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Topic: Ultra 4.3 rudder - am I missing a part  (Read 2449 times)

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Carlsbad Kook

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Is there supposed to be some sort of cotter pin at the bottom to hold the rudder in place?
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G-Whiz

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I thought the same thing; but you are suppose to use the key ring to prevent the pin from backing out....
The one who dies with the most toys, WINS!



SeaWeed

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A ring would be much better. If you use a cotter pin, it needs to be stainless steel. The easier a pin is to put in, the easier it will fall out.
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Carlsbad Kook

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I thought the same thing; but you are suppose to use the key ring to prevent the pin from backing out....
Thanks.  I was wondering what that split ring was for.  Where it was installed didn't make any sense to me.
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agoodhi

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the plastic clip hanging in the pic is suppose to connect to the hole where the split ring currently is, but you prolly figured that out by now.


Carlsbad Kook

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Trying to figure out the lengths of the bungee connected to the foot pegs.  How far toward the front of the yak should the peg be when attaching the cabling to the rudder?  Anyone have a picture?
http://mylifeotw.blogspot.com/

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agoodhi

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Trying to figure out the lengths of the bungee connected to the foot pegs.  How far toward the front of the yak should the peg be when attaching the cabling to the rudder?  Anyone have a picture?

lol, you should just come over and look at mine.  as long as you are able to move the rudder full left, full right, you are good.  i put my peg as far back, so cable is at shortest length, but enough to allow full rudder movement.  doing so allows short and long legs to work the rudder.  nylon straps allows you to adjust for different leg lengths (note that cable connecttions always stay in the same place whether adjusted for short or long legs).  i cut bungee lengths to fit my personal peg location.

it took a few beers to figure this out  :beer2


Carlsbad Kook

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Trying to figure out the lengths of the bungee connected to the foot pegs.  How far toward the front of the yak should the peg be when attaching the cabling to the rudder?  Anyone have a picture?

lol, you should just come over and look at mine.  as long as you are able to move the rudder full left, full right, you are good.  i put my peg as far back, so cable is at shortest length, but enough to allow full rudder movement.  doing so allows short and long legs to work the rudder.  nylon straps allows you to adjust for different leg lengths (note that cable connecttions always stay in the same place whether adjusted for short or long legs).  i cut bungee lengths to fit my personal peg location.

it took a few beers to figure this out  :beer2
Makes sense.  I wanted to be sure before I cut the cables.
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Carlsbad Kook

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From a neutral position (rudder at center), what is the length of travel for the foot pegs when rudder reaches full left/right?   
http://mylifeotw.blogspot.com/

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agoodhi

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tape them up at the rudder end and try it out before cutting cables.  i think i ended up putting the cable loop (on the peg end) a little forward of rear most rail bolt.


Carlsbad Kook

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tape them up at the rudder end and try it out before cutting cables.  i think i ended up putting the cable loop (on the peg end) a little forward of rear most rail bolt.

After sleeping on it, I figured it out. 

1.  I'm going to tape the rudder to full left and adjust the right foot peg/cable to as far toward the rear as possible.
2.  Tighten cable and crimp.
3.  Set rudder to middle position.
4.  Match left foot peg to right foot peg position.
5.  Tighten and crimp left foot peg cabling.
6.  Adjust bungee to my preferred setting (after OTW test) and cut bungee.

This should give me the full possible range of adjustment.
http://mylifeotw.blogspot.com/

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agoodhi

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Sounds good. The bungee doesn't have to be perfect, it's simply there to return pegs to neutral when your feet aren't on them. On my Jackson, I push them to neutral and it stays there when I'm dangling, no bungee needed.