Downrigger Help Needed

1: Ditch the wire cable and get some braided line that is color coded for depth. I’ve been using powerpro in 50 lb test for the last couple years.

This!

And carry a knife that you can access instantly, in case you need to cut the DR weight free. A few years ago, I was fishing with my DR out of Moss Landing when a whale suddenly appeared 4’ under my kayak. The DR line started peeling off the spool at a high rate of speed, and I reflexively cut the braid. If that had been a steel cable, at the least, I would have gone for a swim, and in the worst case that whale would still be in possession of my kayak.

I’ve heard about the possibility of a whale encounter. Wasn’t sure that it was actually a thing!!! I’ve done the braid swap, and have a knife on my PFD. Really hoping to never snag a whale, I might just soil my Kokatats!!!

I really wanted to get a larger downrigger, but being a newb myself, I felt it would be better for me to start small. The lake troller takes up less space, and I think it’s a good intro to the multitasking that is kayak fishing.

Anybody have any first hand experience doing self rescue with a DR weight and gear deployed?

I purchased the 1050 but now I'm having 2nd thoughts because of what I've read about the boom being too long for a kayak.

I'm confused and thinking of returning it and getting the laketroller.

Can someone please talk this newbie  into one or the other?

You can shorten the boom, you know that right?
The 1050 is much superior to the lake troller. I have both. And I upgraded to 1060.
Heck I want the electric downrigger too if I can fit and make it to work somehow. 

How do you shorten it?

Anybody have any first hand experience doing self rescue with a DR weight and gear deployed?

Um, sort of. I jumped out of my kayak and got back In to see how hard it would be.  I didn’t flip my kayak, just sort of fell out and climbed back in. Getting back in wasn’t a big deal I just crawled in from the non downrigger side. 

I purchased the 1050 but now I'm having 2nd thoughts because of what I've read about the boom being too long for a kayak.

I'm confused and thinking of returning it and getting the laketroller.

Can someone please talk this newbie  into one or the other?

You can shorten the boom, you know that right?
The 1050 is much superior to the lake troller. I have both. And I upgraded to 1060.
Heck I want the electric downrigger too if I can fit and make it to work somehow. 

How do you shorten it?

It’s very obvious when you have it on hand. Just cut it away.

I’ve heard about the possibility of a whale encounter. Wasn’t sure that it was actually a thing!!! I’ve done the braid swap, and have a knife on my PFD. Really hoping to never snag a whale, I might just soil my Kokatats!!!

I have had whales sneak up behind me and snag my trolling gear twice. The first time I was using a DD6 and thought I had something like a shark on the line. It wasn’t until it came to the surface that I realized I wasn’t going to be able to bring it to the boat.

The second time the whale snagged my downrigger ball. The downrigger handle started going like a blender, and all the braid was spooled in seconds. At that point the braid snapped without noticeably upsetting my kayak.

This thread might help. I’m still happy with this setup, but I rarely use it. DD6 does the trick.

I realize this approach would have to be tweaked a little for the newer model Outback, but it might give you some ideas.

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=66085.0


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This thread might help. I’m still happy with this setup, but I rarely use it. DD6 does the trick.

I realize this approach would have to be tweaked a little for the newer model Outback, but it might give you some ideas.

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=66085.0


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Did you shorten the downrigger arm? Can you tell me exactly what you have to take apart and where to cut it? I'm assuming it voids the warranty.

Thanks! I'm a newbie and scared to screw it up.

Did you shorten the downrigger arm?

The crucial thing is that the end of the arm is close to your kayak so as to reduce the tipping force. I’ve seen some that just angle the DR but I think you’ll be much better off shortening the arm.

You might want to look up pmmpete’s posts on DR installation—tons of good info there.

Do I take it apart at the spoool and cut the arm from there?

For anyone looking at other ways to mount the small downrigger on an Outback here is a pic of mine. Laketroller with shortened and bent up boom (so the line lays correctly), Scotty base with yak attack track adapter.

I really like the cup holder mount but I prefer my downrigger on the right side and that is the skinny bottle cup holder side.

It’s also in a good position to use my knee as a clutch which I’m used to doing on my revo.

I thought about shortening the boom on mine, but ended up positioning it so that the line is just off the side of my kayak. I'm using an older version of the 1050/60 - I think it was called the Solataire or something like that. With the line positioned just an inch or so off the side I don't think the boom length is as much of an issue. That being said, i haven't had a whale tangle up in my gear yet, but I'm running braid and have a knife handy.

Cheers,
Brad

How many pounds braid do you guys replace steel cable with?

How many pounds braid do you guys replace steel cable with?

50 pound seems to work...