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Topic: epoxy?  (Read 2953 times)

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mahito

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so I recently bought a fish finder and epoxied the transducer into the hull of my malibu 2xl  unfortunately half way through my first day on the water wth it the epoxy popped loose  =(  any advice on how to glue the damnd things into the boat so they won't come loose?
thanks
oh I got a garmin 140 fyi


Marmite

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Epoxy won't stick to polyethylene--almost nothing will for anything requiring structural strength.  But there shouldn't be any force applied to the transducer so marine goop will work well--as recommended in the "Kayak Fishing Video".  But I have heard that the sealant/adhesive Lexan will also work for this.  I hope you can get the epoxy off your transducer since it probably can stick to that pretty well.

Doug


MolBasser

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I HIGHLY recommend the pool noodle doughnut mount as detailed by Promethean spark.

The sensitivity of the transducer is much better.

You can find the thread HERE


MolBasser
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KayakBuilder

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I hope you can get the epoxy off your transducer since it probably can stick to that pretty well.
Doug
If epoxy is stuck to the transducer, you get heat it with a hair dryer and then soak a towell with Methel Ethyl Kytone (MET) and rub a lot. Eventually it will all work off.
Craig


MolBasser

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Or 2-Butanone...

 :smt002

MolBasser
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Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew!
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mahito

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thanks for all the help  =)
gonna try the pool noodle or similar solution as soon as I get one  =)


Marmite

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I am curious to know what kind of problems people seem to have with gooping their transducers in?  Is it lack of adhesion or artifacts from errant reflected sound or poor penetration to intended depth? I have a Lowrance C68 and have never seemed to have had problems with it just "Gooped" in.
 
As with light waves, sound waves are most likely reflected back at the interface of two dissimilar materials.  The greater the difference in density between the two material the greater the probabilty that more energy will be reflected back, thus attenuating the beam and lowering penetration.  Since the transducer cover, cured Goop and the kayak hule are all various forms of petrochemicals-haydrocarbons- I would bet that their relative densities are quite similar, therefore lowering the risk of reflected energy.  But with the foam "cup" mounting, you go from epoxy to water (and any potential air bubles) back to polyethylene and then back to water.  I would think this would create a greater chance for artifacts and attenuated wave energy.
 
Also, wiith this foam retention system, I would think that if your kayak hit enough turbulence you could dislodge it a bit or lose a bit of water and potentially introduce an air buble between the base and kayak, which could slosh around and introduce  "built in" artifacts.  Or if you flipped your kayak and lost a little water I would think you would have to enter your foward compartment to fill up the foam "cup" if any of it leaked.  I guess if the seal around the transducer is really uniform and tight it would retain the water even if the kayak was upside down. 
 
Probably not of practical significance since the application demands are fairly crude--its not like were searching for enemy subs.  But I was just wondering.
 
Doug


MolBasser

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My experience with goop has been a drastic reduction in sensitivity.

My experience with the pool noodle is that I can't tell the difference between that mount and the naked transducer in the water.

Of course, this is with an Eagle transducer which is a rounded bottom as apposed to a flat bottomed transducer.

MolBasser
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jmairey

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I can't speak to sensitivity, I went with the noodle approach myself due to not wanting to commit to a gooped location, and have never tried the pure goop solution.

in my application the transducer is held in the noodle collar tightly, it won't come out, nor do I think the water will just splash out.

J
john m. airey


MolBasser

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Yeah, my mount is tight enough that the transducer will not dislodge under normal use, and the water is held in by the tight mounting.

I was actually more concerned with the water evaporating over the day and thus losing signal, but this did not happen.

MolBasser
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Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew!
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jmairey

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I paddled out on sunday afternoon at lex with no water in the noodle. it still read depth accurately believe it or not, but was noisy. I poured a little water in there from my water bottle while half-way to crappie cove and it worked great from there on out. I think it's a good solution, but nothing is perfect, I could see the foam collar wearing out over time, holding it less tight, and I could see leaks developing in the collar over time too. you can always pull it out and hang it over the side in an 'emergency',  :smt002. my guess is lots of other things will fail before the noodle collar fails.
john m. airey


kickfish

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I used a sealent found at Orchard Supply (Marine Goo---I think).  It was the only one rated as being water resistant.  After I installed it I was a show on ESPN that said you should sand the bottom of the transducer and the surface where you are mounting it.

I like this stuff because I found out later you should mount it in the middle of the yak (lowest point) but off to the side.  Not straight in the middle.  I had to re mount it and it came off pretty easy with a hard knock of a rubber head hammer.  Sure the extra glue is still there but there was not any on the transducer.

Ken kickfish


alantani

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i just used this stuff to glue a carbon fiber drag washer to a metal pressure plate.  it holds very well.  it's $50 for the box of glue.  if you're in the area, i can can glue it in place for you.  personally, i'm going for a transom mount! :smt005



Marmite

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Do you know if it will stick to the polyethylene of kayaks?

Where do you buy it from?

Thanks

Doug