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Topic: Downrigger - pick the photo where you would mount (and why??)  (Read 2081 times)

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fishi

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NewB to downrigging, and pedal drive.  I have 4 locations that I think make sense for mounting my Scotty downrigger.  I want it removable.  Where would you mount - A, B, C or D?  Or other location?  I think 'D' works best.

I am right handed, does that matter?
Best to have it slightly behind (out of the way)?
Best to have it beside (right next to me)?
Best to have it in front of me (slight lean to deal with it)?

« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 05:02:06 PM by fishi »
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yakyakyak

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If you are considering A, C, and D, keep in mind if it's in the way in case you need to re-enter.  I vote B, but be careful when you turn around (don't lean too much).  A would be the next choice (for portability). 

Personally, I would never consider D.  Would C be bad for netting a fish? Only you will know ....

Edit:
B on your 1st set of pics, E or C on your 2nd pic.  A would be the next choice.


« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 06:55:45 PM by yakyakyak »
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crash

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Will the base fit in the cup holder?  If it does I'd put it there.
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fishi

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I am willing to mod, CUP holder ok, and yea I would think some kind of jigging/rigging would make a fit into the cup holder.
I should have attached a full view  -  responses so far, good points that accessible, not in the way.
Perhaps one of the rod holders? 
I have not taken this vessel out yet, tomorrow, and will before doing any mounting - this advice much appreciated!!


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A
As far forward as you can comfortably reach.  Your cranking arm will thank you.  You'll also be able to easily see when the weight bounces on the bottom and immediately pedal/paddle faster to quickly lift the weight through drag. 
While mocking up a rig, also sit in the kayak with your rod and attach it to the downrigger.  You'll want the right placement in relationship to the downrigger so you can keep the bent rod in front of you and able to watch it when you get strikes that don't trip the line. 

Replace the steel cable with braided fishing line for a safety feature.  If you line snags or hangs up on anything drifting past you, you can cut the braid with a knife quickly.  Also, the mono will be thinner than the steel and have less drag cutting though the water.


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I put mine on the track. I can adjust it if needed. In use I move it far enough forward to be out of the way of my paddle stroke. I can reach it reasonably well to raise and lower and to pivot it for deploy and stowing it. The clip drifts back enough so I can reach it in the water to attach my line and to grab it to encourage my shuttle hawk to dive.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=42846.msg470404#msg470404

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NowhereMan

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A
As far forward as you can comfortably reach.  Your cranking arm will thank you.  You'll also be able to easily see when the weight bounces on the bottom and immediately pedal/paddle faster to quickly lift the weight through drag. 
While mocking up a rig, also sit in the kayak with your rod and attach it to the downrigger.  You'll want the right placement in relationship to the downrigger so you can keep the bent rod in front of you and able to watch it when you get strikes that don't trip the line. 

Replace the steel cable with braided fishing line for a safety feature.  If you line snags or hangs up on anything drifting past you, you can cut the braid with a knife quickly.  Also, the mono will be thinner than the steel and have less drag cutting though the water.

This!
« Last Edit: October 09, 2017, 10:20:24 PM by NowhereMan »
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pmmpete

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When mounting a downrigger on a pedal kayak, the most important thing is to mount it where it is comfortable for you to crank up the weight, because you'll be doing that many times a day.  For me, the most comfortable place to mount a downrigger is just behind my knee.  I'm not familiar with your kayak, and it would be easier to give you recommendations if your post included a picture of you sitting in the seat of the kayak.  However, it looks to me like it would be most comfortable to mount your Scotty Laketroller on the track (Picture A), because that will allow you to adjust the location of the downrigger for maximum comfort and efficiency, and will allow you to completely remove the downrigger and its base from the gunwale when transporting the kayak or going through surf.  If you mount it on the gunwale behind the track (Picure C), I suspect that you will find that it's a bit too far back for maximum comfort. If you mount it next to your seat (Picture B), I think that cranking the weight up will put a lot of stress on your shoulder, because you'll need to reach back to crank the downrigger.  If you mount the downrigger on the side of the cockpit (Picture D), I suspect that the mount will jab you in the thigh when you pedal the kayak.

The Scotty Laketroller doesn't have a brake or clutch.  You lock and release the cable reel by tightening and loosening a hand nut.  If you mount the downrigger on the right gunwale of your kayak, you can learn to use your right hand to both hold the cable reel in place and tighten or loosen the hand nut, but that is a hassle.  It's a lot easier to reach over with your left hand to operate the hand nut.  Put on a bunch of clothing and your PFD, and be sure that it will be comfortable and  convenient to reach across your chest with your left hand to operate the hand nut when wearing that gear.  If you mount the downrigger next to your seat (Picture B), think you will find that your clothing and PFD will make it difficult to reach the hand nut.

Another option for operating the hand nut on a Scotty Laketroller is to stop pedaling for a moment and lean your thigh against the edge of the cable reel to hold it in place while you tighten or loosen the hand nut with your right hand.  This can be convenient in some situations, so consider that option when choosing a location for your Laketroller.

My first downrigger system was a Scotty Laketroller mounted on a 13' Ocean Kayak Trident.  It's a lot more difficult to mount a downrigger on a paddle kayak, because you have to locate the downrigger where it won't interfere with paddling the kayak, and you may be restricted to small low-profile downriggers like the Scotty Laketroller.  My second downrigger system was a Scotty Depthmaster mounted on a 13' Hobie Revolution.  My current downrigger setup, and definitely my favorite setup, is a Cannon Lake-Troll downrigger on my Revolution.  I described this setup in a posting at http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=12575.msg138905#msg138905.  Photobucket is no longer providing third party image hosting for the pictures which went with this posting, but I make a lot of detailed suggestions in the posting about how to set up a downrigger system on a pedal kayak. Someday I'll get around to replacing the pictures in the posting.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 12:47:26 AM by pmmpete »


Tote

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I have mine mounted very far forward.
It's out of the way and works like a charm.

<=>


Tinker

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I have mine mounted very far forward.
It's out of the way and works like a charm.

Do you operate it with your fish-finder battery?  If you do, how's it affect your battery life?

Definitely a cool setup.


yakyakyak

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A lot of good advice.  Let me add one more thing into consideration.  You may want to find a comfortable spot where you can reel up your downrigger while you are pedaling at the same time.

If you end up using the rail, use https://www.yakattack.us/MMS_12_p/mms-12.htm (and you should considering backing plate for your rail, depending on your weight)

If you end up using other location, don't forget a backing plate.



 
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pmmpete

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You put a lot of torque on a downrigger's base when you crank up the weight, so look for a way to spread this stress out over as large an area of your kayak's hull as you can.  One way to do this is by including fender washers or backing plate inside the kayak, but in some mounting positions the inside of the gunwale isn't flat, and even fender washers may be awkward to install.  If you mount your downrigger on the track on your kayak, and the Scotty deck mount only touches the track, then all the stress of operating the downrigger will be exerted between the bolts in the center of the track and the sides of the track, which creates a lot of leverage.  If you mount the deck mount on a plate which sits on the gunwale on both sides of the track, that will provide a very stable base for the downrigger.  If the track is a bit higher than the gunwale, attach strips of plastic or wood to the back of the mounting plate so the plate will be clamped against the gunwale on both sides of the track, rather than against the track itself.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 02:14:05 PM by pmmpete »


bmb

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i would put it on the flat spot behind the cup holder.  call that A.5.  Either that or C.

I have had mine forward, didn't like it, too far to reach. I've had it back, didn't like it, too far to reach. Now, I want it next to me, slightly forward where i can crank it up without reaching too far forward or back, but hopefully so it doesn't interfere with my pedaling or rub against my leg.  I agree with pete, the location should be mid thigh to knee. depends on how long your arms are.

I mount mine on the track, in A position. it works fine and is easily removable.  But my next mount will be a B-.5 position, although I won't use the scotty 844. instead, i'll be using the 244s. they fit flat to the deck so no protrusions when I remove the downrigger and pack up at end of day.  I'll be using a backing plate for them.  I'm not sure if that's feasible for you in the Pilot without internal hull access though. 

Without internal hull access, i'd just mount on the track.

Also, I use shuttle hawks so I don't need to crank as often.  As for positioning, I put the rigger arm out at about a 45 degree angle pointing back so the line for the ball stays relatively close to my hull.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 10:30:20 AM by bmb »


bmb

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I've been doing downriggers on tracks for about 4 years now. zero issues.  Although Native's tracks and the yakattack tracks i was using are metal.  I don't know if the plastic track that the Pilot uses are up to snuff.  I've heard they have a little flex.

While downriggers do have a lot of force, the laketrollers with 3lb balls are not enough to cause any issues that I've noted, and I set the drag properly so if i hit something the line pulls out.  Also, I'm usually pedaling slow enough that when i hit the bottom, i simply lose momentum and am not jerked out of my seat or anything.

Native tracks are bolted onto inset nuts in 4 locations - they claimed to me that the tracks can withstand 1300lbs of force, which is well in excess of the worst I could do to it.  Not sure how true it was, but anyways. If the Pilot's tracks are installed properly with multiple bolts or inset nuts, it should spread the force out evenly among the track and hull. so your primarily hitch would be the strength of the track itself.


FishingAddict

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Hey Fishi,

You must be all confused now with the different suggestions.   :smt005

I say put it on C spot and use a Scotty Flush Mount (if it fits) and Scotty backing plate behind so there's nothing sticking out.  I am a righty but have my Lake Troller on the left side on both my kayaks.  You're not using a heavy DR weight so that shouldn't matter. 

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=77413.0

Good luck!   :smt006
« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 12:38:39 PM by FishingAddict »
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