up and move to another location simply take a stroke or two backwards. The bungee loop will slide forward right up to the cleat. You can pull it off, pull up anchor and be on your way.
When you need to release from the anchor just give a little pull forward on the poly braid rope and toss it to the side.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44329&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

As your kayak drifts down current the rope will slide through the bungee loop.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44331&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

And soon

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44333&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

You will be

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44335&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)

Completely free.

(http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=44337&g2_serialNumber=1&g2_GALLERYSID=ba9c2d73591df45b7e8d573bf1be9229)


Once you have accomplished your mission it is time to get things back in order.
Take a stroke or two backwards so the poly rope comes to your side.
Put it back into the cleat and go to your anchor float. Hopefully it isn’t TOO far away.
Now for the disclaimer.
Involvement in dangerous sports and related activities such as kayaking carries a significant risk of damage to property, personal injury or death. Participate at your own risk!
This has been presented for informational purposes only. If you decide to apply all or any part of this you choose to do so at your own risk.
If anyone has any questions you know where to reach me.
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: AlsHobieOutback on January 29, 2009, 02:56:25 PM
Tote, thanks so much!  This is one of the best do-it-yourself posts I have seen yet! 
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: dilbeck on January 29, 2009, 03:02:34 PM
FABULOUS!!!!  Thanks Mike!

I hope to set mine up soon.  Quick question though, instead of installing another pad eye, why didn't you just tie the rope to the metal ring on the stern?

Michael





Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: polepole on January 29, 2009, 03:16:51 PM
Nice tutorial Tote,

I might add one bit of useful info.  That bumper buoy looks a little on the small side.  I used to use one of that size (well, still do sometimes) and I once had it dive under in the current.  I had to wait for the current to slow before it popped back up.

-Allen
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: Tote on January 29, 2009, 03:36:24 PM
FABULOUS!!!!  Thanks Mike!
I hope to set mine up soon.  Quick question though, instead of installing another pad eye, why didn't you just tie the rope to the metal ring on the stern?

Because the instructions would not have been as informative as it would only apply to that particular model of kayak.

Quote
I might add one bit of useful info.  That bumper buoy looks a little on the small side

It is bigger than you think, but I see your point. It is not what I use anymore. I have an eyesore of a float/line reel but it ROCKS!!!
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: polepole on January 29, 2009, 04:16:32 PM
It is bigger than you think, but I see your point. It is not what I use anymore. I have an eyesore of a float/line reel but it ROCKS!!!


Yeah.  Next to the linewinder it looks small.  But with the anchor in the pic, it looks large.

-Allen
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: piski on January 29, 2009, 05:45:34 PM
Excellent post, Tote. Sets a new standard for step-by-step rigging instructions.
Plus, you've coined a new 4-letter word! "Git yer QRAS off my lawn!"

Seriously though, this is great considering the risk factors involved with anchoring.

BTW, I have an eyelet on the stern of my yak that the end of the release line (poly braid) is tied to. It's like the ring in your pics that dilbeck mentioned. I understand you used a deck loop/pad eye here to apply to all kayaks, but has anyone come across any issues with attaching the release line to the very stern of the boat? 

Also, I'm not using any bungee on my anchor line. Is it more for comfort because of the shock absorption or are there other factors as well?
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: Jedmo on January 29, 2009, 07:16:02 PM
Tote, I think what you have just share with us is the most simplest anchor
system I've ever seen. Cheap and very effective. I have made something similar
to what you have just to get by for that sturgeon madness we have been
having. I am going to leave it as is just because it works great rather than
fooling around on anchor trolley system.

Jedmo
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: SBD on January 29, 2009, 07:39:18 PM
Tote:

Nice update on your old genius.  This system is soooo simple but works super good.
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: SharkByte on January 29, 2009, 09:22:43 PM
wow - I was just looking for an anchor post...this is really, really great info.  Thanks!
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: Tote on January 29, 2009, 09:26:49 PM
has anyone come across any issues with attaching the release line to the very stern of the boat? 

Also, I'm not using any bungee on my anchor line. Is it more for comfort because of the shock absorption or are there other factors as well?

I like it on the side of the kayak as opposed the the very rear point because the line will pretty much stay on the same side as the cleat. It is a hassle if your line ends up on one side and your cleat is on the other, but to each his own.
I use the bungee cord for two reasons; shock absorption and it keeps a rigid loop. The rigid loop makes for a cleaner release and the loop will not twist up and become tight or knotted around the release line.
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: ravensblack on January 29, 2009, 10:35:57 PM
I set mine up using Totes advice. It works great. Plus I got to try it out first hand on the 18th when I realeased for a sturgeon fight. I tied a stainless ring to the end of my anchor line. The release line is attached to the rear carry handle on my t15 which is on a shock cord. I then play the line out a bit so the anchor line end is about 2 feet from the rear of the kayak. Giving me a very straight line when current is running. I also used some climbing rpoe for the release line.  It seemed to hold better in the clamcleat. This was all based on Totes idea. I tend to overcomplicate shiot.
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: piski on January 29, 2009, 11:28:22 PM
Quote from: Tote
I use the bungee cord for two reasons; shock absorption and it keeps a rigid loop. The rigid loop makes for a cleaner release and the loop will not twist up and become tight or knotted around the release line.

Yes, just a loop in the rope could bind up after some time tugging & wear. Ravens' stainless ring is good for that reason as well, since it's a smooth rigid loop to slide right off.

Either way, it points to importance of always checking your equipment before paddling out.
Title: Re: Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: jonesz on February 05, 2009, 12:00:39 AM
Nice tutorial Tote. Thanks for the effort posting that up. I use a very similar system. Only difference is instead of drilling and mounting the rear loop, I just larksfoot my release rope around the rear carry handle of the yak. (one less instalation step is all) Take it off when I get back in before loading on the truck. I use the jam cleat as well. Like no moving parts, and no rust potential.  Good job!  :smt023
Title: Re: TUTORIAL~Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: bmb on November 03, 2009, 03:33:29 PM
bump to the top for 2009 sturgeon season.
Title: Re: TUTORIAL~Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: jonesz on December 16, 2009, 09:13:51 PM
I do the same thing except instead of drilling and mounting the eylet I just use the rear handle to tie into. That system works great. Nice pictorial Tote.
Title: Re: TUTORIAL~Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: mooch on December 16, 2009, 11:53:04 PM
I'm gonna sticky this topic since "anchor set-ups" are frequent questions asked.

Thanks for posting this Tote!

here's my version:

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,4993.0.html

*If any of you any of you have other versions, please post it here / thank you!
Title: Re: TUTORIAL~Step-By-Step Quick Release Anchor System
Post by: golfish on March 23, 2010, 09:31:19 AM
Kudos to Tote for the excellent write up and to this site. I find if I search here I will usually find an answer and not reinvent the wheel. Looked for a rear anchor setup for fly fishing a river and this will work.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: UrbanAngler on August 19, 2011, 07:16:16 PM
Just wanted to say thanks Tote for the great idea. I had some frustrating problems with my anchor trolley when trying to anchor from the stern for sturgeon fishing. Your QRAS system with photos and instructions was the solution I was looking for. I made some modifications to suit the type of kayak I have and installed it. Tested it out today and it works PERFECTLY!  :smt003

I've posted pics of the set up on my fishing blog:

http://cityangler.blogspot.com/2011/08/quick-release-anchor-system-qras.html (http://cityangler.blogspot.com/2011/08/quick-release-anchor-system-qras.html)

www.cityfishing.ca (http://www.cityfishing.ca)

Thanks again for the great idea!

-DL
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: StephKillsit on July 11, 2012, 05:06:39 PM
Just wanted to say thanks Tote for the great idea. I had some frustrating problems with my anchor trolley when trying to anchor from the stern for sturgeon fishing. Your QRAS system with photos and instructions was the solution I was looking for. I made some modifications to suit the type of kayak I have and installed it. Tested it out today and it works PERFECTLY!  :smt003

I've posted pics of the set up on my fishing blog:

http://cityangler.blogspot.com/2011/08/quick-release-anchor-system-qras.html (http://cityangler.blogspot.com/2011/08/quick-release-anchor-system-qras.html)

www.cityfishing.ca (http://www.cityfishing.ca)

Thanks again for the great idea!

-DL

I am on my way to West Marine soon but wondering, will this setup work with Hobie Outback that has the rudder in the back or will the rope get tied up in the back?
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: bmb on July 11, 2012, 10:00:21 PM
rudder up when anchored. if you have the old style rudder that doesnt stow, I would think it might get caught.  I would probably do an eyelet a half foot off the rear with the tilt up rudder on the hobies.  if its the twist and stow anchor i'd just tie off to the handle and make sure its on your right side since the twist and stow comes up to the left.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Ken_P on October 24, 2012, 09:20:29 PM
My kayak came with a deck cleat and anchor trolley. I'm thinking of attaching one end to the ring on the trolley and the other end tie a quick release half hitch. One tug on the rope & I'm free. The anchor trolley stops short of the bow & stearn, I know this would be fine on a lake, but what about the rivers (Sac & AR). My other option is to tie off to the rear handle and not use the trolley.

Also my float is a small boat fender 13L X 4" diameter. Do you think this will work in the rivers?
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: ybloc on October 24, 2012, 09:24:58 PM
My kayak came with a deck cleat and anchor trolley. I'm thinking of attaching one end to the ring on the trolley and the other end tie a quick release half hitch. One tug on the rope & I'm free. The anchor trolley stops short of the bow & stearn, I know this would be fine on a lake, but what about the rivers (Sac & AR). My other option is to tie off to the rear handle and not use the trolley.

Also my float is a small boat fender 13L X 4" diameter. Do you think this will work in the rivers?

Im a noob and just completed my first QRAS. I cant speak out of experience but this thread might help.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=41659.0 (http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=41659.0)
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Ken_P on October 24, 2012, 09:57:13 PM
I did not see page 2. I was thinking with the loop end around 1/2 of the cleat, if the kayak turned the loop would pop off the cleat or I could pull the line.

If it comes down to it I could buy a clam cleat & hopefully use the existing holes from the deck cleat.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: steveislost on October 24, 2012, 10:37:47 PM
My kayak came with a deck cleat and anchor trolley. I'm thinking of attaching one end to the ring on the trolley and the other end tie a quick release half hitch. One tug on the rope & I'm free. The anchor trolley stops short of the bow & stearn, I know this would be fine on a lake, but what about the rivers (Sac & AR). My other option is to tie off to the rear handle and not use the trolley.

Also my float is a small boat fender 13L X 4" diameter. Do you think this will work in the rivers?

The farther off point your anchor line connects to your kayak the more the force of the water will push you to the side.  It will also make it easier for your yak to twist and cause you to end up sideways (not good) especially if you are running it through your anchor trolley as the flex in the anchor trolley will be pulled out and down tipping your kayak the same (also not good).  Directly to the back is optimum and cause a lot let pressure on your whole anchor system.  In current you are rarely going to be using the trolley to adjust your angles versus on a lake or still water.  For a float you can get away with that smaller boat fender but make sure you utilize a lot more anchor line out because it will get sucked under rather easily.  I use a 5" X 22" and can still run into problems on the Sac.  Remember, at the moment, the American is running around 1700 CFS on average which is pretty low.  I would say on average 3000-4000 is more realistic the rest of the year.  So what you see now on the American is not what it is going to be like in a month from now.  The Sacramento River around Sac city is always flowing fairly strong.  It doesn't look it because it is fairly wide, but watch any of the launching buoys and you can see there is a lot of torque.  You don't want to be messing around there.  Down by the Delta it becomes a little bit more tricky as that is the beginning (probably Clarksburg and downriver) where the tide affects the current.  If your fishing down towards Suisun it really becomes critical so always set up as if it is extreme outgoing tide as you will see extreme depth and speed changes. 
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Ken_P on October 25, 2012, 05:06:10 AM
Thanks I did not know that about the anchor trolley. I don't hear much about it being used. I wanted to see if what I already had would work, but at the same time I don't want to donate a bunch of gear or worse.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Raynman10 on October 29, 2012, 03:34:46 PM
Thanks Mike
 I finished mine today. I followed your steps and materials and am very pleased. Now I need to get it wet! I look forward to Dino season!
I appreciate your taking the time to help all
Best
Raynman
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: TheDudeAbides on November 15, 2012, 10:16:52 AM
Just finished my first QRAS install (one for my touring boat, one for the party-barge tandem) last night, out in the backyard at 11pm drilling on my damn pool toy while all the neighbor's dogs were barking at me <LOL> I am really looking forward to trying this system out in some of my local sloughs!

So far the majority of my anchor needs are to avoid getting blown around by the wind (as opposed to fighting current) but I am very aware how precarious our balance is in a kayak, in comparison to an average boat, and how dire the consequences can be for making a mistake, so I was very leery of even using an anchor until I found a system that I felt would be ulra-safe and foolproof, I feel really good about this setup.

And besides having a great and safe QRAS setup, I really appreciated the tip about how to set a pad-eye (ie, drill one hole, fit the anchorage before drilling the second, then set it all in adhesive) that one little tip is going to be used A LOT for me, and I already have way more confidence in the pad eyes I set using that method over the previous sets I have done!
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Tote on November 15, 2012, 08:28:57 PM
Thanks Dude.
Glad I could be of help to ya.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: fisher on December 25, 2012, 08:11:22 PM
Thank you for the detail instruction, Tote.

I have a question on anchor types.  It appears that some people use grapnel anchors, while others use navy anchors. I am fishing mainly for rockfishes and lingcods. Would grapnel anchors work better for rocky bottoms?
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: FishingForTheCure on December 25, 2012, 11:11:30 PM
My personal feeling is to not anchor up while rock fishing.  The ocean can be a bit unpredictable so I have mixed feelings on anchoring in the ocean(kayak).  I find it much better to clip off to the kelp or use a drift sock.  Just my personal opinion.
~Bill
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: RacinRob on December 25, 2012, 11:30:52 PM
If you anchor in the ocean be prepared to not only lose your anchor, but probably flip your kayak too. It is not safe. Too many variables with the swell unpredictability being the biggest.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: FishingForTheCure on December 25, 2012, 11:33:20 PM
It's generally not a good idea, and usually dificult, to anchor on rocky reefs.  If/when you do hook the anchor, your most likely not getting it back.  The drift sock works well!
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: fisher on December 26, 2012, 07:56:39 PM
FishingForTheCure and RacinRob,  thanks for suggestions! I gave up the idea of anchoring for rock fishing.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: AlsHobieOutback on December 26, 2012, 09:44:09 PM
FishingForTheCure and RacinRob,  thanks for suggestions! I gave up the idea of anchoring for rock fishing.
If your looking to fish for rockies on a windy day, give a kelp clip/anchor a try:

 (http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/catalog/kelpfloat.gif)

I have one, but usually just toss some kelp over my foot and pin it with my footpeg.  Then I can let go easily just by lifting up my foot.  You can also try a drift anchor, to slow you down in windy conditions, making it easier to fish vertically. :smt002
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: FishingForTheCure on December 26, 2012, 10:50:23 PM
FishingForTheCure and RacinRob,  thanks for suggestions! I gave up the idea of anchoring for rock fishing.
It's just a suggestion.  As you target certain species, you will learn what works best for you and innovative ways to make it better.

Bill
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: oceansniper on July 26, 2013, 01:22:43 PM
thanks for the great tips
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: mooch on July 28, 2013, 12:21:56 PM
...it's also good to have quick access to a knife in case your quick release is not quick enough  :smt045
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: noreligion on July 29, 2013, 12:27:23 AM
Rather than drilling holes to install a pad and cleat, I found it a lot easier to just tie the poly rope to the handles on each side on my kayak. The quick release is achieved by using a highwayman's knot on one or both sides.  The other advantage of using this approach is that the poly rope can be tossed around the bow of the kayak as easily as the stern in case you want to face upstream. A cleat will only hold in one direction, so the poly rope can only go around the stern.

-John
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on July 30, 2013, 08:49:24 AM
I am really surprised how few of you guys use a trolley system. In the UK it is the preferred method as it is very easy to switch from bow to stern anchoring if required, It also allows for the anchor to be retrieved at the stern or bows to make keep the kayak more stable than raising amidships.
It also makes dropping the anchor again much simpler as the is no need to re-thread through pad eyes.

We anchor regularly in the UK using grapnels in the main with at leas a metre of chain to keep the anchor flat to the sea bed and a warp of at least 3 times depth. Most of our locations would max out at 3-4 knots.  Are your tides much greater than this? Is this why some of you don't advocate anchoring?

Terry
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: RacinRob on July 30, 2013, 09:40:58 AM
Anchoring in the ocean is an accident waiting to happen. 3-10' swells, wind to 20 sometimes, extremely rocky bottoms. Anchor will no doubt get lifted off the bottom or stuck very easily.  If it gets stuck on the down swell and then you raise up 6' you will capsize. Rivers, no problem anytime.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: FishingForTheCure on July 30, 2013, 09:56:44 AM
To tag onto Mooch's not of a knife.....

   I found one of these & keep it at the READY for lines (fishing, downrigger, etc...)  NEVER know if or when you might get tangled with the bottom or a passing by trolling boat.  Less than $7 @ West Marine.  Mine is a high-vis. yellow.

~Bill
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on July 30, 2013, 12:14:39 PM
Anchoring in the ocean is an accident waiting to happen. 3-10' swells, wind to 20 sometimes, extremely rocky bottoms. Anchor will no doubt get lifted off the bottom or stuck very easily.  If it gets stuck on the down swell and then you raise up 6' you will capsize. Rivers, no problem anytime.

I have to disagree. That is the reason for a minimum of a warp at least 3 x depth and the length of chain on the anchor to keep it flatter. An anchor is designed to 'anchor' which means it gets stuck. If a bridle is used on the shaft or if the chain is attached to the bottom of the anchor with a shackle and a weak link to the eye at the top of the shaft an anchor can often be released.

Anchoring is a skill and as such should be taught by a competent person on the water. Used correctly and in not too extreme conditions it is safe and productive.

I have to caution on your comment ' Rivers, no problem anytime.' I would ask people to exercise the same caution on rivers as on the sea. Do not be misled into believing rivers are safe. THEY ARE NOT!

Sorry to appear confrontational in one of my first posts but feel duty bound to be frank.  :smt001

Terry
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: mooch on July 30, 2013, 01:18:16 PM
I did the anchor thing when I used to fish for sturgeon in the Bay. Never felt comfortable anchoring a kayak in moving water. IMO, kayaks and canoes were really not meant to be anchored.

*Although I don't have a problem using an anchor in a lake on calm conditions.

....just my 2 cents
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: RacinRob on July 30, 2013, 01:32:27 PM
No problem Terry. I really see no need to anchor in the ocean anyway. If you don't catch a fish in the first min or two in one spot you need to move. The other thing is in the ocean, at least here we are typically fishing from 60-180' of water. 3x that in rope is way too much to deal with out there. No need to worry about speaking your mind here.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: TheDudeAbides on July 30, 2013, 02:42:56 PM
(http://www.kayakfishingsupplies.com/catalog/kelpfloat.gif)

Oooooooh! I have one of these just tied to a carabiner, it is a pain in the ass to clip/unclip to the kayak, this is a much better rig! (Note to self!) :smt003
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on July 31, 2013, 01:46:30 AM
A lot of species we fish for in the UK are caught using a static bait so anchoring is essential.
Guys like these below fishing for skate in the Scottish sea lochs always fish at anchor. Depth? Between 450ft and 500ft.

I guess it is all down to local conditions and tactics.

Terry

Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: noreligion on August 11, 2013, 10:14:17 PM
I tried implementing this QR system last week and tried it out at an inland lake, although I chose to use a 3lbs folding anchor, 1/4 inch anchor line (5/16" appeared to be over-kill to me) and the Woods 2803 Mountable H-Frame Extension Cord Reel (amazon).

However, I ran into problems deploying the anchor because the anchor line would get hung-up in the extension code reel (line wrapped around one of the legs).

A friend of mine with a lot of sailing experience suggest using a sack or bag to store the anchor line, which is a very common practice in sailing. The rope should put in the sack using first-in-last out fashion. 

-John

Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: noreligion on August 12, 2013, 09:15:19 PM

Cut the ends of the extension cord reel at the bottom so they only stick out about 1/4 inch beyond the coiled rope. That should fix the problem. The sailing bag will be a real beotch to keep from deploying when in the water.

If the opening of the bag has a draw-string with one of those squeezable locks, then I think it would work great to prevent accidental deployment.

The main problem that I see with using a bag is that retrieving the anchor line and stuffing it back in the bag would be time consuming and will tend to get you more wet then necessary.

Doing some google searches, I found another option that look promising, which is a Swivel Handle Rope Reel. It appears that these are used commonly to store tow lines for water skiing. For anchor lines, deployment would be easy by just holding the center handle of the real over the side of the kayak and letting it spin. Also line retrieval would be fast by cranking both handles to rewind the rope back onto the reel. Does anyone have experience using one of these?
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Swivel-Handle-Reel (http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Swivel-Handle-Reel)
http://www.amazon.com/AIRHEAD-AHLW-1-Waterski-Towable-Winder/dp/B000OF72VG (http://www.amazon.com/AIRHEAD-AHLW-1-Waterski-Towable-Winder/dp/B000OF72VG)



Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on August 13, 2013, 09:31:20 AM
In the UK we tend to go for a Dive Reel as in the blog below:

http://kayakingangler.blogspot.co.uk/p/anchoring-set-up.html (http://kayakingangler.blogspot.co.uk/p/anchoring-set-up.html)

Terry
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on August 13, 2013, 01:48:15 PM
The usual set up is to have a short length of warp attached to the reel along with a buoy. The reel and buoy sit in the water and the extra warp goes through the carabiner and into a cleat. The caribiner then being 'trollied' fore or aft for anchoring depending on preference.

To quick release the short length is slipped from the cleat and let go, the buoy keeps the reel afloat and it can be recovered.

Terry
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: noreligion on August 14, 2013, 10:14:01 PM
In the UK we tend to go for a Dive Reel as in the blog below:
http://kayakingangler.blogspot.co.uk/p/anchoring-set-up.html (http://kayakingangler.blogspot.co.uk/p/anchoring-set-up.html)

This above design uses a very thin anchor line cord (I think it's 2mm), which is appealing because it is light and more compact. Also would allow you to carry a much longer line to anchor in deeper water. I suppose a thin cord is necessary to fit in that reel too.

Tote's design calls for 100 feet of 5/16’’ (~8mm) nylon braid rope, which I personally think is over-kill for a Kayak. So I went with 100' of 1/4" nylon braid rope. However, if I need to have more than 100' in the future, I'm planning to use Type III paracord, which is inexpensive, good for 550lbs and is only 4mm (~3/16").
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: izzetafox on August 15, 2013, 06:52:35 AM
I have about 80 metres of 3mm paracord on my reel the thinner line reduces drag on the warp significantly but the breaking strain is still more than needed. We work on about 3 times the depth for the warp but if in strong tides this can be increased to up to x5. Thus keeping the angle to the anchor as shallow as possible to promote more secure setting of the anchor tines.
By having a full length anchor trolley the anchor can be hauled at either the bow or stern thus not compromising stability which could occur if hauled amidships.

Terry
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: noreligion on August 24, 2013, 05:21:43 PM
Here is a 3# anchor using the AIRHEAD AHLW-1 Waterski Line Winder with 100' of 1/4" line.

Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: E Kayaker on September 15, 2013, 10:23:49 AM
How does that water ski reel work with weight on the end?
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Pescadoman66 on March 07, 2014, 10:35:31 PM
This is a great video and how I set up my anchor on my yak

http://youtu.be/iGe4oX3qsL8

Chris
Pescadoman66
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: E Kayaker on March 08, 2014, 04:59:45 PM
This is a great video and how I set up my anchor on my yak

http://youtu.be/iGe4oX3qsL8

Chris
Pescadoman66
At times I've thought it might be nice to be able to anchor to the front of my kayak. I could simply put on a second QRAS for the front. I understand the concept of a QRAS for safety, what are the benefits of a trolley?
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: FishReaper on July 19, 2014, 01:47:49 PM
Thanks for the video....I've been wanting to set up an anchor trolley system....this makes it easy and CHEAP!
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Tote on July 19, 2014, 02:53:58 PM
IMO~Trollies suck.
Less is more.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Dale L on July 19, 2014, 03:18:13 PM
On anchor line, I use the smallest diameter reasonable.  Anything put into the water creates drag (or force) when the current pushes on it.  Which in turn puts force towards pulling the anchor along the bottom.  Might not seem like much but it matters.

I just use an old 5# dive weight and am OK most places, plan to upgrade to a 5-7# pyramid, but don't plan on using anything with claws, gets stuck too easy in rocks and has little holding power in bay mud and sand (sturgeon).

When I say smallest reasonable I mean something you can still handle with comfort.  80# braid would work but I wouldn't want to handle it.  Currently I think my line is about 1/8" nylon braid.

Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: sonoramike on July 20, 2014, 04:39:47 PM
FYI lowes has these they come in 3 pack for $3.04. Picked them up today.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/21/megebuvy.jpg)
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: barefoot1 on July 21, 2014, 07:47:41 AM
+1    IMO~Trollies suck.<br />Less is more.<br/>

I used the QRAS in a real strong incoming tide on Montezuma Slough.  Line winder was a byatch to use in the strong current.  One of the guys I was with just stuffed his rope in a bag like a gym bag.  He would just anticipate his anchor point and throw out the whole 50', it worked well for him.  Winder works fine in calm water though.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: AlsHobieOutback on July 21, 2014, 11:03:57 AM
Why does this thread continue to be muddied up with thread jacks?  This is Totes QRAS system post.  Why not start a new post to discuss the benefits of other methods? 
Title: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: tazman222 on April 22, 2015, 08:40:53 PM
TOTE...
I just finished rigging my Jackson Cuda 14 with the QRS per your tutorial and all I can say is ...
THANK YOU FOR TIME AND EFFORT AND POSTING IT !!!!!!!
I also used someone elses advise on rigging a milkcrate securely, but for the life of me cannot remember who it was.
I do remember that the true test was if you could lift the crate and hold your Yak up then it was good to go...
Again, Thanks! It is really about members helping each other out that makes this truly fun.  :smt001
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: surf12foot on April 22, 2015, 11:13:45 PM
Thanks so much for posting. On my way to making one.
Title: Re: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial
Post by: Scurvy on July 21, 2016, 03:39:11 PM
I have about 80 metres of 3mm paracord on my reel the thinner line reduces drag on the warp significantly but the breaking strain is still more than needed. We work on about 3 times the depth for the warp but if in strong tides this can be increased to up to x5. Thus keeping the angle to the anchor as shallow as possible to promote more secure setting of the anchor tines.
By having a full length anchor trolley the anchor can be hauled at either the bow or stern thus not compromising stability which could occur if hauled amidships.

Terry

Terry, thx for your series of posts on this thread -- I have done a lot of research on the topic and agree with you 100%.  Good anchoring skills are considered an essential safety skill in the boating arena, and our kayaks are still boats so it applies to us too IMO.

Although I love the simplicity of the OP, I have the exact setup you have described for the very same convenience reasons:  I bought a stainless steel dive reel loaded w/ 400' of ~ 220# test braided nylon line, which I estimate to be plenty strong for anchoring a kayak due to the drag and stretch imparted on a properly scoped anchoring >3.5:1.  That dive reel came with a brass quick clip too and cost all of $60, and the handle can be configured in many different positions.  Yes, I use a rode chain that is attached to the bottom tip of the folding anchor, and then the chain is held to the line end eye with a 40# zip-tie, which I can break off for stuck retrievals.

-- Bradley

Obviously using a fish finder to select or KNOW one's anchorage can be the difference between success and failure.