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Topic: Instead of pool noodles.....  (Read 17524 times)

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LoletaEric

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I am a licensed guide.  DFW Guide ID:  1000124.   Let's do a trip together.

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outback

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Kayak float bags work great.  They conform to the kayak, take up a lot of volume if desired, are easily removed, and easily installed.  We recommend them for any kayak without bulkheads, including sit-on-tops.
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kayakjack

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Yeah, I'm with you on  the float bags outback. I believe they are more effective at displacing water. However, pool noodles are cheaper. If you buy the good quality float bags, they will last for years and years.


CCCoyote

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How about standing the kayak on it's tail and filling it to the desired level with styrafoam peanuts ,then making a bulkhead
out of 2" thick styrafoam and glue it in.. all i have is a front hatch and no other access to the hold.. the interior molding of the kayak prevents me from properly filling with noodles..  what cha think??


AlsHobieOutback

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How about standing the kayak on it's tail and filling it to the desired level with styrafoam peanuts ,then making a bulkhead
out of 2" thick styrafoam and glue it in.. all i have is a front hatch and no other access to the hold.. the interior molding of the kayak prevents me from properly filling with noodles..  what cha think??
If your drain plug is in the rear, ya might re-think this idea. 
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Baitman

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Styrofoam will absorb water over time...   
Sometimes the fish isn't the only prize.
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You must pass through the valley of stupidity to ascend the mountain of knowledge.


ex-kayaker

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Whats the water saturation rate on the polyurethane foam you're using. All the 6lb foam I carved out of my boat was wet, heavy and smelled of mold.  I've heard the modern 2 part foams are more resistant to saturation but nobody can cite a referrence or direct me toward a product.   
..........agarcia is just an ex-kayaker


ravensblack

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DrHabanero

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Craig,
 Have you used this yet? It looks like a great option and think i will look into putting in my new Ultra 4.7.  It seems like it would be great to use and was thinking about when I add rod pod tube I would put this in first then screw the pod in. Do you think it would buckle the tube if I did it in this method or would the foam go around the tube?  Thanks for the link and will proably go this route rather than noodles.
Later
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ravensblack

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Jim at Santa Cruz Kayaks uses this product. He said he puts it in all he boats he makes. I just provided the link to his info again. The only weak link in the 4.7 is the front hatch and a rod hoder if its torn away. The center hatch is waterproof to the hull. I installed the rod tube on mine.
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Baitman

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As far as I can tell it's not absorbing water at all.      I put a big chunk of it under water once.   Weighed it before and after 10 days pulled it out, shook off the surface water and reweighed.  It didn't seem to absorb any water.     Styrofoam type foam however does absorb and subsequently gets very heavy.  Styrene foam was used in the old days of early fiberglass boat construction.     Polyurethane Foam I talked about earlier is coast gaurd approved for this purpose.       Craig mentioned before about coating  The PU foam with paint or sealer...  you could, but I seriously don't think it's necessary.     I use it under the seat of my kayak.  Been using the same seat for about 9 months now and can't see any adverse problems with it.
    Not sure how well it will stick inside a polyethylene hull over a period of time I'm sure it will loosen it's grip on the inside of your hull. If that's a problem you could always form a bead of that goop around the cured foam.   Depending on the hull shape or any type of protrusions , like the molded-in  inserts,  it's possible the foam will lock itself inside the hull as it foams up.     For those who have not used this product before, its simply mixing two equal parts of  resin and hardener for 20 seconds,  pour it in where you want it to expand.   Presto Chango,! it's a cured solid block of foam in minutes.   You can use plastic sheeting  to contain it, protect areas you don't want the foam to go..   Even shape it by temporarily building a cardboard bulkhead pattern, or whatever...  tube   shapes for your rods to lay into.  The plastic peels off easily after the foam cures.
   
          Foam would be bombproof for floatation.  it does add weight though.   Floatation air bags, also a good choice, are made from a very tuff nylon coated material and easy to install.   a little more maintenance required with air bags.   Plus you could always pull em out if selling the kayak you have now to buy a new Raptor.   :smt003
Either way you decide to go,  it's pretty much agreed that Floatation can save you a lot of grief.   No body expects accidents to happen, but you need to be prepared for when they do.
Sometimes the fish isn't the only prize.
2nd place  Simply Fishing 2013
   Designer  Raptor kayaks





You must pass through the valley of stupidity to ascend the mountain of knowledge.


 

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