Setting up a whole house Generator

My place just lost power again.  I think it's been 5 times in the past month or so.  We have a couple Hondas which are great to run the RV that we are staying in during the house remodel but we also have the house, shop, well water pump and shop all on separate lines.

So now I have to run around and plug stuff in separately like the multiple freezers which are in different locations.  Still haven't figured out how to power just the well pump as it is hard wired. 

So we will eventually set up a full house automatic generator but wanted to set up the connection at the main box that I can manually switch and hook a generator to until we make the more expensive investment. 

Any ideas on something I can install now but will also be compatible with a future expansion of the system. 

5 times? Crap.
I've done this before using a couple of options - I think I would get an transfer switch box with a generator capable of running the main service panel, then it is all covered. The other way is to backup select circuits which will run critical items like you've mentioned and then a few that you can add as needed. One of the main things is determining how long you need the backup power to be able to run on your fuel source.

You could add a manual switch and plug for the pump to use a generator for the meantime.

An example for the whole panel:
Generator:
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Generac-Guardian-7037-SD-Standby-Generator/p73185.html

Switch:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200608133_200608133

You can also size down some to accommodate actual load usage.

I'd say first thing is figuring out exactly what generator and system you intend on using then wire per that specifically. It's never a good idea to pre wire until your sure of exactly what your using because it's cost a lot more to re-do it again later.

I believe you need a manual transfer switch, aka an on/off/on or
Closed/open/closed.
It is essential with solar power though most inverters have one that's built in.
It also isolates your generator power to your house so you don't allow that current to flow back out to PG&E lines.
Good luck
\ooo:

yeah,manual transfer switch wired to the box. shut off the main power at the meter, put all circuits on the transfer switch from"utility" to "off", fire up gennie, then bring the circuits online to"gen" power 1 at a time.

I did this in November 2015 with the help of my father-in-law (retired industrial electrician) and it was an easy weekend job once we had all the parts. He did the connections and I did all the wire pulling under the house. I got both the plug and switch  from Northern tool when I bought the Gennie so I knew they would all work together. I've used it only once since but it works like a charm to run all the important stuff (kitchen,internet/computer, tv, washer/dryer,  booster and pressure tank for the water system). It was great to be showered and watching netflix while all the houses around us were dark a few weeks ago. We went minimalist so only select circuits were wired up, but we still have one unused 220 if we need it someday.

My only error was that I bought an exterior transfer switch for an interior application, but we made it work and it will look fine once the bathroom is fully renovated.

I had a propane generator in Reno at my house. It would kick on automatically every seven days and run to keep everything lubricated. When the power kicked out, it would automatically kick on, automatic switch with anti-backfeed to the power system. It would run about ten circuits in the house-the essentials. Once the power came back on, I had to shut down the genset and manually open the switch to allow line power back in. In 2001, cost me $5,400.

Thanks for all the info. 

We had one like John posted when we lived in Albion and it kicked on when power went out.  It did fry electronics on occasion so probably not set up right.  We do plan on doing that again and maybe adding solar down the road. 

The manual switch sounds like it will work for now.  I wasn't sure if the smart switch would work when manually hooking up a generator or is it just overkill for now. 

A quality surge protector will usually remedy the electrical overstress (EOS) or voltage spike that may occur during utility/generator hand-off that can affect the sensitive electronics.

I think I would opt for a service panel surge protector and then use small battery backups for any computers, switches or medical devices.

I had a propane generator in Reno at my house. It would kick on automatically every seven days and run to keep everything lubricated. When the power kicked out, it would automatically kick on, automatic switch with anti-backfeed to the power system. It would run about ten circuits in the house-the essentials. Once the power came back on, I had to shut down the genset and manually open the switch to allow line power back in. In 2001, cost me $5,400.

I paid about $6000 total for the whole setup in 2015 with the gennie being close to $4k. I got the Gennie on sale, and only had to buy beer and steak for the FIL labor. The switch, plug,and wiring made up the rest.

Just FYI, I'm in an unincorporated area within the county of Santa Cruz, and in researching this project  we were told by two contractors that to have a stand by generator we would have to purchase a permit from the county to install the anti-backfeed kajigger at our utility main. I don't recall the actual permit cost, but I think it was close to $5000 alone.

We've got a modest sized propane powered standby generator with automatic transfer switch. It was about $2400 several years ago and we could get a much better one today for less than $2k. We installed it ourselves which is not too difficult, but tedious. I'm glad we have it as our electricity is often out (usually not for more than half a day, but it happens so often it's ridiculous). PG&E won't trim the trees along our drive, so we have had a couple of extended outages when falling trees damaged the service entrance. I guess that's just life in unincorporated Santa Clara county...

Anyways, my only suggestion would be to go all in. That is, get a whole house system with automatic transfer switch. Prices are good now, so no point in having a setup that is sub-optimal.

Anyways, my only suggestion would be to go all in. That is, get a whole house system with automatic transfer switch. Prices are good now, so no point in having a setup that is sub-optimal.

We don't have credit cards and pay cash for everything we purchase and have spent an enormous amount of cash just getting into this property.  I have already gutted the entire house and found numerous issues that needed to be fixed before putting Sheetrock back up in spots.  I have to remove and or replace the leaking skylights and most likely need a new roof while I am at it.  So we are doing what we can in the order of priority.  My wife still wants a full garden and some food animals.  So a switch I can put my current generators into will suffice until we can do it right.  I so want to be off the grid.  I am sick of paying PG&E. 

We are getting close to having a couple finished rooms and a fully functional bathroom.  My wife is going nuts in the RV and I just pretend we are camping 24/7. 

Maybe consider hiring an electrician or electrical engineer to design you a system specific to your house and provide you a schematic, a mechanical diagram and bill of materials with specs.  (wire sizing for example)  Maybe add a page for the installation steps so you proceed in a correct order for installation.  That might cost a couple hundred bucks or so, but at least you know you won't be putting yourself, family or electrical utility worker in harms way.   

Just be sure you are familiar working with electricity.  It can really bite you in the ass!! 

   I know it's not "legal" ,,, but without spending tons of $$$   here's how I hooked up my home.   Been using it this way for nearly two decades now.  Our power goes out with a light breeze... short durations usually , but there's been a few times 4 days without.
    I shut off the Main breaker, this isolates from PGE.
   Shut off all the 220 v breakers ( like  water heater) because the generator only puts out 110v and wattage is limited. .
  Then I plug a cord into my Honda 2200 w  generator. the other end wired to a 220 plug outlet,, this breaker that serves this plug is now the main for the "Generator" power.  The cord is wired  to feed 110v into both sides of the 220...   
    I now have 110v power to all the 110v circuits in the house.  TV, microwave, all the lights.   most of the time the generator is idleing in low power mode.,, unless we run too many high amp draw items.. ( hair dryer, microwave,,,etc. )
   When the power comes back on,,,  reverse procedure to disconnect,,, before throwing the Main back on from PG&E..
    I'd advice a disconnect / transfer switch if not confident in what you're doing.  At least this is very inexpensive method of getting by. Keeping the freezer food frozen.   Of course if you have a 220v generator... you just need to plug it into a 220v receptacle.. Again,,, the danger is that you forget to isolate yourself from PG&E lines...  BOOOM

   I know it's not "legal" ,,, but without spending tons of $$$   here's how I hooked up my home.   Been using it this way for nearly two decades now.  Our power goes out with a light breeze... short durations usually , but there's been a few times 4 days without.
    I shut off the Main breaker, this isolates from PGE.
   Shut off all the 220 v breakers ( like  water heater) because the generator only puts out 110v and wattage is limited. .
  Then I plug a cord into my Honda 2200 w  generator. the other end wired to a 220 plug outlet,, this breaker that serves this plug is now the main for the "Generator" power.  The cord is wired  to feed 110v into both sides of the 220...   
    I now have 110v power to all the 110v circuits in the house.  TV, microwave, all the lights.   most of the time the generator is idleing in low power mode.,, unless we run too many high amp draw items.. ( hair dryer, microwave,,,etc. )
   When the power comes back on,,,  reverse procedure to disconnect,,, before throwing the Main back on from PG&E..
    I'd advice a disconnect / transfer switch if not confident in what you're doing.  At least this is very inexpensive method of getting by. Keeping the freezer food frozen.   Of course if you have a 220v generator... you just need to plug it into a 220v receptacle.. Again,,, the danger is that you forget to isolate yourself from PG&E lines...  BOOOM

My Neigbor does it like this and I was a little skeptical on it being safe. 

How do you know when the power is back? 

Maybe consider hiring an electrician or electrical engineer to design you a system specific to your house and provide you a schematic, a mechanical diagram and bill of materials with specs.  (wire sizing for example)  Maybe add a page for the installation steps so you proceed in a correct order for installation.  That might cost a couple hundred bucks or so, but at least you know you won't be putting yourself, family or electrical utility worker in harms way.   

Just be sure you are familiar working with electricity.  It can really bite you in the ass!!

Definitely going to get a pro involved when it's time to blueprint out a solar and battery back up system.  But for now I am looking for an economical solution to get more than my RV powered during outages.  And when I get to the execution part I will pay for the instal if I am connecting to the main power.