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Topic: Replacing the rudder control lines?  (Read 5322 times)

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MBYakker

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So - after a brief (less than 2yrs) love affair with my Hobie revolution, the honeymoon is over.  The rudder control line snapped on me, resulting in an uberlame paddle home (revolution paddles remarkably like a bathtub)  :smt013

Have any of you tried replacing your rudder control lines?  I managed to find a faq on the hobie site but it looks like a major PITA. 

About a year ago, the up/down rudder deployment stopped working . .but I've been limping along doing it by hand because the replacement looks like such a pain.  Now I suppose it's unavoidable . .although some of the new cobras are lookin sweet!

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Tote

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How much ya want for the Revolution?????  :smt003
<=>


MBYakker

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How much ya want for the Revolution?????  :smt003

I don't know . .it was one of the first ones out (so there are diff between the new model rudder and this one) and it really is/has been quite the lemon . . .I dont think it's worth much nor would I feel right about selling it to another board member . . .

I will probably try to find a shop that can repair it and see how much they want before I do anything else.
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ZeeHokkaido

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resulting in an uberlame paddle home (revolution paddles remarkably like a bathtub)  :smt013

Apparently you've never tried to paddle the Outback..  :smt003

Have any of you tried replacing your rudder control lines?  I managed to find a faq on the hobie site but it looks like a major PITA. 

You know, that's the first time I've ever heard of that problem. Hobie's aren't a standard rubber duckie of a kayak, it's got moving parts so IMO that's part of owning one. Is this the manual you found on the Hobie site? http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/80018.pdf Just my opinion but it doesn't look too crazy to fix.

Sounds like you really liked that yak so before you go and sell it you might want to give it a hail mary shot. And if not, Tote's the man you should sell it to. He'll put it to good fish slaying use.

Z
« Last Edit: July 16, 2008, 11:06:16 AM by Zeelander »
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Thanks for posting that Z,  I've been waiting for this hang up to Happen...
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MBYakker

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You know, that's the first time I've ever heard of that problem. Hobie's aren't a standard rubber duckie of a kayak, it's got moving parts so IMO that's part of owning one. Is this the manual you found on the Hobie site? http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/80018.pdf Just my opinion but it doesn't look too crazy to fix.

Sounds like you really liked that yak so before you go and sell it you might want to give it a hail mary shot. And if not, Tote's the man you should sell it to. He'll put it to good fish slaying use.

Z

Yeah - I did find that manual . .but thats a different rudder system than what is installed in my revolution.  I'm speculating that is because they have since redesigned it since I bought one of the first Revolutions out . . but I don't really know.  That is a very diff looking assembly in the video, though.

I did like it when it was working well which is why, if I can get it fixed for less than maybe $200 I'll give it a go.

Yeah - as far as moving parts go I've tried to stay on top of that . . keeping the drive system clean and making sure to rinse well after use (it only saw salt water twice).  It looks like the cable was frayed against the plastic and metal housing (the plastic part has a pretty deep groove worn in it). 

I didn't even really get much opportunity to use it . . I've had it 2 years but I estimate it has been used about 12 times.

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troller

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if you have the old plastic type of line , your hobie dealer should be able to replace with spectra line    its really easy to do  plus have them check out your up/down system also   the revs are notorious for get the line tangled when flipping upside down and back

P.S.   mention that you are a norcal member at windtoys and they will take care of you
« Last Edit: July 18, 2008, 08:12:57 AM by troller »


&

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I replaced my rudder controls on my older outback, it was the flip up model, not flip and stow.  it wasn't too bad, just took time.  just tie the lines with as much tension on the lines as you can, then fine tune with the interior zip ties and shockcord.

like i said, took a bit of time, too much in fact, that when i had to replace a snapped rudder on my mirage tandem, i just had Mel Cotton's do it.  The manager did it for the replacement parts costs/ no labor.


Fuzzy Tom

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Not a Hobie, and maybe the only useful info for you in the following post is that I bought some nylon coated stainless steel fishing line at West and made my own control lines using the sweges (crimps) they also sell. They have a crimping tool for sale, but I just used the wire cutter part of my vice grips.  The stuff is 170 lb test, and it has held up well over the last year or so of use.  It's Sevalon , nylon covered, kink resistant, slides easily over the plastic.  Just remember to note how long things are before you remove any parts so you can get it the right length.
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,10627.0.html