Kayak pedaling shoes?

Need some hive input on shoes you like for pedal kayaking.  I put in a lot of miles for sure, typical day is 12-20 miles and 6-10 hours.  I've been wearing a heavy duty dive bootie with a decent sole and I've even added insoles, but by midway through the day, the soles of my feet are usually pretty uncomfortable.

I'm a mountain and road biker and miss the stiff carbon soles of my bike shoes!  I'm thinking I need something more like a true shoe with some foam padding etc.  Maybe NRS Boundary boots, or...?  Thoughts?



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This is a great question, and I'd like to hear what others suggest.

I don't do 20 miles, but often pedal 12 or more in 6+ hours. I've got a high arch, and if I don't have good arch support, my feet will be killing me the next day.

I used to use Astral Brewer water shoes, with a stiff sole insert. That would be ideal IMHO, but they don't make those shoes in a large enough size for my feet with socks and drysuit booties, so my toes get very uncomfortable.

So, last year, I switched to large (and heavy) neoprene boots (not to be confused with flimsy wetsuit booties) with the same stiff sole insert. That worked, and as a bonus, they kept my feet warmer. However, I got a sore hip on my right side, and that pain has never completely gone away (I think it's bursitis). Rightly or wrongly, I blame those heavy shoes for the annoying hip issue.

So, this year I switched to plastic Birkenstocks. To keep my feet warm, I wear thin smartwool socks under thin neoprene socks inside my drysuit, then put thick (and large-size) ankle-high neoprene socks over the outside of the drysuit booties (this also serves to protect the drysuit booties). Then the Birkenstocks just slip on over the thick neoprene socks.

Although plastic Birkenstocks are expensive for glorified flip-flops, they are the only thing I've found that has a high enough arch for my feet, without using an insert in a shoe. So far, this has worked well for me, and I've had no problems with foot pain all year. My only complaint is that my feet do get cold in breezy/chilly weather.

Anyways, I'm sure that TMI. Again, I'll be interested to see what others who pedal a lot are doing.

Since 2012 I've used spd clip in pedals. I did buy the older solid aluminum arms which were threaded for pedals. I use a heavy soled mtb sandal on the water. Work great. I never looked back.

Since 2012 I've used spd clip in pedals. I did buy the older solid aluminum arms which were threaded for pedals. I use a heavy soled mtb sandal on the water. Work great. I never looked back.

If anybody wants to use bike pedals, and your mirage drive uses the older style Hobie crank arms (i.e, square aluminum tubing), it's not difficult to make your own crank arms out of solid 6061 aluminum 3/4" bar stock, and thread them for bike pedals. I've made a bunch of them in varying lengths, and found that I prefer slightly longer crank arms. As an added bonus, they won't break, like hollow crank arms have been known to do.

If you want to borrow the tools (drill bits, taps for bike pedals), let me know. You do need to use a drill press, but it's not a difficult job. And, solid 6061 aluminum in 3/4" bar stock is not too expensive--it looks like it currently goes for about $6/foot.

Intriguing stuff!  I have a Hobie 180 drive with rectangular arms. Are there pedal shafts available for those, or is that DYI too?  What pedals are you using that don't instantly get destroyed by salt water?  I don't fish freshwater at all.

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I love the NRS freestyle shoes been using them for the last couple years. Light and thin and comfortable. I found the NRS boundary boots to run too big but a lot of people like em.

Intriguing stuff!  I have a Hobie 180 drive with rectangular arms. Are there pedal shafts available for those, or is that DYI too?  What pedals are you using that don't instantly get destroyed by salt water?  I don't fish freshwater at all.

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Hobie sold all of their stock of solid arm threaded pedals a few years ago. As Nowhere man said, the aluminum 3/4 metal can be ordered. Another way to do this is used bike parts, often quite cheap. Buy the crankset, remove crank arms, Cut all but 3 or 4 inches from the crank arm with the threaded portion. Drill and bolt to your drive arms. To just test to see if you like it before drilling, wrap tightly with wire of string and some electrical or gorilla tape. Rinse pedals and swash with oil after trips. They hold up fine.

Have you considered using shoes you like?  Is skin friction a concern?

I used neoprene socks and old running shoes.

Intriguing stuff!  I have a Hobie 180 drive with rectangular arms. Are there pedal shafts available for those, or is that DYI too?  What pedals are you using that don't instantly get destroyed by salt water?  I don't fish freshwater at all.

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Sorry. Missed the question about what pedals. Shimano XT. Very salt water resistant. You can buy less expensive grades of Shimano also. Pedals don't get soaked being up high.

Intriguing stuff!  I have a Hobie 180 drive with rectangular arms. Are there pedal shafts available for those, or is that DYI too?  What pedals are you using that don't instantly get destroyed by salt water?  I don't fish freshwater at all.

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Sorry. Missed the question about what pedals. Shimano XT. Very salt water resistant. You can buy less expensive grades of Shimano also. Pedals don't get soaked being up high.

I carry a spare Mirage drive in the front hatch of my AI, and the only way I could get it to fit inside was to use "quick release" pedals; specifically these, which are aluminum and stainless:

https://www.amazon.com/London-Craftwork-Release-Pedals-BROMPTON/dp/B09319DPSF

They've held up well to saltwater. Of course, they're not clip-ins...

For those using SPD pedals, have you tried getting out of them when upside down, under water?  I realize u can loosen them up, but still seems pretty sketchy to be locked into your kayak. 

For those using SPD pedals, have you tried getting out of them when upside down, under water?  I realize u can loosen them up, but still seems pretty sketchy to be locked into your kayak.

That's a great question.

Really super information in all these posts, thank you guys!  Gives me many options to consider. May try the running shoe idea asap just to see if that's a quick solution before considering clip ins pedals which from a bikers perspective seems like the only mechanically efficient way to go.

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For those using SPD pedals, have you tried getting out of them when upside down, under water?  I realize u can loosen them up, but still seems pretty sketchy to be locked into your kayak.

Easy to detach from. Quick twist of foot and release. Also. Sandal straps are velcro so if a pedal stuck the shoe can be left clipped to pedal. One doesn't have to lock in to use the pedals in all situations either. Just push with toe of foot or arch. Where clipins really help are during long distance pedalling when pulling back on pedals relieves the push on pedal muscle group. Tightness is adjustable and I keep my yak pedals much looser than bike pedals.

Really super information in all these posts, thank you guys!  Gives me many options to consider. May try the running shoe idea asap just to see if that's a quick solution before considering clip ins pedals which from a bikers perspective seems like the only mechanically efficient way to go.

Why not a MTB shoe without the cleats?  You probably have an old pair lying around anyway. 

All the water or kayaking shoes I tried didnt have enough foot and ankle support and adding insoles was difficult and started to hurt after a couple of miles.
My current best cheapest solution is a wear wool socks (thickness depends on air temp), drysuit, and old running shoes (with enough sole for slippery launches) a couple sizes bigger than normal that fit the wool socks and drysuit booties.