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Messages - Poopsmith

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 26
1
Craftsmen's Corner / Re: Hull Protection
« on: March 27, 2024, 01:30:20 PM »
I ended up cleaning off some of my jb weld from 123eng's guide that chipped on the belly of my outback this year and sanded my hull back down smooth.

My pvc keel guard is still going good with just 3m tape sealed at the edges with lexel. Some JBweld there doesnt see much abuse so it has stayed intact.

2
Hobie Kayaks / Re: Guide - Metal 180 MD Sprocket Installation
« on: March 23, 2024, 06:30:26 PM »
pix2

3
Hobie Kayaks / Re: Guide - Metal 180 MD Sprocket Installation
« on: March 23, 2024, 06:29:19 PM »
pix

4
Hobie Kayaks / Guide - Metal 180 MD Sprocket Installation
« on: March 23, 2024, 06:28:09 PM »
As part of our ongoing discussions on the 180-drive failing, here is my brief picture guide to replacing the sprockets. Not a fun task but the thing feels heavy and bulletproof now but only time will tell.

Item from amazon seller Fever SG: https://a.co/d/8EGM4OB

Item feels CNC'd really nicely, maybe some sharp edges but none where shifter coords need to touch.

1. Take off chains and idler cables. I also am running this store’s red cables which are working great, just don’t over tighten them or the red sheathing will rub off.

2. Remove back cone, store rollers. I am running the Goss Etsy store ceramic bearings/Mod2 which makes this end really easy to deal with, these back rollers seem to be the first failure in spines as grit can get trapped back there when running into sand or debris, so highly recommend this mod, Hobie-wan has had his for a year and it's still going strong.

3. Unscrew the middle portion of the spine (pic 1) which will release the front sprocket as well. Store both sets of roller bearings from the middle and the shorter set in the front. Disassembled spine in pic 2 and 3.

4. To remove the old sprockets you need to remove the fin assembly from them. To do this rotate your fins halfway so that the little pin is exposed (pic 4). Move the shifting coords out of the way on both sides of the disc and punch that pin through, I was using a size 4 Allen bit and some pliers as a hammer (pic 5). The mast should slide out now (pic 6). I would focus on one sprocket at a time, but this step is the same for both sides.

5. Once the fin mast is out, the disc can be pushed/rocked out. Easiest when the flat notches are in line with the spine, once you have the disc out (pic 7), take note of the knot placement on the line, you will want to tie a figure 8 in that same placement for proper operation of the shifters (pic 8 ). This knot gets shoved back into the disc when putting everything back together.

6. Untie the knot and remove the old sprocket, take out the detent pin from the old sprocket and place in the new metal replacement (pic 9). Without this detent pin the discs will not hold the fins correctly. DO NOT THROW AWAY OLD SPROCKET WITHOUT REMOVING THIS PIN, SPRING, AND SCREW!

7. To put the sprockets back together, thread the line through and washers through the detent pin assembly, and out the disc area. Run cord through disc and tie the knot again, place the cables in their tracks and slide disc back into the sprocket. Place the fin mast back in, I had to push the disc into the detent pin to get the mast to line up correctly. Pin the mast but know that you may have the disc backwards and may need to pull this pin again, it might be best to just leave it unpinned. (refer to pics 4-9 again)

8. Once you have run your lines again, you can test the operation of the shifters and make sure everything is working properly (pic 10) don’t wait to have it assembled and notice that a disc is backwards  :smt010 (pic 14). This was an easy fix tho just flip the disc around on one side and it should operate correctly, no need to take the spine off again just some bearings to deal with if you have this same problem.

9. I recommend some grease to get the bearings to stay in their tracks while re-assembling (pic 11). I know that this grease may catch future grit so I will try to rinse it out, but it is needed to get the bearings to stay in place. This takes out a lot of headache when dealing with these damn roller bearings that are the dumbest part of these 180 drives. Front bearings first in pic 12 showing the washer and both sets of rollers staying in place with grease. Assemble this piece and screw it back into the drive (pic 1). Then do the rear sprocket and bearings (pic 13). You can see my Goss ceramic bearings here, these things are killer.

10. Once you have the spine re-attached, you can place chains then idler cables on and test function of the drive. Mine clicked a bit on the metal sprockets then worked great as the chains rested properly. Thing is heavy but works (pic 15), will test otw soon!



I hope this makes any future sprocket replacements easier for you folks, I had a hard time finding resources on the shifter cables, but they weren't crazy, you don't need to take them completely out and can leave them in place for the most part. Hobie will not replace any small parts of this spine so take care of that detent assembly in particular, Hobie receives these spines assembled and will not know what you are talking about when you can’t figure out something about the inner workings of the spine (ask me how I know). Lots of learning on this project and happy the nightmare is over!

Please let me know if I missed something or a step is unclear, I can update as needed.

5
my buddy says there may be a larger drum on new spines? This may be the issue you are having.

The red cables I have from amazon seem to have pretty long screw sections, lmk if you need a measurement.

6
The closest thing I have found are some videos replacing the boom mast https://youtu.be/KklyzD2f5Go?si=meMzacv8_MKaoiQk and a complete tear down by cornish kayak angler so far. https://youtu.be/7XCgb8Sjbi0?si=Kh2rNsHyd18XsK5Y Even he says to stay away from re-running the lines LOL

Thanks for the help hobie wan!

7
On a boat we had the seaquilizer descender attached to a downrigger and it was super convenient to just let them chill at 50' and then drop them down to 60' where it would pop, watching them on the FF.

I think for the kayak I might just pack a handline reel with the sfd setup but its looking like we will be fishing shallow and wont have much of a problem with healthy releases.

8
AOTY / Re: 2023 AOTY Results!!
« on: February 01, 2024, 04:21:08 PM »
Holy toledo thanks for the Belt AOTY Commision LOL

I am cracking up this thing is ridiculous, and you should see the wife's expression  :smt044

Tight lines for the next year everyone!

9
AOTY / Re: Electric Motors in AOTY
« on: January 26, 2024, 09:15:06 AM »
Pedal vs petal vs peddle: https://www.merriam-webster.com/grammar/petal-pedal-peddle-usage-difference

I think of a "peddle" kayak as a kayaker selling wares and trinkets on the water. Is this incorrect?  :smt005

Aren't we all just peddlers of shiny trinkets to the rocks and fish below?

Peddler of lead wares at least, "COME GET YER LEAD, 4oz, 8oz I GOT IT ALL"

10
AOTY / Re: 2023 AOTY Results!!
« on: January 18, 2024, 02:02:06 PM »
Bigole asterisks of a year but I'll take it (northern management got an extra month and a half before they pulled the rug on all of us)! Learned some new fisheries this year thanks to saltytherapy for kokes and matanaska for pac hali. Makes me miss being on the water but hopefully I'll get a first of the year cutthroat soon.

My new goal is to find one of those huge crappies this year lol!

11
AOTY / Re: AOTY please enter any 2023 fish.
« on: January 02, 2024, 04:59:18 PM »
getting the ole 404 error trying to view the site :smt010

no more fish to enter, my last of the year was a beautiful striped perch.

(trying the FnS Aoty as well this year but probably in last place over there till I learn to catch crappy)

12
General Fishing Tips / Re: Launching in surf with crab rings
« on: January 02, 2024, 03:17:41 PM »
Josiah is one fishy pirate

13
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Re: 250yds of dropper loops
« on: December 08, 2023, 11:56:03 AM »
Here is the item I saw, Rig mate. 40$..... https://hardwiretackle.com/products/rig-mate

loops are about 1.5 ft apart, I plan on snipping right below a loop and adding a quick perfection loop to attach to my clip. So 2-3 loops depending if I'm attaching a weight or a jig, then i can pick through some of the shrimp flys I tied last year.

14
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Re: 250yds of dropper loops
« on: December 07, 2023, 05:08:25 PM »
What you plan to catch?

Carpal tunnel and some rockfish/ling next year!

15
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / 250yds of dropper loops
« on: December 07, 2023, 04:50:53 PM »
I saw this commercial for an outfit selling dropper loops that came out of a roll for simple shrimp fly rigs, so I've decided to work on this during the winter months.

I usually have a couple pretied rigs of shrimp flys or a fly to a jig but I think this will be more organized and convenient.

Simple double uni to keep the loop perpendicular then through a dropper loop. There is sometimes an issue with line twist while I'm tying but I can usually get it to twist up  in the loop section and the rest of the line relaxes.

Cheap 50# green line, I wanted 40# but couldn't find it at the store. And this large empty spool that came with some 100lb mono. Might take me a while to tye this up but then ill be set for a while, as long as it doesn't get too tangled coming out!

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