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Topic: Quick Release Anchor System~Step-By-Step Tutorial  (Read 97392 times)

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sonoramike

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FYI lowes has these they come in 3 pack for $3.04. Picked them up today.


barefoot1

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+1    IMO~Trollies suck.<br />Less is more.<br/>

I used the QRAS in a real strong incoming tide on Montezuma Slough.  Line winder was a byatch to use in the strong current.  One of the guys I was with just stuffed his rope in a bag like a gym bag.  He would just anticipate his anchor point and throw out the whole 50', it worked well for him.  Winder works fine in calm water though.
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so."
- Mark Twain


AlsHobieOutback

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Why does this thread continue to be muddied up with thread jacks?  This is Totes QRAS system post.  Why not start a new post to discuss the benefits of other methods? 
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."

 IG: alshobie


tazman222

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TOTE...
I just finished rigging my Jackson Cuda 14 with the QRS per your tutorial and all I can say is ...
THANK YOU FOR TIME AND EFFORT AND POSTING IT !!!!!!!
I also used someone elses advise on rigging a milkcrate securely, but for the life of me cannot remember who it was.
I do remember that the true test was if you could lift the crate and hold your Yak up then it was good to go...
Again, Thanks! It is really about members helping each other out that makes this truly fun.  :smt001


surf12foot

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Thanks so much for posting. On my way to making one.
Scott


Scurvy

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I have about 80 metres of 3mm paracord on my reel the thinner line reduces drag on the warp significantly but the breaking strain is still more than needed. We work on about 3 times the depth for the warp but if in strong tides this can be increased to up to x5. Thus keeping the angle to the anchor as shallow as possible to promote more secure setting of the anchor tines.
By having a full length anchor trolley the anchor can be hauled at either the bow or stern thus not compromising stability which could occur if hauled amidships.

Terry

Terry, thx for your series of posts on this thread -- I have done a lot of research on the topic and agree with you 100%.  Good anchoring skills are considered an essential safety skill in the boating arena, and our kayaks are still boats so it applies to us too IMO.

Although I love the simplicity of the OP, I have the exact setup you have described for the very same convenience reasons:  I bought a stainless steel dive reel loaded w/ 400' of ~ 220# test braided nylon line, which I estimate to be plenty strong for anchoring a kayak due to the drag and stretch imparted on a properly scoped anchoring >3.5:1.  That dive reel came with a brass quick clip too and cost all of $60, and the handle can be configured in many different positions.  Yes, I use a rode chain that is attached to the bottom tip of the folding anchor, and then the chain is held to the line end eye with a 40# zip-tie, which I can break off for stuck retrievals.

-- Bradley

Obviously using a fish finder to select or KNOW one's anchorage can be the difference between success and failure.