Roof Top Question

I'm picking up my P15 tomorrow and just installed my Thule rack on my Chevy Tahoe.
My crossbars are 4' - 5" apart.

Should I center the kayak on the supports or should I position the kayak more forward so it does not stick out as far on the rear?

 

I would center it to not stress out the roof mounts. If you are worried about the back sticking out just hang a flag and you are good to go.

And don't forget to put it upside down with the stern in the front.

I've noticed recently the recommendations to load upside down...I have the Yakima "saddles" I've always loaded them upright as this seems to be the most logical position with this system.  It also makes it easier to load stuff (rods, pfd's, etc.) into the yaks as I often travel with them (X Factor and Pro Explorer) as well as wife, 2 kids, big dog and WAY too many pillows etc.!    What's the advantage of updside down?

I've never had saddles, just a pool noodle over the bar to compress a bit at the contact points.  Upside down the kayak will contact the bars at the kayaks gunnels making for a wide solid base.  Right side up, with the hull bottom being round it won't sit properly on a bar, the contact area will ve very narrow and you'll have to crank it down pretty good possibly causing warpage to the hull where the bar runs accross it.  The saddles eliminate a need for flipping upside down.

I have seen many kayaks with flat spots from sitting in too small saddles on car tops and carts,especially dark colors in the summer sun. I carry mine right side up in a Hullavator because thats the way they fit best (not hitting the truck). If I didn't have all the pad eyes,etc. sticking up in the way and could reach the top I would carry upside down.

Also with racking upside down the hull creates a downward force going down the road which helps keep the kayaks on the vehicle and takes the weight stresses back down to the rack and vehicle. Mounted the other way going down the road the hulls will actually provide some lift which moves the weight stresses from the rack and vehicle back to your tie down straps: And that results in a whole lot of trust in your straps. I think if tested you would also find a better (if only slight) gas milage with the kayaks tied down instead of up.

Jeff

... with the stern in the front.

Just curious as to why?

Thanks,

Michael

Carrying the kayak upside down is starting to make sense, especially considering the heat issue. I'll be concerned when the outside temp hits 105 going down hwy 5.

I installed one set of saddles and have one set still in the boxes. I think I may return them and transport my wife's yak upside down. Hers will not have fishing stuff that will get in the way. I'm going to keep the one set because I have a plan to load my kayak solo. Its a high lift on top a Tahoe.

Fishshim, I appreciate your comments. Has anyone else seen permanent dimples caused from saddles?

What should I wrap the Thule crossbar with for the second yak? A 4" noodle?

Thanks for all your advice.

 

 The dimples will usually come out after a while. Sometimes they need to be heated and persuaded back. Just don't crank the straps down too tight and never use the ratchet type strap. If you use a bow rope they don't have to be super tight.
 I had saddles to cartop solo on my full size 4wd truck. I did have a wet boat relaunch itself at the Mendo boat ramp when I was climbing onto the tailgate to push it the final few feet. Just missed my noggin on the way back into the water!

The Hully rollers are almost guaranteed to make a dent in a kayak. The molded saddles, like Makos, don't seem to do this.

Regarding how far to place it forward or back, balance is the most important thing. As a rule of thumb, the seat area should be just forward of the rear crossbar.  If you're not sure about balance, tip the rear up and then the front. The weight should feel about the same if it is balanced.

I have transported kayaks thousands of miles in the upright position. Never had a problem with wobble or slippage.

To load the boat yourself, get a piece of carpet with a rubber backing. You can set the bow in the rear saddle and just slide the boat up onto the car. The carpet will prevent scratches in the car's paint.

Carrying the kayak upside down is starting to make sense, especially considering the heat issue. I'll be concerned when the outside temp hits 105 going down hwy 5.

I installed one set of saddles and have one set still in the boxes. I think I may return them and transport my wife's yak upside down. Hers will not have fishing stuff that will get in the way. I'm going to keep the one set because I have a plan to load my kayak solo. Its a high lift on top a Tahoe.

Fishshim, I appreciate your comments. Has anyone else seen permanent dimples caused from saddles?

What should I wrap the Thule crossbar with for the second yak? A 4" noodle?

Thanks for all your advice.

 

The Mako saddles that have the rubber strip in the middle of them will wreck the bottom of a fiberglass boat. I use the Yakima Land Shark saddles. I also use a ratchet tie down on the bars. Just do not crank them too tight or they will dent the kayak. It seems to work itself out if it does happen.

Since I don't have any fiberglass boats, I can't comment on that. I have had very good experience with the Makos on plastic boats, though. Never any damage. The main thing that dents my boats is when I get lazy and leave them on the ground!

The Mako saddles that have the rubber strip in the middle of them will wreck the bottom of a fiberglass boat. I use the Yakima Land Shark saddles. I also use a ratchet tie down on the bars. Just do not crank them too tight or they will dent the kayak. It seems to work itself out if it does happen.

And don't forget to put it upside down with the stern in the front.

I really don't think it matters too much, but upside down and bow forward seem to be most aerodynamic to me.

I've experimented with crossbar spacing and 40" between the two bars seems to securely support every kayak I've transported.... and I've transported lots of different makes.

On my p15 the widest area and best balance point was in the seat and footwell areas.  Strapping in that area caused more of the bow section to hang over.  Upside down and bow up front creates a downward force where the V splits the wind and cause more of the yak hung over the front it acted like a lever.  Plus with all that yak upfront my steering was affected anytime a crosswind would hit. This has been my experience with the p15 on both my jetta and an acura don't know what the effetcs are on other vehicles.