NorCal Kayak Anglers
Kayak Zone => Gearing Up and Rigging Up => Topic started by: E Kayaker on December 31, 2016, 04:45:37 PM
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My large milk crate doesn't leave enough room for fish in my new Thresher 140. I decided to try to make something custom and see if I can kick the crate. I decided to use PVC since it works well for my production skill level. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. It's got enough strength and stability for the huge Sturgeon net I have. I also figure I can add to it if I want connect a piece to make a trolling motor mount.
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Sweet! I like that approach.
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Extremely sexy. Nice job
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Looks great! Make sure you trim those bolts off, they cut the heck out wet skin, scuba suits, or dry suits.
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Nice! What did you use to attach it to the tracks?
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That looks nice. Thanks for the inspiration. Still a little above my skill level though... :smt001
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Looks good Ken. I moved to the same train of thought. Got rid of the crate went to a Plano box. Then got rid of the Plano box. The only thing behind my seat now is my stringers. Now matter what I hail around in my box back there I rarely use it and it's s pain to reach and a bigger pain to drag my fish over it to add to my stringer. How many built in rod holders does a thresher have. I got a trident ultra 4.3 now because it has enough flush mount tod holders I can hold my net , and extra poles if I have them but I usually leave those inside the hull. The less stuff to get together, setup , maneuver around, break drown and put away for sure makes for a more enjoyable experience
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Nice! What did you use to attach it to the tracks?
5/16 carriage bolts. They are just big enough to not turn in the tracks.
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Looks great! Make sure you trim those bolts off, they cut the heck out wet skin, scuba suits, or dry suits.
Yes. I had planned to use a 1 inch spacer to keep it above the tracks. When I changed my plans my bolts were too long. I have shorter ones but it took me till I was done before I found them. :smt001
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Thank you for posting. Im lovin the setup. I too have a thresher and use a crate for no other reason but to mount rod holders and a net. I could imagine without a crate, stashing the stringer back there would be great. I currently place my catch in the front hatch. But, last thursday when the swells were 10ft it was difficult to crawl up to the front hatch.
Great innovation!
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That looks nice. Thanks for the inspiration. Still a little above my skill level though... :smt001
I have a fiber disk chop saw that I use to make square, precise cuts on the PVC. On the T sections that stick into the well I cut the junction in half so they stay close to the wall (see photo). I figure there isn't that much stress on them so a shorter connection will work. Some of the connections will be glued together. Many of them will get sheet metal type screws to keep them from pulling apart. The T and cross fittings must point exactly the right way. They might not end up pointing straight up if I just glued them and twisted them on. Using a screw I can position it just right and then drill the pilot hole. Having the front piece higher than the two sides allows everything to line up. The two rails are closer together in the rear than the front so a simple 90° won't cross straight over to connect the two sides. I used 1-1/2" PVC fittings and electrical conduit pipe. I hope the conduit might do better in sunlight than regular PVC. I decided to add pipe below all but the net holder. My rod was rubbing against the fitting as I pulled it out and was knocking the butt cap off the rod. The pipe addition keeps that from happening and I may put a cap on the bottom to support the rod and keep it from rubbing on the deck of the kayak. I left the pipe out of the net holder because it made it a little bit too tight to easily slide my big sturgeon net in and out. The trick is to have it tight enough to keep everything pointed up straight without needing to struggle to get the pole or net inserted while reaching back.
In the photo below, I drew red lines on the sections that are shortened. Each side of the junction had one half its length cut off.
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My priorities are kinda jacked up. In your first picture I was looking at the raised planter in the background and thinking "why aren't there any onions planted in there?" :smt044
Nice idea on the pvc :smt003
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Very nice ! Krylon Fusion spray paint would color that up real nice. Also protect from UV light.
Have you ever tried heating the PVC to shape some of the bends?
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My large milk crate doesn't leave enough room for fish in my new Thresher 140. I decided to try to make something custom and see if I can kick the crate. I decided to use PVC since it works well for my production skill level. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. It's got enough strength and stability for the huge Sturgeon net I have. I also figure I can add to it if I want connect a piece to make a trolling motor mount.
Nice. It's such a dilemma, this space vs convenience thing. For your bolts, you might want to try "toilet flange" bolts from the plumbing Dept of a well stocked hardware store; you might be able to find brass ones which are easy to cut down (thread a nut on well below your cut in order to correct the threads after cutting) and hold up better in saltwater. That said, the brass & aluminum have a bad galvanic reaction so its best to spray the T-bolt w/ something waxy like Boeshield T9.
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Very nice ! Krylon Fusion spray paint would color that up real nice. Also protect from UV light.
Have you ever tried heating the PVC to shape some of the bends?
I thought about it but never tried it.
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My large milk crate doesn't leave enough room for fish in my new Thresher 140. I decided to try to make something custom and see if I can kick the crate. I decided to use PVC since it works well for my production skill level. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. It's got enough strength and stability for the huge Sturgeon net I have. I also figure I can add to it if I want connect a piece to make a trolling motor mount.
Nice. It's such a dilemma, this space vs convenience thing. For your bolts, you might want to try "toilet flange" bolts from the plumbing Dept of a well stocked hardware store; you might be able to find brass ones which are easy to cut down (thread a nut on well below your cut in order to correct the threads after cutting) and hold up better in saltwater. That said, the brass & aluminum have a bad galvanic reaction so its best to spray the T-bolt w/ something waxy like Boeshield T9.
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The ones I tried the other day would spin in the track. Maybe some brands are bigger. I may get some stainless carriage bolts.
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Very nice ! Krylon Fusion spray paint would color that up real nice. Also protect from UV light.
Have you ever tried heating the PVC to shape some of the bends?
I thought about it but never tried it.
Super easy,,, Flames tend to burn and discolor it, so use a heat gun or even just put a section in the oven, warm it till it's like a noodle. you can flange shape the ends of pipe, or even make your own slip fittings.
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holy pvc batman, that looks sweet. is this going to be the new trend instead of the milk crates?
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holy pvc batman, that looks sweet. is this going to be the new trend instead of the milk crates?
Depending on your kayak, maybe maybe not. If your kayak doesn't have a large center hatch, having a place to store stuff is kinda nice even if you have a way of holding rods an whatnot.
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I decided to redo my pvc rod/net holder. I have struggled with the design because pvc uses 90 & 45 degree turns and the gear track is 94 degrees. In the first one I solved that problem by going up then over so I could twist the ell to point straight across. When I was trying to put a big stringer of rockfish and lingcod in the back the raised pvc made it more difficult.
I finally figured how to make it with 90 degree turns. The pipe doesn't follow the track, but with the cross piece behind my seat I'm able to bolt it in securely. It was a little tricky getting the bolt holes in the right spot, but it turned out ok and it fits good. I also like the fact that it's lighter than the old one and I moved the net holder closer to my seat. It's got room for two rods and a net which should be enough, but I can add more if I decide I need it.
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Nice!
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Looks good.
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That's exactly what I need! Nice work Traildad!
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My rod was rubbing against the fitting as I pulled it out and was knocking the butt cap off the rod.
This is a pretty good description of how I had my third child.
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Oh yeah, and very nice, inspiring work.
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My large milk crate doesn't leave enough room for fish in my new Thresher 140. I decided to try to make something custom and see if I can kick the crate. I decided to use PVC since it works well for my production skill level. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. It's got enough strength and stability for the huge Sturgeon net I have. I also figure I can add to it if I want connect a piece to make a trolling motor mount.
Nice. It's such a dilemma, this space vs convenience thing. For your bolts, you might want to try "toilet flange" bolts from the plumbing Dept of a well stocked hardware store; you might be able to find brass ones which are easy to cut down (thread a nut on well below your cut in order to correct the threads after cutting) and hold up better in saltwater. That said, the brass & aluminum have a bad galvanic reaction so its best to spray the T-bolt w/ something waxy like Boeshield T9.
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The ones I tried the other day would spin in the track. Maybe some brands are bigger. I may get some stainless carriage bolts.
Toilet bowl hardwear.... oval with flat sides. comes with rubber washers too!!!! Brass so no corrosion either. Nice job on the pipe works!
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My large milk crate doesn't leave enough room for fish in my new Thresher 140. I decided to try to make something custom and see if I can kick the crate. I decided to use PVC since it works well for my production skill level. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. It's got enough strength and stability for the huge Sturgeon net I have. I also figure I can add to it if I want connect a piece to make a trolling motor mount.
Nice. It's such a dilemma, this space vs convenience thing. For your bolts, you might want to try "toilet flange" bolts from the plumbing Dept of a well stocked hardware store; you might be able to find brass ones which are easy to cut down (thread a nut on well below your cut in order to correct the threads after cutting) and hold up better in saltwater. That said, the brass & aluminum have a bad galvanic reaction so its best to spray the T-bolt w/ something waxy like Boeshield T9.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The ones I tried the other day would spin in the track. Maybe some brands are bigger. I may get some stainless carriage bolts.
Toilet bowl hardwear.... oval with flat sides. comes with rubber washers too!!!! Brass so no corrosion either. Nice job on the pipe works!
I think it might depend on the brand. I do use those as well but have had some of them that are just a little too small and lock in the track when I tighten them.
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Nice setup
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Thats legit.
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... For your bolts, you might want to try "toilet flange" bolts from the plumbing Dept of a well stocked hardware store; you might be able to find brass ones which are easy to cut down (thread a nut on well below your cut in order to correct the threads after cutting) and hold up better in saltwater. That said, the brass & aluminum have a bad galvanic reaction so its best to spray the T-bolt w/ something waxy like Boeshield T9.
You can get stainless flange bolts online. They are a pain to cut, but otherwise superior, IMHO.
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I like this idea. I keep taking stuff out of my box. Basically my box now holds everything for rigging and 1 water proof box for jigs and some paddle tails. I could probably take more out.
I find it easy to lay my net across the front of my boat with the handle pointed back to me. I keep it leashed but it rarely moves, even in rough water. When I'm fighting a fish it right in front and easy to access. I started doing this because the flounder on the east coast go nuts on the surface and if you don't keep good pressure on them they can spit the hook fast. I lost a couple by turning around to grab my net. Having the net in front of me makes it easy and I'm always ready.
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I like this idea. I keep taking stuff out of my box. Basically my box now holds everything for rigging and 1 water proof box for jigs and some paddle tails. I could probably take more out.
I find it easy to lay my net across the front of my boat with the handle pointed back to me. I keep it leashed but it rarely moves, even in rough water. When I'm fighting a fish it right in front and easy to access. I started doing this because the flounder on the east coast go nuts on the surface and if you don't keep good pressure on them they can spit the hook fast. I lost a couple by turning around to grab my net. Having the net in front of me makes it easy and I'm always ready.
That's one of the reasons I use a left handed reel. It's an easy reach without having to change hands on the rod when I grab the net. Now that I've moved it a little closer its even better. No need to turn around.