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Topic: Hammer hooking grubs for surf Perch  (Read 6420 times)

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ZeeHokkaido

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I've been looking around to get my gear set for some surf Perch action and came across this alternative way of hooking your grub from www.fishtacochronicles.com. Instead of going all the way through the body, you just go 2-3 ribs from the front perpendicularly through the body.


www.fishtacochronicles.com:
"Although short bites will still occur, we actually hook more of those fish as there is no hook to "bump into" and they just keep biting their way up the grub until they are hooked."

"This method of hooking allows greater action as the grub is able to swing on the hook bend. Line twist is virtually eliminated because there is no curve to the bait as with the traditional method mentioned previously-the curved hook is what causes the bait to spin."

It also seems pretty cool in that when the fish is hooked the grub moves up the line and out of the way for easier unhooking.


Looks pretty interesting and will give it a try tomorrow.

Z
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jmairey

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I saw that on the 'big hammer' swimbait site last year. I posted about it, most don't like it.

I have tried it, and you catch fish, but I didn't notice anything magic happening.

plus you need a bigger hook than you need to use the other way. fine for big fish, but if you
like those confidence building dinks, then I like the traditional way.

I do get loops and things in my leader, but I think it comes on the cast and sink as much
as on the retrieve.

I do wonder about using a better swivel tho. sand gets in your basic crane or barrel
swivel and they stop working pretty quick. a ball bearing swivel for perch might be
cheating tho!

J
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Aaron

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Like J said,I've tried it and you will catch fish, but no real magic. I got quite a few short strikes and lost more grubs that way.Sharp #4 baitholder threaded all the way works for me.On a good day, I can catch a limit (or as many as I choose to keep) with one grub.

As for swivels,I agree most loops/knots occur on the cast and drop.A ballbearing swivel would work,but I don't get enough loops during an average session to make it worth changing from a quality brass snap swivel.I can always tie a new leader or bring a few pretied for derby fishing. :smt002
« Last Edit: February 11, 2007, 07:36:53 PM by Aaron »
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fishshim

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That method of hooking is like a bass dropshot rig.The wide gape short shank hooks allow more exposed point.
The  Spro brand swivels are a good alternative they are ultra small with good strength and function.I have used them for Steelhead,Stripers,and up to line shy Wahoo.


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Mark, good suggestion on the Spro.I've used them for albies and 'buts with great success.A bit pricey, but I'll give them a try for perching too.
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jmairey

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the small size of the spro also seems to keep out a fair amount of small sand grains which clog the larger crane or
barrel swivel.  but you need a bead so that the swivel doesn't slide inside the sinker.

I tend to re-use swivels and not notice they stopped swivelling.  that's probably a mistake.

here's a couple swivel links:

http://www.barlowstackle.com/swivels-snaps.html

http://spro.com/shop/
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alien

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You all have great points on the gear we all chose to use.

J, Your right about the sand getting into the swivel causing it to freeze up. What a messy twist I get when that malfunction of the swivel happens.

 I recently started to use the spro swivels, that was mention earlier,for perching. In fact I've been using the same one for the last few time out. With no maintenance the swivel seem to be holding up. Spro swivels are  worth the money :smt001

As far as hammer hooking the grubs; It works great for dropshotting like fishshim had mention but for serf perch I prefer threading the grub. To find out for sure try it both ways. Place your rig in the water while its going out and watch the action of your grub.


ZeeHokkaido

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didn't notice anything magic happening.

didn't expect magic, just thought it was interestng.
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FishinJay

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This is the way I always hook my grubs. I find this technique works best with size 6 or 8 Owner Mosquito hooks. Also, unlike the previous posts, I've found that the reason I prefer this technique is that I tend to get more hits, and the hook is always in the lips.
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jmairey

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Z, sorry if that read short, was a great post with a great pic too!

I wonder what is the history of the morf grub, like when was it invented and who the heck
figured out it works for perch?

one other rigging thing, I rig up a 'complete' carolina rig, with two swivels about 10" apart.
and 15lb to 30lb line for the swivel to slide on. a bead in front of each swivel. I carry a few of
these pretied, in 3/4 oz, 1oz and 1.5oz.

to switch weights you need to re-tie two knots is the downside. also, you can't reel the sinker
right to the tip of the rod, only to the first swivel.

But the usual failure is the egg sinker abrades the light line and breaks off above the swivel.

often there is sand inside the egg sinker sanding your line!  :smt013

the heavier line, ideally something like big game or XT, an abrasion resistant line, resists this
a lot longer. also, there is less room for sand inside the egg sinker.

I have not fired my rig way out in the ocean for awhile now due to the sinker abrading the
line and causing it to break on a cast.

an alternative would be a 'casting leader', a rod length of heavier mono to take the casting
pressure and abrasion from the egg sinker.

I generally don't retie my rig at all once I am fishing but probably should consider changing my leader
more often or sharpening a hook.  well, I have a hard time dealing with rigging once the fishing starts.

J
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Tote

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I was shown by a guide to use an Aberdeen hook and thread the grub all the way up the shank and have the bend of the hook follow the contour of the grubs tail. No short strikes this way.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2007, 06:38:59 PM by Tote »
<=>


FisHunter

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I have the Spro POWER SWIVELS and they are super tiny and have a high weight capacity.Are you refering to the BALL BERRING type only, for less line-twist?
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