NorCal Kayak Anglers
General => General Talk => Topic started by: G-Whiz on December 16, 2014, 09:12:05 AM
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I know this is EXTREMELY late in posting; had issues with compressing the file enough to post. :smt013
This was shared at the Crabbing Seminar we held a feeewww years ago at CCK-Oakland. :smt009
Sorry Frank & Bunny! I know that I REALLY lagged on getting you a copy!!! :smt010
Glen
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You finally figured out how to use technology enough to post up the tutorial!!!
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Great job Glen! You should sell that at Amazon but copyright it first. Thanks bro!
Rey
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That's a fantastic guide Glen, I was just getting ready to search for information as I just bought a couple of traps.
Thanks for the guide,
Tim
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GOOD JOB SIR!!!
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Very nicely done. The tip about letting the float out first would have saved me a lost trap last season after a tangle/knot took my float down with the pot. :smt013
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Thank you Glen.
We know you are a busy guy. No problem.
Now I'll have to find something else to kid with.
Merry Christmas!
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Thanks for the writeup.
I have crabbed from a boat before but not a kayak. It was somewhat difficult to pull up the rings over the side of the boat fast enough that the crabs would'nt jump out. Some guys install a pivoting arm pulley system to make it easier. How do you pull up the traps/rings from a kayak?
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How do you pull up the traps/rings from a kayak?
With a hoop/ring trap, the crabs shouldn't be able to crawl out of the trap once you start pulling the trap off the bottom; there legs dangle thru the openings of the net and they really don't have any leverage to move across the net. (kinda like when you were a kid playing on the net bridge in the playground). The ones that are exiting when you were pulling the trap up, we're already probably on the edge of the ring or were on top the bridal when you started pulling up the trap; that's why it is important to put a small egg bouy at the base of the bridal to keep it floating.
I also have the Scott Puller, but it was more of a pain then it was worth. First you had to locate a place closest to you to mount it; and once you do and you get the pot up against the pulley, now you have to reach further out to remove it. Which can make interesting in tight swells (except for those AI guys and the ones with training wheels, like me). I now use it as a rear anchor pulley :smt003
Best way for me is to through the bouy over the opposite side of the kayak and pull up hand-over-hand, letting the rope exit the opposite side. Which is great for 2 reason: less chance of tangling and clutter in the kayak, and makes it really easy to re-deploy. But make sure you rebait or add so crab juice to send out a new scent trail.
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Holey cow, nice write up G-whiz covered the process from setting the pot to eating the crab....net to table.
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Thanks for sharing Crab Daddy!!! Nice write-up!!!
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Nicely done! Thanks Glen.
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Great job on the write up Mr. Glen. :smt006 Thanks for taking the time and sharing it with us all.
Jedmo
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Best way for me is to through the bouy over the opposite side of the kayak and pull up hand-over-hand, letting the rope exit the opposite side. Which is great for 2 reason: less chance of tangling and clutter in the kayak, and makes it really easy to re-deploy. But make sure you rebait or add so crab juice to send out a new scent trail.
I pull my pots this way as well.
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Be careful not to let your line tangle up in your rudder or mirage drive too. I also throw the float over the other side but I'm careful to position myself upstream of the drift so the buoy floats away.
Nice write up there Glen. I lurnt some new stuff about the braiding!
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Hi Glen,
Bravo! Very nice tutorial. downloaded and saved.
I've done crabbing a couple of times at HMB. This tutorial addressed all of my struggles. Will bring adjusted rigs and enjoy more of kayak crabbing. Hopefully break my record of one dunge per trip. :smt044
George
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Gee Glen,
What a great write-up! How long have you been a technical writer?
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This is really helpful. Thank you.
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This is really helpful. Thank you.
Feel free to PM if you have any additional questions...
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Looking forward to crabbing again...after last years theft of all my crab gear shortly after the opener. I was so disgusted I didn't crab rest of the season. No overnight soaks this year. The thievery was pretty bad last year...hope this year is better
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Looking forward to crabbing again...after last years theft of all my crab gear shortly after the opener. I was so disgusted I didn't crab rest of the season. No overnight soaks this year. The thievery was pretty bad last year...hope this year is better
Unfortunately, thats a big risk when you drop in shallow, close water; real easy for bandits to increase there inventory.
Also, just to be safe. make sure you weigh your pots and line (rope) down accordingly; and have enough "scope" for the rope too. The swell and current play a bigger part to pot movement than in deeper waters. Dont make you bouys to "floatie"; each time a swell hits, it may lift the pots and increase the chance of it walking... the bouy should only be used to find the pot; and should submerge slightly when swells hit them...
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Awesome write up
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Great write up Glenn, thanks for that -- I'm one of those "Dummies" (a.k.a., Noobs) for whom it is written.
Question 1: I see you braided in your loop. Can this be done w/ leaded line, as in, Is there a strip of lead running like a core in the fiber twists that would interfere w/ the braid?
Q2: Can leaded line be safely flame fused?
Q3: I understand why braided loops are desirable for smoothness, but why braid the loop instead of simply tying an overhand loop knot at the buoy end of the line?
Q4: Comments on forming end loops by means of stainless steel wire whipping that gets covered w/ heat-shrink tubing?
TIA,
Bradley
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Great write up Glenn, thanks for that -- I'm one of those "Dummies" (a.k.a., Noobs) for whom it is written.
Q1: I see you braided in your loop. Can this be done w/ leaded line, as in, Is there a strip of lead running like a core in the fiber twists that would interfere w/ the braid?
R.) Yes, we use loops on the leaded line to create "shots" of rope with different lengths; that why its easy to change out or add line for different depths. Just be cautious not to untwist is we feeding it under the next strand.
Q2: Can leaded line be safely flame fused?
R:) Yes, you can use a lighter or propane torch (on very low) to burn the ends; it's just alot easier with a rope cutter (which is basically a soldiering gun with a different tip.
Q3: I understand why braided loops are desirable for smoothness, but why braid the loop instead of simply tying an overhand loop knot at the buoy end of the line?
R:) Knots are alot larger than braiding and doesnt feed well thru pullers; doesn't really apply on a kayak, but on a friends boat with a puller, it could jam on the wheel. Plus it just looks alot cleaner and uncoils alot smoother when deploying.
Q4: Comments on forming end loops by means of stainless steel wire whipping that gets covered w/ heat-shrink tubing?
R:) It works for a while, but the heat shrink tube gets damaged and then exposes the wire; and the wire really hurts when it sticks you in the hand (past experience).
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Damn, you put a lot of effort and time into this. :thumbsup:
Good thing you were on the clock when writing this up :smt001
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Thanks for the awsome tips Glenn!
I just wish I could use them
up here in the north bay :)
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Damn, you put a lot of effort and time into this. :thumbsup:
Good thing you were on the clock when writing this up :smt001
Your stamp dollars at work, baby!!!! :smt005
Thanks for the awsome tips Glenn!
I just wish I could use them
up here in the north bay :)
Why not? alot of places in the north bay to crab from! Anywhere you find sand or sand/grass, you'll find dungies; as long as its a decent distance from rocks/reefs....
Let me know where your preference for crabbing and I'll check my maps...
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I'm north of the 38th...
Usually go out at Doran, and next year their gonna be big!
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....
R:) It works for a while, but the heat shrink tube gets damaged and then exposes the wire; and the wire really hurts when it sticks you in the hand (past experience).
[/quote]
Hey, thanks!
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I know this is EXTREMELY late in posting; had issues with compressing the file enough to post. :smt013
This was shared at the Crabbing Seminar we held a feeewww years ago at CCK-Oakland. :smt009
Sorry Frank & Bunny! I know that I REALLY lagged on getting you a copy!!! :smt010
Glen
2.5 years later and still helping members. Thanks for the post will be getting ready for next season!
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This is a really great tool! Thanks for sharing it.
:smt004
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Very nice presentation! Thank you so much for sharing! Just in time when I want to try crabbing at Shelter Cove.
Mason
(ducdiva) :smt001
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Very nice presentation! Thank you so much for sharing! Just in time when I want to try crabbing at Shelter Cove.
Mason
(ducdiva) :smt001
Just double check the regs on "escape rings"; didnt have a chance to update the guide with the new updates
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Very nice presentation! Thank you so much for sharing! Just in time when I want to try crabbing at Shelter Cove.
Mason
(ducdiva) :smt001
Just double check the regs on "escape rings"; didnt have a chance to update the guide with the new updates
Crabbing is LAME!!!
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Very nice presentation! Thank you so much for sharing! Just in time when I want to try crabbing at Shelter Cove.
Mason
(ducdiva) :smt001
Just double check the regs on "escape rings"; didnt have a chance to update the guide with the new updates
Crabbing is LAME!!!
:smt005 :smt005
It's exhilarating .
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Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful to me. :smt003
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Glad this is still up - I am brand new and this was great info!
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Haha. I’ve been crabbing (from piers and shore) for over 30 years. After reading that, I STILL learned a few new things!!
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Very nice presentation! Thank you so much for sharing! Just in time when I want to try crabbing at Shelter Cove.
Mason
(ducdiva) :smt001
Just double check the regs on "escape rings"; didnt have a chance to update the guide with the new updates
Crabbing is LAME!!!
:smt005 :smt005
It's exhilarating .
Getting spooled by a fat dungeoness is epic......
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Thanks for the tutorial! Great info!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What are some strategies to handle the extra line. I was dropping my pot in 35 foot of water and had 100 foot of rope. I marked off 50’ish feet for swell and tide but didn’t know what the to do with the extra 50 feet. I ended up coiling the excess and zip tying it 5 feet from the bouy.
I didn’t want to have 100 feet of rope in 35 foot of water.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What are some strategies to handle the extra line. I was dropping my pot in 35 foot of water and had 100 foot of rope. I marked off 50Â’ish feet for swell and tide but didnÂ’t know what the to do with the extra 50 feet. I ended up coiling the excess and zip tying it 5 feet from the bouy.
I didnÂ’t want to have 100 feet of rope in 35 foot of water.
Zip ties or wrap and knotting it can work as long as water is calmer. Waves pushing on buoy can pull line out of a zip tie. Just like a small danileson pot can walk away on each lift of a wave and move your pot. If you do not have lead line you can use weights similar to these. You can run your line through them. I put them 10-15 Ft under buoy to pull line straight down. There are more expensive weights but that seemed to costly at $15 each.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/28b293c4fc49d155e8654fa9352df200.jpg)
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What are some strategies to handle the extra line. I was dropping my pot in 35 foot of water and had 100 foot of rope. I marked off 50Â’ish feet for swell and tide but didnÂ’t know what the to do with the extra 50 feet. I ended up coiling the excess and zip tying it 5 feet from the bouy.
I didnÂ’t want to have 100 feet of rope in 35 foot of water.
Zip ties or wrap and knotting it can work as long as water is calmer. Waves pushing on buoy can pull line out of a zip tie. Just like a small danileson pot can walk away on each lift of a wave and move your pot. If you do not have lead line you can use weights similar to these. You can run your line through them. I put them 10-15 Ft under buoy to pull line straight down. There are more expensive weights but that seemed to costly at $15 each.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171116/28b293c4fc49d155e8654fa9352df200.jpg)
So if your line is leaded, is there still need of tying it down or using leaded weights?
I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt.
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What are some strategies to handle the extra line. I was dropping my pot in 35 foot of water and had 100 foot of rope. I marked off 50’ish feet for swell and tide but didn’t know what the to do with the extra 50 feet. I ended up coiling the excess and zip tying it 5 feet from the bouy.
I didn’t want to have 100 feet of rope in 35 foot of water.
The optimum method would be to divide the line into 2 50' shots; this way you can run a single shot when fishing 40' or less depths and then add the other 50' shot if you run 70'-85' depths. If you really wanna get technical in your depth, 1-50' & 2-25' shoots; then you have more flexibility.
Now if you do not want to cut your line up, "Weaving" the weight to the line is the correct method for installing those weights; easier on the hand (and a puller) when retrieving....
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So if your line is leaded, is there still need of tying it down or using leaded weights?
I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt.
If the line sinks and is not a boat hazard you donÂ’t need to add weights.
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So if your line is leaded, is there still need of tying it down or using leaded weights?
I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt.
If the line sinks and is not a boat hazard you donÂ’t need to add weights.
Got it! Yeah I’m using leaded line and it’s under the water. Besides zip tying it I was trying to see how others lay their pots.
Thanks for the tips!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That was great I was taken away by how many traps where in the Boating Lane in HMB just last week
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I know this is EXTREMELY late in posting; had issues with compressing the file enough to post. :smt013
This was shared at the Crabbing Seminar we held a feeewww years ago at CCK-Oakland. :smt009
Sorry Frank & Bunny! I know that I REALLY lagged on getting you a copy!!! :smt010
Glen
Great tips!
I recently saw a video of a chef preparing a whole crab. He indicated you can humanly kill the crab quickly by piercing the belly of the crab just under the tip of the tail. This supposedly hits the central nervous system, killing the crab. Of course you would then want to immediately put it in the pot.
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Thanks to the OP for the guide. Always a great refresher to read through that stuff. Especially as my collection expands and I can take more crab at once.
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This subject drew my attention because I'm a dummy and went crabbing for the first time, today. My son and I fished Baker Beach in SF and also threw out one of those crab snares one can get from Ebay. We caught at least 10 crabs, most legal size, and all female - no keepers today. So, is it expected the catch will be a very low percentage male or is this unusual? :smt001
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This subject drew my attention because I'm a dummy and went crabbing for the first time, today. My son and I fished Baker Beach in SF and also threw out one of those crab snares one can get from Ebay. We caught at least 10 crabs, most legal size, and all female - no keepers today. So, is it expected the catch will be a very low percentage male or is this unusual? :smt001
The SF Bay is a dungie nursery (thats why you can't crab for them inside the GG Bridge) and alot of females pass through through that area.
Also since its late in the season; alot of the legal size have been picked clean by the Commies; so its slow everywhere this time of year...
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This subject drew my attention because I'm a dummy and went crabbing for the first time, today. My son and I fished Baker Beach in SF and also threw out one of those crab snares one can get from Ebay. We caught at least 10 crabs, most legal size, and all female - no keepers today. So, is it expected the catch will be a very low percentage male or is this unusual? :smt001
As a recreational fisherman, you can keep the females... just saying.
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G whiz and eelkarm, thanks for the reply. Dang commies - the election, now this! Argh. And for some reason I thought females were off limits, not.
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As a recreational fisherman, you can keep the females... just saying.
But I would recommend against it; the meat is bitter and they produce the next generation....
If its the roe you desire, drop one pot close to the rocks and target Reds; the meat in the claws are sweeter and they are over-abundant....
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This tutorial, for those of you who are just getting in to crabbing from a kayak like myself, is pretty helpful. Thanks Yoda.
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What's the furthest south you'd all soak traps with the intent on bringing home enough for a meal and not just by catch?
J. Ice
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What's the furthest south you'd all soak traps with the intent on bringing home enough for a meal and not just by catch?
J. Ice
I've caught some from Pigeon Point. You really need to have the flat sandy bottoms.
Otherwise HMB is your best bet.
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What's the furthest south you'd all soak your traps if you were planning to bring home dinner and not just hope for by catch?
J. Ice
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What's the furthest south you'd all soak your traps if you were planning to bring home dinner and not just hope for by catch?
J. Ice
If you are staying inside the cove, go to the opposite end; past the last Green Bouy....
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That was a great tutorial.
Thanks
Billy BigRig
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Downloaded 5 years after being posted. Thank you for your contribution of knowledge.
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Cool, thanks, bought all the gear... have yet to drop.
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Years after posting and still helpful. Looking forward to trying crabbing out, thanks!
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A must read!
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Oh nice, thanks for bumping the thread michael1one otherwise I would have missed this one. Definitely a lot of useful information here which I've been looking in way too many places for... thanks
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Glad it helped.... maybe one of these days, i will update it... :smt003
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thanks for sharing! :smt006
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Some of that would’ve helped me today . It’s all educational for me . Thank you
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Excellent guide! Many thanks.
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I have a crabbing question for you guys. I too read this crabbing guide (thank you, author!) and if I recall correctly, it advocates using the plastic, screw-top bait jars instead of a bait cage or a mesh bag. I get how a plastic bait jar works with traps. The crab smells the bait, crawls into the trap and can't get out.
But with hoops, the crab crawls into the hoop, tries to get a meal from the bait jar for 5 minutes, then gives up because, unlike a bait cage or mesh bag, the holes on a bait jar are too small for the crab to do anything but smell the bait. And the hoops don't prevent the crab from crawling out.
If the crabs are sitting there for 20, 30 minutes eating what it can pull out of a bait cage, you are more likely to catch them when you finally pull your hoops, or so the theory goes.
Am I giving crabs too much credit for intelligence?
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I ALWAYS used jars and either cage or bag. Chopped squid and oily small baits go in the jars. On my kayak I take carcass hunks, chopped chicken chunks and bigger herring or sardines and put them in the bag. The jar gets placed Inside the bag to simplify things and a single brass clasp hoops the whole rig onto the center of my hoops and cones. I prep all the baits in advance and then just clip them in on the drop.
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Great post. Thanks for the PDF. Impressive!
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Watching too many seasons of Deadliest catch, they early on would say that they always have bait that attracts the crabs, and bait for them to sit and eat/fight over. I think the latter is the more essential, having something that makes them stick to the bait and try and get it, but adding scent will draw them in from farther away. So I'm doing both these days, and seems to be working well for me.
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Was just thinking about going crabbing for Stone crab. It’ll definitely come in handy. Thanks.