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Topics - Aespo90

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1
Hey Guys,

I see more and more Stealth anglers wanting to install a through hull transducer in the Stealth kayaks that do not have the recess.  I went ahead and performed the install on my 500.  Attached are some photos and a quick walk through of how I did it.

***I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MANGLE YOUR KAYAK.  THIS IS JUST HOW I WENT ABOUT DOING THIS.***

Tools/materials I used - The links used are associate links.  By using them to get to amazon, even if you don't buy the item in the link, but buy something else, I earn a small commission, but it doesn't cost you any extra.

-Caulking Gun (https://amzn.to/3w7mqo0)
-Drill Motor (https://amzn.to/3FjpyRV)
-1" hole saw for fiberglass (https://amzn.to/3yifhUC)
-Fish tape (https://amzn.to/382FGuY)
-Black marker, easy to see on my hull. (https://amzn.to/3OVKrXU)
-Green Powerpro (https://amzn.to/3vKj23I)
-Sanding Block (https://amzn.to/38NKuEv)
-Sand Paper (I used 320 grit) (https://amzn.to/38584g2)
-Masking tape (https://amzn.to/3KL6op4)
-Electrical tape (https://amzn.to/3OXiaAc)
-Marine silicone FOR USE BELOW WATERLINE (I used 3m 4200 in black) (https://amzn.to/3OQ5gUu)
-Custom 3d printed hole sleeve and cover (seen below) (you can contact me if you want to buy this set, its $25 shipped at the time of this posting)
-Rags, lots of them. (https://amzn.to/382ECY1)

I set my kayak on some saw horses upright and removed everything from the inside.  Then I went ahead and removed the rudder form the kayak.  After it was empty and the rudder was removed, I flipped it over so the hull was facing the sky.

I then took some masking tape and attached a piece of green power pro from the bow to the stern as a representation of where the center line of the kayak was.  Once I had that secured and stretched tight, I placed the transducer on the hull by hand where I thought I might like it and traced around it with the black marker.  I then estimated where the wire would have to pass through, so that it wasn't bent at too hard of an angle, but was close enough that it wasn't going to be a snagging hazard on the bottom, I set my plastic printed clam shell over the wire to get a feel for how it would fit with the wire and that the wire wasnt going to be so close that it was rigid and lifted the shell.  Once I had that lined up, I marked a  center point with the marker where hole would go.  For this transducer it is a 1" hole.

I removed the items from the hull, and used the sanding block and sand paper to rough up the space that I traced with the black marker, I took care here to not scuff anything outside the line.  If I were to do this again I would mark a crosshair in the space that extends out about 6" on either side left to right and front to back, that is directly centered with the kayak from left to right, and centered with your tracing from front to back (we will touch on this in a bit).   

Once that space was sufficiently "roughed" I used the 1" hole saw and the drill motor to drill my hole.  There is a couple of foam runners in the hull, they moved fairly easily out of the way.  I then used some sand paper by hand to clean the edge of the hole so that it would not wear on anything passing through it.

Once the hole was clear I passed the connector end into the hull.  It was to far to go from the hole to the outlet in the fish hatch where I needed to extract it so I had to pull it out and attach it with tape to a fiberglass fish tape.  Once I had that secured together, I fished the connector through the hole and by way of kind of jiggling and rotating the fish tape back and forth I managed to work it up to the hole in the fish hatch,  I unsecured the tape there, pulled the connector out of the fish hatch hole and removed the fish tape through the exterior hole.

The hard part was done.

Now that I had the transducer on the outside of the hull, the wire inside the hull, and the connector in the fish hatch, it was time to secure everything and seal the hole. 

I went ahead and applied a layer of silicone on the bottom of the transducer in an even monotonic order so that it was consistent across the entire mating surface, (I put way too much on it fwiw).  I lined up the transducer with the sanded area and pressed it down.  At this point the excess silicone oozed out and covered my marker lines, so I had to eye ball to try and get it straight.  This where the crosshair would have come in handy for centering the transducer.  I cleaned up everything that oozed out. and left the transducer to set.

I then slipped the sleeve over the wire which was now in the hull and used a short length of electrical tape to make a cone around the "bottom" of the sleeve and the wire (this secured the sleeve to the wire lightly, so I had to put it where it would go once it was installed.)  The purpose of this "cone" was to fill with silicone, so that it didn't just pour into my hull.  Once that was "made up" I made a bead of silicone around the edge of the hull and pressed the sleeve into the hole.  This caused the silicone to ooze out around the lip of the sleeve, that was ok because I wanted it to be secure, and it will be covered anyways.  I then filled the sleeve/cone with silicone sealing around the wire where its penetrating into the hull.  This is what actually seals the hole. and prevents water intrusion.

Once that was installed I filled the clamshell piece with silicon and lined it up where I wanted it to go to protect the wire where it went into the hull, and I pressed it on.  Again, silicone ooze was present so I lightly wiped it away and tried my best to clean it up. 

I let it set for about an hour while I cleaned up and then used a plastic razor blade to scrape some of the excess silicone off of the kayak.  I left enough on there that one can tell it was not professionally installed but it doesn't look terrible, and it keeps the water out, while allowing me to see all the things I couldn't with an in hull transducer.  I have since been out on the water a number of times and I do not take on any excess water with this mod.

Edit:  I forgot to mention that I left my original transducer installed in the hull and sealed the cable,  I can actually run both at the same time with my unit, but I dont want the excess battery drain on the water, however if the external transducer were to break or have issues I can quickly swap to the original transducer.

Thanks for reading.  If you enjoyed this consider checking me out on instagram (@blackflag_fishing) and youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8uslKldedfJq90gfelHXRw

3d Printed Components below:

2
Stealth / In Hatch Tackle Bucket For Stealth Kayaks
« on: September 26, 2021, 03:30:17 PM »
So I designed and printed one of these for myself.  I might make a couple of minor changes for drainage but it works great and fits in the hull.  It does not require any drilling.  Holds pliers, and one other tool beside them, a couple of bags of plastics, hooks, a spool of leader, and has some slots for lures or hooks to hang. 

Any interest in this?

Thanks Anthony

3
For Sale / Avet TRX 80W brand new in box
« on: July 27, 2021, 12:42:29 PM »
I was gifted this reel.  It is brand new and has never seen water, never been mounted on a rod, nor has it ever been spooled with line.  However I don't have a boat, a bent butt rod, etc. and all the party boats have their own kite gear.  I am looking to get $900 for the reel.  It is silver.



I am in SoCal so we can figure out the shipping.



Thanks for looking,

Anthony

4
Stealth / Bit the Bullet - Stealth Questions. help please!
« on: October 16, 2020, 12:35:50 PM »
Sold my Outback and getting into a Stealth Fusion 480 Fisha 460 500.  I am curious as to how you guys like to mount your accessories? Particularly the sounder.  I currently use an elite7 ti2 and I know that's a larger unit.  I have the HDI xducer, not the 3-in-1 so I should be able to fit it into the scupper recess on the new hull.


Im also curious if you can fit 8' rods in the hull?

Thanks

edit: doesnt look like an 8' will go into the 460, what about the 500?


5
Stealth / Paddle advice
« on: October 13, 2020, 02:09:37 PM »
Hi guys,

I am interested in moving into a stealth kayak.  I have been kayak fishing for a few years and currently fish on a Hobie Outback, and an OK Trident 15. 

When I ride the Trident I am using a CF werner kalliste with the bent shaft, but it never really offered the kind of "oomph" or "torque" that I am looking for.  Prior to this I owned a werner Tybee which was a little more "torquey" is that makes sense.  I also have some limited experience paddling on flat water with a werner skagit.  The skagit and the kalliste are both longer narrower blades, I gather that i probaby prefer a shorter wider blade, as I like a more vertical stroke when paddling.

With that being said, I have seen a few of the stealth kayak paddles and they look pretty unusual compared to what I am used to seeing here in the states, but they appear to be completely functional and probably pair well with the stealth kayaks, given that those too are fairly unusual relative to our state side offerings.

I am curious as to what kind of paddles you guys pair with your kayaks, and how you like them.

6
Introductions / Hey Guys, New here!
« on: October 13, 2020, 02:00:51 PM »
Hey everyone.  I am new to the forum.  I live in southern california but i would like to expand my fishing up into the northern end of the state.  I primarily fish from kayaks.  Right now I ride a hobie outback and a trident 15.

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