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Topic: cleat for Hobie sail?  (Read 4079 times)

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NowhereMan

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Yesterday, I finally got a chance to try out my new sail on my Adventure. I don't have the AI, just the "A", so it's the small sail. There was only a light wind, so it was easy, but still a lot of fun. Of course, I made a brief video...



The only issue I had is that after only about an hour, my hand was getting tired from holding the line. So, I figure I need a cleat. However, on the Hobie forum, one of the Hobie officials (Matt Miller) posted the following: "Cleats for sails are not recommended on the kayaks. Kayaks are a bit tippy due to the sail size, so holding the line is highly recommended."

I'm wondering what you experienced kayak sailing people think: To cleat or not to cleat, that is the question. And if "to cleat" is OK, any particular recommendations? Thanks.

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EWB

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« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 10:07:15 AM by EWB »
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Fish 'n Brew

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I have a jam cleat on my Revo and it's really easy to release.  I also use the Hobie amas for stability.


Salty.

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I use a Harken cam cleat with accessory, black plastic, fairlead. I tie the rope in a knot at the end so it can't pass thru the fairlead when un-cleated.


NowhereMan

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Thanks for the replies. I happen to have a cam cleat available (same as the one used on the rudder "down" line) and it looks like that would work well. The most natural place to put it would be on the right gunwale, but that might get in the way during self-rescue. Any suggestions as to where to place the cleat so that it's both convenient and somewhat out of the way?
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Salty.

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I have mine on the left gunwale behind the seat but in front of the molded in rod holder. I also use the same cam cleat for my quick release anchor line. I remove the fairlead for this usage. For the Hobie sail kit I'm using this cleat to tension the sail, for the line attached to the sail, as I use the Hobie furling kit to furl/unfurl. This way I can furl/unfurl with my right hand & tension/untension the sail with my left.


Joel

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I have a jam cleat that is set up on a 550 cord set up so that I didn't have to drill any holes.


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I use a Z cleat as it also helps store extra rope that way with larger or smaller loops. 

BTW, at the end of your video, what furling system are you using?


NowhereMan

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I use a Z cleat as it also helps store extra rope that way with larger or smaller loops. 

BTW, at the end of your video, what furling system are you using?

That's the Hobie furling kit:
http://www.austinkayak.com/products/13585/Hobie-Kayak-Sail-Furler-Kit.html

It works, but for what they charge I'd expect a little more quality controls---one of the knobs was on backwards (had to untie the rope and reposition it). And, it seems to me that the rope should be a little bit longer, so I'll eventually replace that.
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NowhereMan

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I have mine on the left gunwale behind the seat but in front of the molded in rod holder. I also use the same cam cleat for my quick release anchor line. I remove the fairlead for this usage. For the Hobie sail kit I'm using this cleat to tension the sail, for the line attached to the sail, as I use the Hobie furling kit to furl/unfurl. This way I can furl/unfurl with my right hand & tension/untension the sail with my left.

That's interesting. I was thinking that the screw-in cleat on the gunwale (about mid-thigh) would be ideal.
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Dry Bones

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I have mine set up with the PXR spin lock cam cleat recommended by Rudy (Halibu77).  Here is his video showing his furling system and cleat.




Salty.

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I have mine on the left gunwale behind the seat but in front of the molded in rod holder. I also use the same cam cleat for my quick release anchor line. I remove the fairlead for this usage. For the Hobie sail kit I'm using this cleat to tension the sail, for the line attached to the sail, as I use the Hobie furling kit to furl/unfurl. This way I can furl/unfurl with my right hand & tension/untension the sail with my left.

That's interesting. I was thinking that the screw-in cleat on the gunwale (about mid-thigh) would be ideal.


I played around with a lot of different options & for me that area works the best for ergonomics & the dual purpose of being able to use the same cleat for my QRAS.
The line being pulled is coming from the rear so when furling I simply uncleat, let the line flow thru my hand with enough tension to keep the sail rolling up evenly, & then re-cleat.
It would be nice to have some kind of tensioner to make this fool proof but I don't sail enough to bother trying to figure anything better out.


NowhereMan

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I have mine set up with the PXR spin lock cam cleat recommended by Rudy (Halibu77).

That cam cleat looks really, really nice. For now, I'll go with the cam cleat I've got, but I sense an upgrade in my future...
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Great Bass 2

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If you cleat your mainsheet you should always have your hand on the rudder so you can turn the boat into the wind if it starts to heel too much.

This is just CYA: "Cleats for sails are not recommended on the kayaks. Kayaks are a bit tippy due to the sail size, so holding the line is highly recommended."
« Last Edit: March 15, 2015, 06:16:40 PM by Great Bass 2 »
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I use a Harken cam cleat with accessory, black plastic, fairlead. I tie the rope in a knot at the end so it can't pass thru the fairlead when un-cleated.
THIS. 

On my Revo 13 attached just aft of the cup holder, on the slope just inside the gunwale. 

Keep the mainsheet loosely held on the right hand, left hand on the rudder.  If a big gust makes you nervous just pull up to dump the sail and the knot in the end will keep you from loosing the mainsheet behind you. 
Gary - Hobie Revo 13, AI
Never right side up or upside down.  Is this real or am I dreaming.


 

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