Gen 2 Kayak Spectra Downrigger

I broke the Lamiglas Inshore Classic rod I caught my first WSB on and it has been sitting in a closet for 2 yeas. Been trolling at up to 200' with 6-8 pound lead balls and needed to increase the strength and ease of cranking of my Gen 1 Downrigger. Well it came out awesome and you can run 2 rods stacked if needed. Will post construction details if folks are interested.

Great idea on the repurpose of equipment, ingenious

Ghetto Blazer

Wow, that is really awesome set up. How hard is it to crank? I have a Daiwa 47LC which is a line counter reel. I think it 4.8-1 ratio.

Very cool.
I love that handle! I've been thinking about doing the same thing to my Penn reel/downrigger set-up.
What size spectra did you use?
What kind of knot are you using for the snubber? Palomar knot?

Did you file for a patent? 

Reels: I have used Okuma, Cabelas and Daiwa line counter reels over the years and currently am using Daiwa reels because the line counter mechanism has been the most reliable and they are fairly well constructed. The smaller size 17 version of the AccuDepth does not have enough drag capability to run 6-8# balls. On a budget, the Okuma Magda Pro would be a good choice. The specs are shown below. I got my AccuDepth 27 LCB on Amazon for $62 so there isn’t a large cost difference between the 2 reels.
Daiwa AccuDepth® Plus-B Linecounter Reel ADP27LCB   4.2:1 Ratio  24.4in/crank   12#/450 Yards,  15.4#drag  $85 retail
Okuma Magda Pro MA-15DX   5.1:1 Ratio   23"/crank  12#/290 Yards  15# drag  $50 retail

Line: I started out using 40# Power Pro with 2-2.5# weights with no snubber for freshwater and have never lost a weight. The boom arms on my gen 1 downriggers are made from light freshwater rods and have quite a bit of flex which reduces the stress on the line from swells and if you hang the weight. For boat downriggers, 150-200# spectra is the standard and a lot of the kayak guys were using heavy spectra so eventually I increased my spectra to 50-65# which I use on my freshwater downrigger without a snubber. For saltwater, I decided to use 80# Power Pro Slick 8 with a snubber since I am sometimes trolling near the bottom (dragging mud) and have hung the weight several times. The snubber reduces stress on the line and adds abrasion resistance. The down side of heavy spectra is more water resistance and subsequently more blow back. I buy a 150 yard spool of spectra and put enough mono backing to fill the reel.

Mounting Position and Boom Arm Length: If you are using lighter weights and shallow drops, mounting position is not that critical. For 6 pound weights or more, you will want a mounting position which gives you the best cranking leverage. I am right handed and for me, the best position is on the starboard (right) gunnel behind the seat. When sitting side saddle, it gives me the best cranking leverage. Once you have determined the mounting position, the next decision is the boom arm length. Here are several factors to consider, your arm length, rudder or no rudder, outrigger, paddle vs peddle. In general, you want it to be within easy reach. For a paddle kayak with no rudder, I angle the boom arm towards the stern so the line is 2-3” from the hull. This keeps it out of the way of your paddle and maximizes hull stability and tracking. You don’t want the line rubbing against the hull when retrieving the weight so on windy days, turn the boat so wind is coming over the side where your downrigger is mounted.  A rudder can get tangled with the downrigger spectra if the ball is too close to the centerline so you may want to angle it out away from the hull a little if you are using a rudder. With outriggers, rudder and peddle drive, stability and tracking aren’t an issue so you can mount it straight out from the hull and as far as you can reach. Do not cut the boom arm until you have mounted it and checked it for comfort sitting in the kayak.

Roller Tip: A roller tip makes it easier to crank and reduces wear on the spectra. I use an AFTCO standard roller tip which costs about $20. After you cut the boom arm to the length you want, measure the tip. Tip sizes are measured in 64th of an inch and the maximum AFTCO roller tip is ½” or 32/64. AFTCO tips run a little small so add 5/64 – 10/64  to your measured tip. It is better to have it too big than too small.

is there a specific reason that this is preferable to a standalone downrigger?

I guess there is still hope for my sentimental Calstar rod that met it's demise while be packed for Albion Open 2011.   

is there a specific reason that this is preferable to a standalone downrigger?

Here are some advantages over a Scotty laketroller:
1. Built to fit your kayak
2. Hands free controlled drop by backing off the drags
3. Line counter tells you the exact depth
4. Smaller footprint
5. Easier to crank with better ergonomics
6. Less drag and no hum
7. Built in rod holder so only 1 Scotty mount needed

When you are not using it you can take the reel off and use it for fishing.

This is pretty good, Scott. Thanks for taking the time to share it w/us. I hate the ergonomics of the Laketroller and really like the idea of controlling the descent by adjusting the drag.

The real problem is finding a broken rod. I have 99% of the parts but need a rod and roller tip. The tip should be easy to locate but the rod will be a challenge.

Flea Markets. Goodwill. ????  I always see a LOT of older fishing rods at a place near Seaside called 'Last Chance Mercantile'.  Basically it's where "good" stuff bound for the dump ends up for them to try & get a few bucks out of.  Rahter than tossing it, people can drop it off.  I got 2 good windows and a NICE glass panel & fiberglass door for my home office for $20 from there.  The door was BRAND NEW!  If you are ever down that way, it's worth checking out.  Hit & miss on what they have.  Saw a 50gallon drumb full of old rods there one day.

Very clean well thought out design there Scott. I like it! 

Great design. I think this will be my next kayak toy project. Thanks for sharing!