Tips for Targeting Sturgeon from a Kayak

(I thought I'd pull this over from the kayak4fish.com board...)

With the winter rains and big minus tides around the corner, I thought give some pointers on how to rig up and find success targeting sturgeon from a kayak in the San Francisco Bay.  I?ll comment on techniques that I've found to work but, as with everything, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Safety:

It should probably go without saying that tangling with a large sturgeon from a kayak in heavy current and cold water can be dangerous.   Aside from those safety precautions called out elsewhere in this article, I'll offer the following basic recommendations.  
- Wear a PFD at all times.  
- Tie all of your lanyards off to one side of your kayak to give you a clear route off the yak in case you do indeed tip over.  
- Keep a knife within easy reach on your person in case things go sour.
- A GPS and a VHF marine radio are nice in the event of fog or trouble.  
- Dress warm and in such a fashion that you can stay as dry as possible... it gets cold sitting there waiting for Mr. Dino to bite.  I recommend a farmer john wet suit for safety in the event that you dump your yak.
- Above all else, be prepared and take the time to thoroughly consider and prepare for all of the possible scenarios you might face in this type of fishing.

Anchor:

The photo below shows my anchor rig that has proven to work in San Pablo Bay but may not be big enough for deeper water.  I recommend a folding style anchor with four-prongs and at least 40 feet of anchor rope.  For a small anchor like I have, you may need to add weight to it by attaching lead to the anchor itself or using a sort length of chain before attaching your rope.  



You will need to have a hook of some type that will allow you to easily release your anchor with one hand if you hook up to a big ?un.  Crab net floats work well to keep your line afloat until you return for it.  

If you have a GPS, it comes in very handy to mark your fishing spot so you can more easily find your anchor upon return.   You?d be surprised how difficult it can be to spot an anchor float if there is a little chop on the water.  

Rod / Reel:

I recommend a live bait style rod in the 25# range made of either E-Glass or Glass/Graphite composite.  As for rod length, my preference is 7-feet.  You could go shorter or longer depending on your preferences but for me, a 7-foot rod is comfortable and allows me to get the tip around the end of my kayak if necessary.  I use a Shimano TR200 reel coupled with 25# P-Line CXX-Tra Strong monofilament line.  Momoi is another excellent brand of monofilament.  Spectra would work well too if that is what you prefer.  You don't need a lot of line capacity but you do need a good drag.  Mr. Sturgeon will tow you around if necessary, and most of the kayakable sturgeon haunts are quite shallow? we?re talking less than 15 feet in most spots.  

Attributes of a good sturgeon rod include:
? Powerful Butt section.
? Sensitive Tip section.  Some prefer a soft tip so they can see any action that may be occuring on the bait.  I personally prefer a little stiffer tip that is fairly light and sensitive so I can feel EVERTHING that is happening down there.  For me? feel is more important.
? Fairly lightweight... you'll be holding it in your hand for long hours.  This is where glass/graphite composite blanks such as Calstar Graphiters and Seeker Black Steels have the advantage.  Lighter weight and still very durable and powerful.
? I recommend a dense grip material such as high durometer EVA foam or cork.  A dense grip material is more effective at transmitting vibration to your hand and will enable you to detect more strikes (which can feel like almost nothing sometimes).  A squishy Hypalon grip does not transmit vibration very well.

There are many good sturgeon rods on the market from makers including Seeker, Calstar, G.Loomis, Lamiglas, and others.  For starters, I'd recommend looking at a Seeker or Calstar 270 or 870 in fiberglass.  Seeker also make the 270 and 870 in their Black Steel composite series which is lighter in weight and still very durable.  A Calstar Graphiter 700 XL, 700 L, or 800 L in Graphite /Glass composite would be excellent choices as well.  

If you build your own rods or are using a custom builder, I'd recommend a spiral guide placement (aka. Acid Wrap) for maximum sensitivity and fish fighting power.  

Terminal Tackle:

See the diagram below for a typical sturgeon rig.  This consists of a typical sliding singer rig.  For a leader I recommend at least 40# monofilament.  Spectra type line in 50 - 80# is preferred by some because it is more difficult for a sturgeon to detect on the bite.  I like monofilament for abrasion resistance? I usually use 40# Maxima.  I don?t like wire leaders? just a personal preference but many sturgeon anglers use them successfully as well.  Some anglers theorize that a lighter leader will lead to more strikes since it is more difficult to detect by the fish? this may be where spectra type leader materials play in.



Leader length should not be any more than about 16 to 22 inches.  The longer the leader, the higher off the bottom your bait will run.  You want to keep your bait ON THE BOTTOM.  

I use dual outward facing 6/0 Octopus hooks with two or three beads between them to keep the hooks separated on a loop at the end of my leader (not sure what the knot is called).  Buy good hooks... they should be sticky sharp... it's worth the money to buy good hooks such as Gamagatsu, Owner, or Mustad.  I generally don?t use the khale style hooks because I like the ultra-sharp Japanese hooks available in the Octopus style.

Be prepared to chuck as much as 8 ounces of lead during heavy currents... pyramid sinkers work the best in heavy current.  Also, bring some 3/8 to ? oz rubber core weights to add near the end of the leader to help keep your bait ON THE BOTTOM during times of heavy current.

Bait:

In San Pablo Bay... live ghost shrimp and grass shrimp produce equally well.  I prefer Ghost shrimp because they stay on the hook a little better and you can tie them on the hook with thread if necessary.  With ghost shrimp I recommend one shrimp per hook? maybe two if they are small shrimp.  With grass shrimp you can load as many as fit on the hook.

Freshness is important.  Sturgeon (like sharks) can detect the weak electrical signals given off by living organisms.  I believe that live fresh bait maximizes your chances of Mr. Dino finding that delicious bait offering.  
Lamprey eel is king in the delta and has the side benefit of deterring those pesky mitten crabs.  During a herring spawn, herring fillets are the ticket.  

Detecting the Bite:

I?m positive that most people miss sturgeon because they didn?t feel them hit or weren?t paying attention or reacted too slowly.  I always hold my rod in my hand and concentrate on feeling and watching the rod tip.  A sturgeon bite may vary considerably? when in doubt? take a swing.  The classic bite is a slow pump, pump, pump of the rod tip but in actuality most sturgeon I?ve caught did not bite that way.  Sometimes it?s a tick,tick like a bullhead.  On several occasions I?ve set the hook because it felt like something brushed up against my line and had a dino on the other end.  Then there is the single slam which is common as well.  In any event, don?t wait for that second bite? swing hard on any suspected bite and don?t hesitate.  Check your bait often as well because all that hook-setting will cause your bait to go bye-bye a little faster too.

Tides:

Sturgeon seem to bite best during the last hour or so of a big outgoing tide and the first hour or so of the incoming.  That's not to say they won't bite any other time, but it seems that the muddier and more stirred up the water is, the better your chances of success.  Sturgeon move with the current.  As the tide goes out, the sturgeon move down from the shallows.  You'll find yourself fishing in 3 to 5 feet of water sometimes... don't worry... they're in there.

Plan your trip ahead of time so that you don't wind up paddling into the current to get back home or find yourself stranded by a mud flat where when you try to land on the beach.

From China Camp, I usually plan to head out during the last part of the incoming tide and paddle north to my chosen fishing spot... then I can come back during the end of the outgoing tide so I will not have to fight the current.  

Locations:

I mostly fish the flats north of China Camp... anywhere from China Camp proper to the duck blinds to Shell Bank... which is between the duck blinds and the Pumphouse.  You can launch at the beach at China Camp but it will be a mud flat on a minus tide? get out before it goes minus or you?ll be in for a mud fest.  Buck?s landing just north of China Camp offers another suitable launch site with a channel going into the bay so you don?t have to worry about being stranded in a minus tide.

If you have a fishfinder, any dips, channels, or changes in bottom type (shell bank vs. mud bottom) are good things to key on.  Also, the fast-moving side of rip lines can be a good bet.  Obviously, if you are marking fish? that?s something to key on as well.  If you see jumpers? fish there.  Sturgeon often travel in groups so if the boat ahead of you is hooking up? you might be in for some action as they work their way down current.

Etiquette:

Sturgeon can spook easily, so it?s best to fish where everyone else isn?t.  As Keith Fraser of the Loch Lomond Bait Shop says, ?Find where all the boats are fishing and then fish elsewhere?.  

Be aware of boaters fishing nearby and downstream of you.  Never paddle or throw your anchor directly upstream of another anchored boat.    Always be gentle with your anchor? don?t make a big commotion.  Leave some distance between yourself and the nearest boat downstream of you.  Be mindful that when you hook up and throw your anchor, you may drift a considerable distance downstream.  Try to leave a clear path for such an event.  It's a big Bay... leave some space and minimize the noise and commotion.

Playing and Landing a Sturgeon:

This is where safety becomes very important.  Particularly if you hook into a 55 inch or larger fish, you?ll need to play the fish until he is absolutely, beyond a shadow of a doubt, flat out exhausted.  You may think the fish is exhausted after you pull him up to your yak the first time or two but do not be fooled.  Give him a firm poke in the nose with your club and you?ll find out very quickly if he has any pep left in him.  

Once you are certain the fish is completely spent, then you?ll need to land it.  For fish up to about 50 inches or so you should be able to grab the fish by the gill plate or use the heavy leader to slide the fish up onto the kayak.  You can also use a very large net to land such moderate sized sturgeon.   Much bigger than 50 inches or so and you will likely need a snare or noose to land the fish properly and minimize the risk of capsizing.  Sturgeon are a bit odd in that they don?t float.  If you have a large sturgeon, it?s likely that you?ll only get the head to the surface and have a heck of a time accessing the fish?s tail.

I?d suggest wearing a glove on your ?landing? hand so that you can maneuver the fish without being cut by the sharp scutes on their back and sides.

The following are plans for making a very good and inexpensive sturgeon snare.  A simple noose made of coated aircraft cable will suffice as well.  I?d steer clear of using rope as a noose because those ultra-sharp hooks tend to find their way into rope very easily, causing considerable difficulty and potential danger in getting the rope around the fish?s head and trying to free it from the hooks one-handed (speaking from experience here).  



With a noose or snare, you?ll feed it over your rod and down the line and around the head of the fish.  Pull tight and in one slow and smooth motion, slide the fish?s head up onto your kayak, kicking the tail up to the bow of the boat.  It?s important to not pull too hard when pulling a fish up onto your kayak.  The shift in weight as the fish slides up onto the deck can cause you to tip over backwards? not what you want to happen.  I?ll stress again? pull the fish up in a slow and smooth motion.  Once you?ve determined legality, waste no time or energy in subduing the fish with your club.  

Never land a fish that you intend to release.  If you aren?t going to keep the fish? let it go while it is still in the water.  Certainly never use a snare on a sturgeon that you intend to release.  Snares can cause substantial internal damage, resulting in not-so-good prospects that the fish will survive.  

Measuring:

Measuring a sturgeon accurately on a kayak can be difficult.  Because they don?t float, you?ll have a difficult time measuring a medium to large sturgeon while it is in the water unless you have help.  I have hash marks on my kayak to measure fish and I usually make them ?generous? measurements so that I know if it?s at the line, it?s legal.  This is definitely where teamwork can be helpful.

After the catch:

For the best meat quality, it is very important to bleed any sturgeon that you catch.  This should be done immediately after the fish has been subdued with your club.  Make several deep cuts in the gills and even removing a few gill rakes if necessary.  I usually tow the fish around for a while to assist in the bleed-out process.  If not bled well, blood will pool and settle in the meat and make for a gamey flavor.  If bled well, almost all of the meat will be white in color and mild in flavor.  You'll know if the fish has been bled well if the fish appears really white with not much red flush in the skin.[/img]

Go Get 'em


67-inch sturgon caught on 1/25/2003 from San Pablo Bay.  Estimated 80 - 90 lbs.

just an FYI...for those of you who have not met Erik in person (yet)...this guy is well over 6 feet tall......so you know that the sturgeon he's holding is quite big by the average-guy standards  

I am re-re-re-reading this...I can't wait!  Thanks.

Me too
I can't wait to try Erik's expert tips.

Erik,
I just read this posting dated back in 2004. I am in the Union City and am only a few miles from the Dunbarton Bridge. Recently fished there with Duane and we witnessed some large sturgeon rolling and actually jumping entirely out of the water. I have a few question  about sturgueon fishing this area.   

1. Have you fish this area? and if so were you successful there?
 2. Is there a time when the Leopards are less plentiful?  Or is this just part of sturgeon fishing.
3. How often do you go it alone or do you? It is very tempting to just go out during these major tides but haven't.
4. I don't see any wire to the leader. Why?
5.Does the Mono give a better feel?

Frankfishing

Just wanted to confirm on the regs =

Sturgeon has to be over 46 inches but no longer than 72 inches....can I get an "Amen" ?

I have a question regarding the DIY snare - where are you finding the line tightener ?


Scott

Frankfishing...  never fished that area.  Leopards are less plentiful throughout the bay as the rains reduce the salinity of the water.  The more rain, the less leopards and rays, etc.  I fished alone up until a couple years ago, but it all depends on ones comfort level.  I don't like wire on the leader... I think the wrong wire can send off electrical current that can turn off sturgeon.  I also don't trust crimps.  I use 80# mono for the leader and about 10 yards of 65# spectra above the leader as a top shot, with 30# spectra main line.  The heavy line is to resist abrasion when a fish wraps up in the leader.  Spectra line gives a better feel.

Mooch... Amen brother...

Scott... I believe you can find them at Home Depot with the clothesline stuff.

Frank... check the article links from the home page of the website.  This information is available in article format and I've done minor updates over the years to keep the info current.

EK

Ek,
What type of knot on the loop for the end of the leader? or suggestions!

Double Sturgeon

Thanks for the post.  This is great info.  I am determined to get a sturgeon this season from kayak or shore.  I've got several lamprey eels and salmon roe skeins in my freezer (hidden from the view of my wife) . 

I've got a sturgeon snare similar to the one you described, but what bothers me is that it requires two hands to operate.  A one-handed snare would be ideal for use from the kayak.  I saw someone with just such a snare on the Napa river but couldn't find out where it was purchased.  It was about 2.5-3 ft long and the handle end was wrapped in EVA foam for a sure grip.  The business end consisted of a thick flexible material (rubber hose?) from which protruded the cable.  The end of the cable had a metal ring which slid up the shaft of the snare and was held in place by an alligator clip attached to the shaft of the snare.  When the ring was in the clip the snare was "loaded" (with tension provided by the rubber hose) and ready to be slipped over head or tail of the fish.  By pressing the alligator clip with one hand, the snare was released and could be cinched up. 

Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Does anyone ever experience any trouble landing sturgeon with a two-handed snare?

Ed

Sebastes... I can't really picture what you are describing, but I can tell you that it isn't really that big of a deal to use one of these snares from the kayak.  You can hold the tag end along with your rod in one hand, and push the snare body toward the fish to cinch it up.  I find a long snare much easier to use than a short snare, and my current snare is 46 inches long and works very well.

Good luck... Erik

Sounds like a tailsnare.

Thanks everyone for the great tips. One question, do you always run the anchor off the stern or off the bow also.

Thanks Scott

Thanks everyone for the great tips. One question, do you always run the anchor off the stern or off the bow also.

Thanks Scott

IMO: it depends on the swell conditions - when the water is rough / choppy, I usually slide my anchor towards bow (so I can see 'em comin) On calm water, I slide the anchor to the Stern.