(plastic repair) scupper classic vs scupper pro

Classic or Pro
Which one was faster?







 

Classic or Pro
Which one was faster?

Depends who's paddling which one. 
CHUB has the Scupper Pro TW and he is lightening OTW.

If dropped, while in a vacuum chamber, they both would fall at the same rate of speed.

whatever one you don't have is faster.......

Every OG should own one of each ... I sadly have neither 

whatever one you don't have is faster.......

I kind of had the same idea.
  Im doing some plastic welding/repairs on a Classic right now and when its ready for the water, I plan on testing against the speed of the RTM DISCO.
I was just curious if I would be testing against the faster of the 2 .

I have only limited experience with the two, but my off-the-cuff answer is that the TW is faster.
I paddled a SP TW while my BIL had one but it was too wet of a ride for me, and it didn't fit me very well. hauled ass though.
I have paddled a classic as a guide boat on my island trips and it felt like it had much more initial stability so I kinda think it might be slower? was still much faster than the scrambler and scrambler XTs.
This is just what they felt like to me.

I think my fav OK is a plain scrambler though, those are just a ton of fun. The Scrambler XT? Ugh its a pig to get through the water.

Thanks for the help Sean. Unfortunately you confirmed my suspicion.
I was really hoping that I could knock out a few different projects while this boat is in my care.
First is a challenging "hole" at the scupper (shocking) that will test my plastic skills.
Then , if my shoulder is healed enough, Ill strap in for some rolls when I test my work.
And then, I want to find out what really is the fastest plastic fishing boat. Looks like ill need to use a SP/TW for some time on the water before my information can be accurate.

Since the classic is already here, first up will be Scupper classic VS RTM Disco.

I want to find out what really is the fastest plastic fishing boat. Looks like ill need to use a SP/TW for some time on the water before my information can be accurate.

Are you testing for all out sprinting speed or average (maintainable) speed over a certain distance?


I have some friends that are interested in getting some yaks for their Tahoe cabin so I lent them my Tarpon 160 and my eddyline C14 just to get a feel for being on the water.  When they brought them back both hubby and wife commented that the C14 was a faster boat.

I've never really had them in a comparison paddle to see which is faster but I always felt like the tarpon was the undisputed king.  I think the light weight of the Eddyline might make it a contender in the sprint category. Would be really cool to get a Stealth into your line up, looks like a rocket.

Interesting stuff either way, let us know how it goes.

 Hey Art,  Im interested in the static to panic sprint. 100 yards max.
I find value in the kind of speed that helps get me past the next wave, out of trouble, or to get to my friends if they are in need.

I think its tough to compare the thermoforms to the PE boats. They are just another level of slippery.
The STEALTH boats are also tough to compare to the more traditional PE fishing SOTs since the STEALTH products have qualities that are so similar to skis.

The speed test is a project that I am planning for 2016. It will take me most of the year to access the boats on my list from friends.
There is only one boat that I'm not sure how to find yet.
The Malibu Express.

 The current T160 has already been eliminated, but the T160DH vs T160i are still in the mix.

The Express.   Anyone have this boat?
I have solid time on the Malibu 4.4 but it lacked the volume to support fishing gear.

 I knew that this was going to be a challenging project.
The Classic had not only a hole where the scupper tube had separated from the hull but an even bigger issue that I discovered after cleaning the site. During the roto-molding, not enough PE had concentrated around the scupper base.  I talked to the boat owner and told him the risks of just repairing the hole vs repairing the hull and trying to build up the plastic at the scupper base inside the hull. We decided to just repair the hole for now and if/when there is another issue I would attempt to weld the interior problems too.
 So, I went to work. The boat owner had a piece of O.K plastic that was sent to him years ago when he first discovered the hole. I was encouraged by this since I have had issues trying to weld with incompatible plastics on other projects. The hole had been "repaired" previously with some kind of latex base?, silicone?, and what I suspect may have been Elmer's glue. So after all of that was cleared away I started putting heat to the scrap plastic and learned quickly that they were not the same stock or possibly the aged hull had degenerated and the hull and the scrap stock no longer had the same melting point. I was stuck just collapsing the area around the hole and smoothing it over until it was sealed.
It worked, but the ultra thin area at the scupper base could be a future issue. Luckily this is a back up boat for the owner and he will pack it full of pool noodles.

Thanks VK. Ill look into that product.
Of course I would prefer to try to improve my plastic welding skills, but I would really like to find a product for those tough to get to places where bringing in heat could cause way more damage than fixing.
UV resin is really what I am hoping will bond or at least patch PE boats, but thats another project and another future thread.

Interior shots

Also check out West Systems G-Flex which is designed for plastic yak's & such.

Ill add that to the list too.
Even if I don't use them to patch holes, I can consider and test them for preventative work like reinforcing the plastic around thin scuppers.

This isn't something that happens to just old boats.
Here is a thin spot from the aft section of a Jackson Coosa that I used to own.

Roto-molding is not the ultimate answer.