Securing Attwood mounts

I'm putting a Jackson seat in my Outback with Attwood mounts.  The area I'm putting the mounts are not accessable from inside the hull.  Are there available some sort of molly or other ? that I can secure these mounts with?  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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Looking forward to hearing how you like the new seat after you get it installed.

Have not ever had to do this myself, but this is what I'd try. You'd have to make a custom backing plate---I think 1/4" or 3/8" starboard plastic (or an old plastic cutting board) would work well for that.

Threaded insert rivet.

Have not ever had to do this myself, but this is what I'd try. You'd have to make a custom backing plate---I think 1/4" or 3/8" starboard plastic (or an old plastic cutting board) would work well for that.

Thanks for the comment however I have only one screw hole to work with so this method won't work for me.  I've seen what I'm trying to do before but they don't show how they got a backing washer or plate on the back.  I was also thinking about using Well-nuts but don't know if this will provide enough strength for my purpose.

Thanks for the comment however I have only one screw hole to work with so this method won't work for me.  I've seen what I'm trying to do before but they don't show how they got a backing washer or plate on the back.  I was also thinking about using Well-nuts but don't know if this will provide enough strength for my purpose.

If you use, say, 30# braid instead of thick rope, it could work with just a single hole. In any case, I'd be reluctant to use anything with only one bolt to hold it in place, as the seat will likely create a lot of stress, not to mention that it might twist and turn. I'd use something like this instead:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/yakgear--kayak-paddle-clip-kit--18146753?recordNum=3

Threaded insert rivet.

That's pretty cool, but I wouldn't trust it to have much holding power in kayak plastic. Looks like you'd want to have a (stainless) fender washer as backing for it to bite into...

Thanks for the comment however I have only one screw hole to work with so this method won't work for me.  I've seen what I'm trying to do before but they don't show how they got a backing washer or plate on the back.  I was also thinking about using Well-nuts but don't know if this will provide enough strength for my purpose.

If you use, say, 30# braid instead of thick rope, it could work with just a single hole. In any case, I'd be reluctant to use anything with only one bolt to hold it in place, as the seat will likely create a lot of stress, not to mention that it might twist and turn. I'd use something like this instead:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/yakgear--kayak-paddle-clip-kit--18146753?recordNum=3

I like your idea however the tubing I used on the seat is 3/4 inch OD and the Yak Gear clamp is for 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch diameter paddle shafts.  If I could put a fender washer on a bolt thru design I'd do that but I can't reach the backside of the application....it's just too far from any access hatch.  I need longer skinnier arms!!!  Thanks for chiming in.  I appreciate your imput.

I like your idea however the tubing I used on the seat is 3/4 inch OD and the Yak Gear clamp is for 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch diameter paddle shafts.  If I could put a fender washer on a bolt thru design I'd do that but I can't reach the backside of the application....it's just too far from any access hatch.  I need longer skinnier arms!!!  Thanks for chiming in.  I appreciate your imput.

You might be able to find some PVC or ABS tubing that'll fit over the aluminum tubing on the seat frame and bring it up to size for the bigger clamp...

Or you might be able to drill another hole in each bracket---maybe on hole on each side, instead of the one in the middle...

when I was trying to put a nut on my h-rail, it was a pain in the butt. I have an outback with the square hatch which provided some room to access it but the rod holder extend down so visually I can't see where I am working. For some miracle I was able to put the nut on with using a gopro with wifi viewing and got it on. Now I have to remove my h-rail to do some other things

When I was researching, I'm wondering if the snap toggle would work and be as strong. here is what I am talking about





https://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M

Thanks for the comment however I have only one screw hole to work with so this method won't work for me.  I've seen what I'm trying to do before but they don't show how they got a backing washer or plate on the back.  I was also thinking about using Well-nuts but don't know if this will provide enough strength for my purpose.

If you use, say, 30# braid instead of thick rope, it could work with just a single hole. In any case, I'd be reluctant to use anything with only one bolt to hold it in place, as the seat will likely create a lot of stress, not to mention that it might twist and turn. I'd use something like this instead:

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/yakgear--kayak-paddle-clip-kit--18146753?recordNum=3

I like your idea however the tubing I used on the seat is 3/4 inch OD and the Yak Gear clamp is for 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inch diameter paddle shafts.  If I could put a fender washer on a bolt thru design I'd do that but I can't reach the backside of the application....it's just too far from any access hatch.  I need longer skinnier arms!!!  Thanks for chiming in.  I appreciate your imput.

Aren't there long jointed extensions with a magnetic tip while using a mirror.

The area I'm putting the mounts are not accessable from inside the hull.

If you use the method shown in below video, there's no area you can't reach. You don't need the Rigging Bullet, just copy the method. You will need a backing plate with nuts on it (or thread the holes in the plate).
(If the mount doesn't have holes where you can screw down from the top, then I would mount the Attwood on an aluminum plate half inch longer on each side, so that you have room for two screws. Use flush head screws to go thru the plate from the bottom to tighten the Attwood. Then you can screw the whole thing down from the top.)

Seems fairly easy if you can fabricate the plates to mount the Attwood and the backing plate.

In the past...I may have glued nylon locking nuts to a cutting-board backing plate, then secured the backing plate in the right spot using a long stick and chewing gum.
But if I was to do it again, I would get thicker backing plate material and heat up the locking nuts so they ‘sink’ into the plastic backing plate. Because it would probably do a better job of preventing the nuts from spinning than glue.

I would get thicker backing plate material and heat up the locking nuts so they ‘sink’ into the plastic backing plate. Because it would probably do a better job of preventing the nuts from spinning than glue.

This sounds good but I tried it and could not get it to work. I think you’d be better off drilling a hole that’s slightly smaller than the nut, then hammer it into the backing plate.