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Topic: Marine goop and sonar/fishfinder transponders  (Read 7794 times)

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BigRed

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Just FYI, I have recently discovered the lack of thermal stability in Marine Goop.  When the temperature goes up, the stuff gets increasingly more flexible.

So, let's just say, if you use a big bead of it to affix your transponder inside the hull of your kayak...  and you store your kayak upside down even on hot days...   and you transport your kayak inverted during the day time with the sun beating down...  

You just might find that your transponder has a big bubble between it and the hull and alternately reads "4 feet" or "298 feet" instead of the actual water depth.  You might also spend several months trying to figure out what's wrong and even send your fishfinder in for service.

Luckily, once you do discover the issue, all you need to do to remove the marine goop and clean off your (expensive!) transponder is...  you guessed it...  use HEAT.  A nice hairdryer and you'll be able to peel the dried marine goop off like rubber cement.

All this is purely hypothetical, of course.
Joel M
Big Red Tandem
OK Malibu II XL


Bill

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I have been having problems with goop as well. My marine goop lasted about 8 months, not to bad. In a pinch I used some shoe goop this time. Worst idea ever, stick with marine goop if you go with a type of goop.

There has to be a better way to mount the transducer. I have seen the vasilene in a pipe method, I might try that next. Instead of vasilene I might just fill it up with water before I launch.


SBD

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I have not had any trouble with goop so far.  If you get it right, it seems pretty bulletproof.  The only issue I ever had was using it on a really hot day, which the package says is a bad idea...it is!


BigRed

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Ah!  Read the package!   How novel!

I'm going to very seriously consider reading the package next time.
Joel M
Big Red Tandem
OK Malibu II XL


promethean_spark

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I used silicone caulk and it reads fine and has stayed on for nearly a year now.  IMO, you need a bit of flexibility because the hull is flexible while the transducer is not.  If the hull flexes (say when you heave it on top of your car or hit a rock) the transducer pops off if the adhesive can't absorb the difference between the transducer and the hull.

Marine epoxy is the worst because it's hard, but it did make the bottom of the transducer perfectly fit the curve of the hull for when I used silicone..
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


KayakFishing

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Just make sure to scuff up the plastic where you will be applying the silicon or marine goop first. This is an important step. What I like to use is black weatherstripping silicon. It dries harder than regular silicon, but still stays flexible while having slightly stronger adhesive properties.


FishFinder

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It seems just about everything else has been covered on this site so maybe someone had the same problem I'm facing.  I am trying to mount a transducer inside my Prowler which is made of polyethelene.  I passed on the Goop because the package says not recomended for polyethelene.  I spot tested West Marine Silicone, Devcon 2-ton Epoxy (2 part) and 3M 5200.  Forget the silicone, the epoxy might be OK if the hull doesn't flex too much because flexing the sample surface caused it to separate and the 5200 stuck to everything else in the world except my hull.

I contacted OK and they promptly replied that about the only thing that sticks to polyethelene is... polyethelene.

This is my first post, really enjoy this site and look forward to it everyday!

Thanks - Pete
aka petemaranda


Bill

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The marine goop will decay over time but it will generally hold for 8-12 months then you will need to redo it.

I am planning on a external mounting option I will post detailed instructions if it works.


ex-kayaker

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I've been thinking of trying out one of these mounted to my crate.


http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jhtml?id=0000844010095a&navAction=push&navCount=2&indexId=cat21402&podId=0000844&catalogCode=IF&parentId=cat21402&parentType=index&rid=&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fcatalog%2Fitem-link.jhtml_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276&hasJS=true


I was told the reason goop is not recomended for polyethelene is because its not guaranteed to hold for very long.  Polyethelene is too greasy of a plastic, hence some problems with the ducer popping off.
..........agarcia is just an ex-kayaker


promethean_spark

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You really need to scrape up the surface.  Very coarse sandpaper does a good job.  The adhesive will grip those scratches alright.  I marked the area with a permanant marker for my first glueing, when it popped off the permanent marker was on the adhesive/transducer but not the hull.  Even sharpie didn't stick!
The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down
Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee
Superior, they said, never gives up her dead
When the gales of November come early.


mooch

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John, Mike and I have the same transducer set-ups = which is marine gooped inside the hull of the Prowler 15. (Stuart gave me tip about scratching the bottom hull with a fork before applying the goop for better traction) We've had the set-up for a while now and have not had any problems with our transducers falling out.

For me at least - I try not to store the yak completely under direct sun light AND I always remove the front hatch (leave it open to air out) after every trip. I don't know if this would help - but it seems to work fine for me.


jeffw

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Quote from: Bill


There has to be a better way to mount the transducer. I have seen the vasilene in a pipe method, I might try that next. Instead of vasilene I might just fill it up with water before I launch.


Water works great. I do just that with a pvc cup that I cut from a piece of 6" pipe. I sanded approx. a 1.5" section pvc so it would fit the contour on the inside of hull up near the front hatch opening. It was long ago but I believe I sealed it to the inner hull with a heap of bathroom/shower caulking.

I took this approach because I wanted to be able to remove the transducer to slide rods and junk inside for storage etc. The last thing I do before launching is to rest the transducer in the "cup" and then pour in a bit of water. Ive found that it only really needs a thin film and to "see" clearly through the hull.  On several occasions I have removed the transducer from the cup and placed it in the water to see if it captures a different depth, more/less bait, different structure image etc. As long as there is a bit of water in the "cup" there is no compromise. In the event that you forget a bottle of water...don't fill the cup with beer. Just as the bubbles in goop cloud the reading so does the carbonation in beer. For the record I have a Garmin 240 Blue.


 

anything