Calstar Rods for Kayak Fishing

For saltwater fishing, I have used Calstar rods for over 25 years, primarily in SCAL, but also kayak fishing in NCAL. I use Calstar rods for 3 reasons - #1 they are very tough, reasonably priced rods which have a proven track record against big pelagic species; #2 they are one of the standards on long range trips; #3 they are made in SCAL by guys who really understand fishing. I have also built Seeker and Lamiglas rods for saltwater fishing and they are also very good but on average slightly more expensive. I build my own rods primarily to save some costs and for the enjoyment. Like rolling your own flies or pouring plastics, it also adds some additional satisfaction to the kill. The average production Grafighter runs $210-240, where I can build the same rod with better components and construction for $175-210. I purchased the rod blanks and materials from the Rod Rack in Hayward (rodrack.net). The owner Steve is a great guy and really helpful if you are building your first rod. He also carries all of the reels that you may dream about as well as an awesome selection of jigs. Before I go any further, I will have to say that I am an amateur rod builder, and don’t have half the skills of a pro like Erik Kunz. I will also say that if you are only fishing in NCAL and not for pelagics like yellowtail and tuna, your entry level $50-75 rod/reel combo from Big 5 or Walmart will work just fine in most situations. If you do fish for pelagics, I would invest in the best rod and reel which you can afford. Like the saying goes, you don’t want to bring a knife to a gun fight.

I usually kayak fish with 2 or 3 rods onboard so I wanted to build 3 Calstar rods which would cover the majority of kayak fishing tactics/species which we use in NCAL and SCAL. Here were my general considerations…

Rod Length – most kayak anglers seem to use rods in the 6’6” – 8’6” range. I prefer 7’ rods for surf launches since I line my rods on the water after I have cleared the surf zone and break them down before landing. 7’ rods also cast with more accuracy and provide better leverage compared to longer rods. I like 7’6” rods for casting distance and clearing the bow easier. Most commercial kayak rods are 7’6” such as the Okuma and Lamiglas kayak rods.

Rod Action – for casting, faster action rods are preferred by many. For vertical jigging with spectra main line, some also prefer a faster action rod for fast hook sets where others prefer a moderate action rod which is more forgiving and lessens the risk of pulling the hook. Kayak fishing can put more strain on the rod tip while landing big fish because “high sticking” is more common. A strong flexible tip is something to consider. Calstar make 2 series of rods to consider, the West Coast Series (all E glass) and the Grafighter Offshore Series (graphite butt transitioning to an E glass tip). Most of the rods in these series which are appropriate for kayak fishing are designed as fast action live bait rods with fast tapers and powerful butt sections. The West Coast Series have a slightly softer action and are heavier than the Grafighters. The Grafighters also come in a moderate action rod (GFGX, GFX) designed for other applications such as East Coast fishing tactics. The Grafighter Tuna Series is probably too heavy and stiff for kayak fishing and are primarily designed as stand up or trolling rods. Most saltwater kayak fishing is done with 10-30# test line with the exception of kelp cutter rigs and other species specific rigging.

Components – I prefer cork grips (1 1/8” OD) and graphite trigger style reel seats for the lighter rods and aluminum reel seats for the heavier rods. I use a rear grip 12-14” long to place the reel in a comfortable position for casting and fighting. I use fore grips 5-10” depending on rod and style of fishing. I usually fight fish with the rod butt between my elbow and chest and against the seat back for leverage. Lighter line/drag and 2 speed reels lessen the need to fight fish with both hands on the fore grip. For trolling rods, I used a lightweight graphite gimbal to match the flush mount rod holder on the Prowlers. The gimbal keeps the rod oriented correctly when trolling. I use Fuji Silicon Nitride II Guides (BHNNG) on my 30# rods and Fuji Alconite Guides (BMNAG) on my 20# rods. I use the Fuji Silicon Carbide (MNST) top for all 20-30# rods. For leash attachment, I attach a nylon deck loop to the rear grip and blank with stainless steel screws and epoxy. The standard Velcro leash attachment I find too bulky and gets in the way when fishing. The Okuma kayak rods have a space in the rear grip for the Velcro attachment which is another option.

Rig #1 – 7’ Fast Action 20# Casting Rod: Calstar Grafighter GF700XLH (15-25# test) + Penn 975 (20# Fluoro 100yd topshot, 30# Spectra backing). This is a really sweet combo recommended by EK for sturgeon fishing. I don’t fish for sturgeon but plan to use it for light rock fishing, bay fishing for hali’s and stripers and around the SCAL kelp beds for calicos, YT and WSB. It casts live bait and small to medium swim baits really well and is really light in the hand with a sensitive tip. If I could only have one of the 3 rigs, this would be it. Calstar alternatives include 196-7, 210, 270-7, GF 700XL, GF 700L

Rig #2 – 7’ Moderate Action 30# Jigging Rod: Calstar GFX 700ML (20-40# test) + Avet SX 6/4 (30# Fluoro 2 yard leader, 50# Spectra backing) I built this rig last year for the Islander trip. It is designed for yo yo jig fishing and working butterfly jigs on spectra main line. I use this rig mainly for working 4-6 oz jigs and swim baits for ling cod and verm’s. The moderate action takes a little getting used to when pulling on big pelagics, but it can get the job done when combined with a 2 speed reel. It fishes kind of like a Trevala but a little heavier in the hand and stiffer. Calstar alternatives include 270H, 870, GFX 700M, GFX 800ML, GF 700ML, GF 700L

Rig #3 – 7’6” Fast Action 30# Casting and Trolling Rod: Calstar GF 750ML (15-40# test) + Avet MXL 6/4 (30# Mono 100 yard topshot, 50# Spectra backing) This is my big game rig designed to take on home guard yellowtail and tuna up to 50 pounds. In NCAL, it would be a good salmon trolling or heavy bottom fishing/shark rig. I cut 6 inches off the butt of a GF800ML to produce a 7’6” rod. I chose this length primarily for jig and live bait tossing although the extra length would be handy in a battle with a fast moving pelagic. It casts light surface iron really well and has a lot of backbone for getting big tuna to the gaff when combined with a 2 speed reel. I also designed it to be a trolling rod for live bait or plugs. The downside is that it is a heavy rig and not something you want to be holding all day as in sturgeon fishing but it is a great boat rod if you are on a mothership trip. Calstar alternatives include 270H, 870, GF 700M, GF 700ML

On a rainy, windy weekend, build yourself a rod!!!
Scott

very nice work scott, when do you hope to be fishing these rods again this year?

John -

The first 2 rigs I use for rockfish and hope to fish the opener if weather permits and there are any places left to launch from.  The 3rd rig I will use at the east cape in June and maybe the Islander in October. I also fish La Jolla periodically because my son goes to school at UCSD.

Scott

Nice article Scott...  I agree that Calstars are a premium blank and can't be beat in terms of quality.

The GF700XLH is a great blank for all-around SF Bay area fishing.

A less expensive alternative to that blank for the budget minded would be the Pac Bay XG70L... which has very similar action and construction and costs about half as much.  I've actually had great experience with this blank and I have to say that I have a hard time finding any issues with the quality... I've really put it to the test with some awfully big sturgeon over the years.

I like your leash solution... never considered attaching a pad eye to the blank like that.  I'm still searching for the perfect solution for non-trigger reel seats.  For trigger reel seats, it's hard to bet drilling a hole in the trigger for leash attachment.

Personally I don't like using a leash at all and have been going more toward extended foregrips for some engineered floatation.  There's no free lunch and there are pros and cons to any approach.

I like cork too, but for my heavier stuff, my preference has shifted to EVA foam covered with X-flocked shrink tubing.  This makes for a very durable and firm grip and is more economical than cork. 

Good stuff... it's always nice to see other rod-builders preferences for design. 

EK

Nice article Scott...  I agree that Calstars are a premium blank and can't be beat in terms of quality.

The GF700XLH is a great blank for all-around SF Bay area fishing.

A less expensive alternative to that blank for the budget minded would be the Pac Bay XG70L... which has very similar action and construction and costs about half as much.  I've actually had great experience with this blank and I have to say that I have a hard time finding any issues with the quality... I've really put it to the test with some awfully big sturgeon over the years.

I like your leash solution... never considered attaching a pad eye to the blank like that.  I'm still searching for the perfect solution for non-trigger reel seats.  For trigger reel seats, it's hard to bet drilling a hole in the trigger for leash attachment.

Personally I don't like using a leash at all and have been going more toward extended foregrips for some engineered floatation.  There's no free lunch and there are pros and cons to any approach.

I like cork too, but for my heavier stuff, my preference has shifted to EVA foam covered with X-flocked shrink tubing.  This makes for a very durable and firm grip and is more economical than cork. 

Good stuff... it's always nice to see other rod-builders preferences for design. 

EK

EK Thanks for the tips. Means alot coming from you. I hate leashes but after getting flipped at Limekiln last year and losing one of my favorite St Croix inshore rods, I decided to get more serious about leashing. If you do decide to mount a deck loop for leash attachment, the placement is critical, has to be below where your hand grips the rod but above the area of the rear grip which is inside the the flush mount rod holder.

Scott

One more thing... for trigger reel seats, I like to use the Fuji PSSM or PSSLD seats... they are the "palm support" reel seats.  The trigger is shifted to the rear to contour to your palm when palming a reel. 

Though I rarely palm a saltwater reel, this seat has a nice big trigger that accomodates one or more holes drilled into it to attach a leash and even to serve as a hook keeper.  Also, you can get two fingers around that trigger for a power grasp while jigging or casting.  I like them a lot... some folks don't... everyone has their preferences.





EK

fishing with a leashed rod is very different from leashing for launch/landing etc.

I leash for travel, but unleash to fish. so I like a leash hole and extra floatation both and use both.

don't tell KZ, but I did zip-tie some black pipe insulation on top of the extended foregrip he put on my rod cause I have watched my rod go swimming before with a cabezon attached and ended up recovering both just fine (after swimming after my wayward bean hollow stringer which I also recovered).

I like the palm grip, one downside is that a newell 220, with the narrow clamp width, won't fit (although a 235 will).

Regarding leash attach points ... Scotty has a figure 8 ring that they bundle with their leashes.  It just slides up a reel butt (or paddle) and gives you an attach point.  Lamiglass uses something similar on their kayak rods.  Sadly, Scotty doesn't sell these individually, but I managed to bum a dozen off the Scotty rep.  I can probably get more if there is interest.

-Allen



Ahh ... here's a better picture of one from their "Bottle Lock" product.

Alan

I wish I had seen those before I added deck loops to my rods. I probably would have still gone with deck loops for 3 reasons - 1 when the leash clip is detached, the deck loop does not get in the way catch any stray line; 2 The deck loop is super strong and if I did something lame like drop my rod with a fish on, the leash would hold the rod and fish: 3 the deck loop serves as a hook keeper also.

scott

Beautiful work, Scott. And excellent description too. I borrowed a Calstar West Coast from a friend to fish rockfish last year and it was awesome! (But I was constantly worried about losing it...maybe because it wasn't mine.)
It looks like you've taken the term Tackle Ho to a whole nutha level: Tackle Pimp!
Thanks for sharing,
PK

Scotty doesn't sell these individually, but I managed to bum a dozen off the Scotty rep.  I can probably get more if there is interest.

Alan, I'd be interested because I don't remember mine coming with those.  I bought them from REI, oh 12-15 months ago.  PM me if its possible.  Thanks.

Michael

Alan

I wish I had seen those before I added deck loops to my rods. I probably would have still gone with deck loops for 3 reasons - 1 when the leash clip is detached, the deck loop does not get in the way catch any stray line; 2 The deck loop is super strong and if I did something lame like drop my rod with a fish on, the leash would hold the rod and fish: 3 the deck loop serves as a hook keeper also.

scott

I think all 3 apply to the Scotty figure 8 as well.

-Allen

Scotty doesn't sell these individually, but I managed to bum a dozen off the Scotty rep.  I can probably get more if there is interest.

Alan, I'd be interested because I don't remember mine coming with those.  I bought them from REI, oh 12-15 months ago.  PM me if its possible.  Thanks.

Michael

First 5 people to speak up will get 2 of these mailed to them.  Just PM me your addy.  Michael ... you're the first.

-Allen

EK, would you mind posting some pics of your Pac Bay XG70L? I'm curious what your dino tamer looks like.

Allen I'll take a couple still got my address???
I've been looking for something just like that